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Everything posted by Tradeshowjoe
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Hey guys, What's up? I love Scale Models by Chris. You should also go to E bay and look up the seller Flatheads Garage. I've bought stuff for my garage from him. Nice stuff, reasonable price and shipping.
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very nicely done bro. The temptation is always there to do more. You stopped at just the right point.
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rust & weathering beginner kit?
Tradeshowjoe replied to DrewCfromSC's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
check out this thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=32489 don't buy a thing (Uunless you need rust color paint and hairspray). And I agree the "Sophisticated Finish" is a great product as well. -
New Plamo Tsukurou video up on YouTube
Tradeshowjoe replied to Brett Barrow's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
interesting. I used "mighty Putty" to make a mold of a hubcap. Then I treid to melt solder into it. Didn't work well. I have to think that the white metal thory is most likely right. I can't believe we don't have any Japanese speaking members here. Perhaps Greg could help us as he lives in HI where there is a large Japanese speaking population. -
Wow! can't believe it's been so long since I posted an update on this one! Well You missed the messed up paint job and repair to most all the body work due to stripping said paint job. Well lemme tell you, it was a bit gut wrenching. No whining though, it's all over now. I repainted the piss poor paint white paint job with a nice one. Then I let her cure and today I wet sanded the white nice and smooth and added the clear mixed with Pearl X "micropearl". I put in a bit too much of the powder. I wanted a pearl White, and ended up with almost silver. It all good however, the color will mate real nicely with the next color (House of Kolor "Maple Nut"). It will be solid at the bottom and fade out about 3/4 of the way up the body. Thanks for checking it out. Oh and per a recent post I commented on; Feel free to tell me what you really think. If There is any comment positive or negative, just let me know, I'm new, open minded, and thick skinned (or is that fat headed?). "pearly"
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To be honest with you guys, I come to this site because it is a bit more "realistic' than the other site I spend time on. There is more of an "edge" here. At least regarding how people really feel about your work. I like that. The other site has a lot of the back patting pandering going on, sometimes it just kills me. It makes me wonder if the comments made about my stuff are realistic or not. I am a bit surprised to hear so many people here say they just "keep quiet". I always want to be called on anything I need to improve or may have missed. If not why would I spend the time to post a picture? That said, I do try to look at the profile page of the poster in question before forming an opinion and posting it. It helps to know who you are speaking to, this applies no matter the situation, subject, or location (virtual or actual) in life.
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need help washing over Alclad II
Tradeshowjoe replied to Tradeshowjoe's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
So, Steve, I went to the LHS today and you know what? No Tamya "X- SS". Or Floquill, which I expected. So I got ModelMaster Acryl "Gloss Clear Acryl". Anyway I just checked the Tamya website as I have never heard of that # type from Tam. The correct number for your product is x-"22", much different from the "super sport" model that they don't currently offer. -
New Plamo Tsukurou video up on YouTube
Tradeshowjoe replied to Brett Barrow's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
84 views no response, perhaps I should be more specific. can anyone help with the following questions? 1. What is the two part putty used for his mold when metal casting? 2. What is the metal he uses? 3. What material does he carve the gas tank out of? And thats it really. Thanks in advance for any help here. -
need help washing over Alclad II
Tradeshowjoe replied to Tradeshowjoe's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Excellent Steve, Thank You. Both are products that I haven't tried. Not sure about local availability of the Poly S, however the Tamiya should be no problem, and I like their stuff already. Will get some for sure. Thanks again. -
need help washing over Alclad II
Tradeshowjoe replied to Tradeshowjoe's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
Steve, could you be more specific? I have had no luck at all with clears over Alclad. Future destroyed the shine, and Alclads own "Gloss Klear Kote" dulls it quite a bit too. I am such a dork! I was at the dentist yesterday and kind of out of it before I went to bed. I shot a grill with Alclad "klear" and then gave it an oil wash before I passed out. I just now checked out again. It looks pretty good next to the non "Kleared" and washed chrome. Here's a photo. It's some furniture for my shop dio. Now I do remember that I was unhappy with the shine before the wash was applied, but looking at it now: I guess it's not so bad. -
I am using Alclad II chrome for all my chrome, it's great and I get nice results. The problem comes in mostly with my grills when I go for a Wash on top of the chrome. Lately I have been trying out "oil washes", the turpiniod and oil paint is a much better wash than any others I have used (so far) but it eats my chrome paint, at least when I go to clean off the excess wash. Any help out there? I haven't found a suitable clear to protect the chrome without "dulling" it quite a bit. If I could clear it first, before the wash, I am sure this would cure my ills.
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I have and use a variety of what ever works per situation. I use the Tamiya stands, I love them and I too hate their spinning action - i tape them still. I use the backwards BBQ tong looking holder IT IS GREAT! I am sure to make my own from BBQ tongs one day. But still my favorite is the homemade job in the picture. I made it from a "plant prop" -36" tall. I purchased it for less than a buck at wally-world. In it's original form it is a straight wire (thicker than a coat hanger) bent into a "loop"at the top. The way mine is shaped, when I hold it, the top sections move away from each other. If I squeeze too hard it gets tighter, not looser. Plus when I am done the whole thing gets taped to the bottom of a plastic shoe box (wally-world also around a buck)for safe drying.
