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Scott... I think your takling about the distance between the top and bottom hinges right???.. I usually base that off of the build and how the doors are made.. the 67-69 camaro doors are curved at the front of the doors/fender area.. and let's say for example a 66 chevy 2 door is straight and not curved... I have found that the doors that are straight and have no curve are a little easier to work with.. but you kinda have to get in there and do a few mock ups to see what will work best.. as far as the hinge placement.. I try to make sure that they are spaced out pretty good.. you dont want to have them too close together.. I looked at the hinges on my 1:1 camaro and kind of used it as a rough guide line...

Hey Scott... you're right... the lip is there so that I can mount the glass up against it when I get ready to install them.. I always do this on my builds that dont have resin bodies... I always cut my own glass from clear sheet.. (the kit glass is pretty thick) I'll also add some thin styrene around rear quarter glasses and also the front and back glass also.. good eye by you to catch that..LOL.. I forgot to mention that...

I practiced opening up the grille on one from the parts box first with dremel tool (the one in front)... after I got the hang of it I did another one that will stay on the car...

Thanks for the comments fellas... and I hope the door hinge tutorial helps you guys out.... Well the chassis is all done and ready for paint... I got the trunk floor finished up, I added dzus brackets for my electronics board, I made a mount on steering column for racepak, and I finished up bracing for fuel cell mount... thanks for looking ad comments welcome....

Your build turned out great Jason... you should be proud of this one...

Looks great Ron.... turned out nice,....

I usually angle the top hinge back just a bit, on builds I do where the front end is not removable.... It makes it easier to take the doors off and pt them back on.... If the front end was removable they would be straight up like the bottom... as far as how far they need to stick out, that's trial and error test fit, trim, test fit again,, etc, etc... it's important that the holes you drill are just big enough for the staple to slide in with a little resistance.. that way they will stay in place while checking all this... It takes a little practice... but it's not that hard...

and that's really all there is to it... lol... the reason I stress the importance of the inner skin coming as close and snug up against them is because I kinda goofed on the first door and had to add some thin strips of styrene to shim it out so everything fit...... I'm pretty happy with how they turned out... I'll be using this technique from now on because it allows the door to open all the way up, and they are easier to put on and take off... thanks for looking and comments welcome... here's a few mock ups of them all finished...

I take a small piece of .062 rod and drill a hole down the center of it just big enough to fit over the staple and turn... If the hole is too big the doors will sag when open.. I then trim them down to size and sit them on the hinges.... next I add a little glue to the rod where the door will mount and install the doors, and tape them down until the glue sets... after that I take them off and add some more stronger glue.. to hold them in place permanently... here's a pic with the body off and just the door attached to give you and idea...

here's my tools I use for my hinges... Once I cut my staples to the size I need I insert them in the holes and apply some super glue to hold them in place.. here's what they look like when done... next I got to work on my door skins, but first I stuck the doors on and secured them with a little tape. Next I marked the inside of the doors with a pencil up against the sides that I've added so I'll have that to go by when making the door skins... the inner door skin will have to be as close to flush as possible to the pieces I've added so that the rod will attach to it ...

Thanks alot fellas for all the kind words... I really appreciate it.... It keeps me motivated, and encouraged.. thanks.... Well it's been a rainy weekend here so I took advantage of some free time and got to the bench... I always mounted my doors a particular way, and it has always worked fine... I make my hinges from staples.. I take a piece of .062 rod and drill a hole down the center of it just big enough for my staple to fit inside and the rod be able to turn...I then trim the rod down do the size needed and I would mount it by gluing the rod to the inner door skin....I was looking at some photos online the other night of how they are mounted and they are mounted with the hinge attaching to the outer part of the door skin/shell.. so this is what I sought after with these doors.. I'm happy with the way they turned out.. way easier... here's a few pics and I'll try to explain as I go....... as you can see on this pic there is a gap at the bottom of the firewall where it comes back at an angle.. the area where the gaps is, is right where I need to mount my lower door hinge/staple... to fix this I cut some pieces of .020 styrene sheet and first added them to the sides of firewall,,, they were cut at an angle so that the firewall would be straight up and down and not angled.. Once this was done I then cut some more pieces of .020 styrene and added them to the top and also down at the bottom in front of the firewall to mount my hinges?staples... here's a pic of one side with holes drilled and ready for the hinges...

Looking good Ron... how is that resin body??? I'm thinking about buying one and make a small tire 29 inch tire outlaw style car out of it... Is the resin pretty thick???

Thanks alot fellas... I really appreciate it... As far as the color, this may wind up being a commision build.. someone is interested.. but If I did go with orange, would the white vinyl top look good on a race car ????

I also added some styrene to both sides of the firewall......the firewall on the pro sportsman chassis is angled to get narrow as it gets close to the top of the firewall.... this is the first step in making my mounting for my door hinges... thanks for looking in and comments welcome... and here are the door jambs still have a little trimming and sanding to do to them..

Thanks alot fellas for the king words... I've got the doors cut open, added dzus tabs to the trunk and hood area and I've also made up the door jambs.. thanks for looking and comments welcome...

Ron.. yes, I am going to open the doors.. I usually do that after I get done with the cage.. the body is more rigid and I do alot of putting the body on and taking it off while building the cage... Bullhorns are the extended collectors, the come out the fenders angled up....

Thanks alot fellas... I'm glad you all like it..

here's a few more... I'm really diggin the stance on this one... think I'm gonna try and make some bullhorns for this one...

Alright fellas.. I got a few hrs. in at the bench tonight.. the cage and funny car cage is done.. I'm happy with how it turned out... the kirkey style seat is from the LS mustang drag kit,, It will work fine in here.. thanks for looking and comments welcome...

I use a lighter to make my bends Glenn... Thanks again Rick...

Thanks Ron... I appreicate the kind words... Kerry.. thanks for checkin in... Wayne and Darryl... thanks fellas... We'll all be glad to see you guys back at the bench too... Stan and Scott...thanks alot.. the input from all you guys means alot... Well fellas.. I got a little bit more done tonight... I got the x braces done on the doors, and started on the halo.. I'll let it set up over night.. I like to get my bars for my cages as close to the headliner roof area as possible... thanks for looking and comments welcome...

X2...

Here's a few mock ups with the body on...

Rick.. that's a good one... cracked me up... thanks for looking in buddy.. Alright fellas.... thanks for all the nice comments and for checking in.. I REALLY appreciate it... Well I got some time in at the bench yesterday and I made a rear wing from sheet styrene.. I also went ahead and got the wheelie bars done.. and I have started on the cage area also.. I ended up using the pieces from the kit cage that run along both side of the trans tunnel.. everything else will be scratch built from .062 styrene rod, and and few other smaller pieces of rod for bracing and stuff... I like to make the main loop in the cage first and then build from there.. I've got most of the rear section done, and I've added the bars for the funny car cage area.. next I'll make the trunk floor and finish up the trunk area... thanks for looking and comments welcome...

Looks good... keep up the good work Jason....