Tradeshowjoe

looks nice,bro. Funny, you took the standard kit and made it the general? I'm doing the opposite!

Sammy, Sam, Sam. That is so very nice. Thanks for stopping by my post and "alerting" me to this forum, and of course your thread. Maybe I shouldn't be using 1:1 sites for my photos. Inspiring my brother, thank you for sharing with us. By the way, what did you use for the asphalt? It's a current quest for me and yours looks, ur, uh, perfect. Yes, that's it. Perfect.

absolutely stunning! really. Thanks for the tutorial, I'll never buy a sheet of brick again.

Dragnut, um, wow. Look what I just found, right here at "home". I am humbled this is really nice... go look http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=31222

ok, I've got photos uploaded elsewhere on this site, so I know I can do it. I couldn't find "local" guidelines, so I'll try again - till I get it. Got now actual management of , ahem "for real local space". Ok That's what's up with the "photobucket thing". Going there next. Hope this helps ... EDIT to last post: the "weathering" was a tad more complicated than I made it sound, not hard though. A few shades of red rubbed here and there, some watered down grey, and the secret weapon, some gloss coat applied HERE AND THERE, in small patches. simple really. EDIT 2; thanks Scott, the sign thing is great, I've got some "diamond" patterned upholstery to do, gonna be a sign I think. Great alternative, they really rape us sometimes for sheet goods eh?

Do you want to make the walls (or was it for floor?) Or do just want brick walls? You can get scale brick walls at your LHS or online. I used Plastruct #91612, G scale rough brick cat No. ps-98. I comes a very convincing brick color to start. I just rubbed in the grey for the grout and weathered. I used to build movie sets and theme park elements; we used the same exact stuff only it came in 4' x 8' sheets. To actually make your own you can lay down a thin layer of plaster (mixed with a fair amount of wood glue) on a piece of wood painted (& dried) with wood glue ( this will prevent the wood from "leeching" the water out of your plaster mix). Before the plaster is cured completely you can go back and scribe your bricks. Don't wait too long or the corners will break off your bricks and fall off. I did this for a building built for a commercial years ago, I'll see if I can find a photo, scan it and post. Meanwhile here's a couple shots of the Plastruct brick- hope this helps. well !@#$% I need to check out this sites upload restrictions and alter some photos for you bud, give me a few...

Kowabunga Mike! What else can I say? look's great, wish I was scale and there, with some some scale beer.

Just finished this kit. It is the first kit I've completed in over 25 years! It's also the first kit I've put any real effort or detail into. I learned a lot in the process. The lowering job for example is a total "hack job". Overall I'm happy with it, considering the learning curve I completed with the model.

Hey Monty, I prime EVERYTHING, I don't know if I need too. But I do. I do a ton of work with the Metalizers and have never had a problem with anything-except that they are "finicky" about being handled. Thr sealer helps but still not durable. My best results came from clearing with Tamiya clear. Your question is about primer. Yes the Tamiya primer is nice, the white at least- it's all i've used from them. When I prime, after the sanding is all done, i polish the part with toothpaste, then use a soft nail brush and dish detergent to clean, no "bumpiness".