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Very nice work happening here. i'd like to throw in my 2 cents worth. If you add some salt, ordinary table salt, to the hairspray before your finish color it will help in the "rubbing off" process. here's some photos of my first attempt this way: PS; I back up all statements regarding the quality of Vegas water.
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Need some input on engine bay stuff
Tradeshowjoe replied to Monty's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
I have a couple photos to share with you, -For the dipstick,(which was easier to make than photograph!) I took a small wire, stripped the end and shaped the dipstick "grab". Then a couple of drops of CA glue where the wire emerges from the insulation. Paint as you see fit, in this case I need it chrome. Drill a hole and install. As for the radiator cap, I took a small flat piece of styrene and painted it red, easy peasy. -
New Plamo Tsukurou video up on YouTube
Tradeshowjoe replied to Brett Barrow's topic in Tips, Tricks, and Tutorials
thanks for sharing Brett. Great stuff. Speak Japanese? I'm curious about some of the materials he uses in the video. -
MIcheals Clearence
Tradeshowjoe replied to gasman's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
sign in to Michaels web site. The gave me a 40 off coupon. And I keep getting 50% off coupons on my receipts from them. That makes 2 for 1 deals nice on special projects. I am planning a charger with a Viper engine. I got the Viper kit at 50% off. Then I fell in love with viper kit (nice as a Japanese kit). I was going to resin cast the engine so I could build both. Then I got another 50% off, it was cheaper to get another viper kit than to cast a second engine. Thanks Michaels. -
hey Sean, Like the others say, take your time, a bit more detail on each project. I recently started back into the hobby, having never really done any detail work (or nice completed work, I was young when I last did this). I've only finished one car in the time since I've returned (5 or 6 months), I have a few more in various stages of progress. My point being each model is a stepping stone to the next. Or sometimes each PART of a model teaches us something new for the next PART. Keep your eyes open and you will see parts and tools everywhere, even the supermarket. On line shopping is great, I use scale dreams, and Micro mark (tools) as well as others, look those two up you'll be happy you did.
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thanks jim. The tires are American Satco "Pirelli big and littles". Wheels are Detail Master "Billet Specialties Eagle". I got them with a bunch of other stuff from a fellow modeler on another forum a while back. I still need to add the knock offs and center hub "buttons", just waiting 'till I get the suckers mounted.
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that paint is, um, "beautifully horrible". I love it, love it All. I'm still a newbie, What is the "salt technique"? I really want try it in my garage.
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finally, a bit of progress to share. Got the engine in the chassis. Got most of the wiring done, believe it or not there is more yet to add. Body work is going on, slowly. No paint yet so no pics. Suspension is done, just getting the rest of the exhaust put together and ready for paint,then I can add the lower body. Wheels are only mocked up in these photos, so if they aren't just right ignore it. Hoping to get the body painted today. As I have opened the roof up I now have a bit more prep work on the inside (from the chop job). Thanks for checkin' it out. joe
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has anyone ever done this
Tradeshowjoe replied to rdgracer71's topic in Model Building Questions and Answers
I don't know about actualy "reusing" styrene. I have "stretched" my sprue (LMAO) for wire and antennaes, holding old sprue strips over a candle flame. If you need a custom part, try resin casting. I recently started doing it, and it is easy. I use "Amazing Casting Resin" easy to find and use. -
Doesn't look there's much interest in this one. That's cool. I started off with the stutter f#%$^% repost. Well if you are here THANKS. I also could've been posting more regular updates, my bad, been lazy. Here's what I've been up to; A new test for the rag top. It still may get a functional top instead, we'll see. Been focusing on the engine mostly right now. I fixed the pulleys so they are in the right spots now. I also epoxied some long extensions to the backsides to help with the belt tension. One header built. I got my carbs all painted up. Decided to leave the scoop removable to show the work so I added the pins. Working on the Fuel lines now, no shots yet. Hey, thanks again for stopping by, and letting me whine/vent a little. Joe
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'been doing a bunch of research lately on roots blowers and enginea in general. George Barris (I believe) and a few others have done similer rods using two engines, just a thought.
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Long overdue update sorry about that. Been working on her quite a bit. It's all those last minute changes the models seem to demand. With that intro, I'll start off with the most recent change. I am going to open up the roof and install a VW style sumroof.So far all I've done towards that end is make a rag top just to see how it would look. I hinged the rear door and now need to finish the body work to make the two doors appear as one. the lower body panels have been painted with Testors One Coat Lacquer "Root Beer", covered with Testors O.C.L. "wet Look" clear. Engine is mocked up and waiting for me to decide on the wiring and plumbing. I expct to do do a whole lot of it. Interior tub is done, less the steering wheel/column, and shifter. And this is the last mock up with the stuff done to date, all fitted and playing nice. I even have room to put in the radiator (all though it took quite a bit of "grinding" on the transmission!). Thanks for stopping in checkin' her out. She was back burner to start but you know...