Lownslow

i didnt think it had this big of a flip considering i was about to redo the paint

pre cleared.

i buy them built, tear them up and turn em out. some cars wil never exist in plastic, this used to be a limo

nvm then good luck finding wheels you say diecast like its a bad thing

15$ isnt a bad price to deal with when it comes to buying Jadas for the wheels you get a lot of bonuses

test fit again, before the clear coating begins

i was there not too long ago, i had so many ideas floating that it was affecting all my builds so i stopped cold turkey, assesed what cars can be done and whats garbage. i tossed 40 some cars that were in progress but missing parts everything else got organized and zip locked if anything that helped out a lot. i also streamlined the paint booth to where i can paint 2 cars at a time. stopped spray painting and switched to full airbrush cleared a lot of spray paint can clutter.

stop using laquer thinner, get some acrylic enamel thinner, why?. because it can break the paint down better than laquer will. the ratio is 3 thinner/1 paint keep it mixed cause the pearl settles fast. i spray at 20 psi you can go higher but why bother.

after the third coat a big hair landed on the hood so i gotta start that over

Mr base 1000 Aclad airframe aluminum testors tube glue(yes i still use it) Revell 72 cutlass

tired aclad today

little bit here and theres its ready for paint, working on the interior right now, then paint then engine

pictures updated in first post, i sold the car

thanks its sort of a blurple blue is what the camera catches,nope going with the aoshima wheels painted in aclad or color matched rings.

im pretty much limited to diecasts when it comes to cool cars, this is one of them. dont know the maker but this could give a styrene a run for its money here it is after color the basecoat was HOK cobalt blue this is how much paint was used @20 psi thinned with acrylic enamel thinner.

one with the thinner i use because its a 3:1 ratio and it sprays out beautifully. i use Acrylic Enamel thinner i breaks it down better than laquer.

the lady that works there is used to me coming in all the time, i buy files there all the time

its gonna be a prostreet its sitting on a mule frame thats why its high

i have a friend thats a airbrush artist and she recommended me that i try these. never hear of these guys before but after this tryout im gonna get me some. its a self leveling acrylic pre thinned for airbrush use. these people carry it for about 10 bucks for 4oz http://www.dickblick.com/products/golden-airbrush-colors/ at first i thought i screwed up because it looked like ###### but after a 1 hour it settled and it looked great. they come in a few colors and their opaques arent bad but they have to be cleared with urethane. it costs about 10 a bottle but you wont use much since its pretty thin it dries in about 24 hours less with heat. heres how it looked on scrap glass

was gonna be box stock but i realized the hood and side trim on this car looks like ###### in scale and 1:1 so i shaved it all off, the color is gonna be nail polish, again. i know i know but for a buck it puts most paints to shame when it comes to metallic depth.

i know what youre talking about now i have it too but theyre a little small

i got the stuff the other day, its nice

thanks for the comments everyone the car is 1/24

youre gonna need a few things tape(low tack) liquid glue(tamiya,ambroid,ipc etc) knife styrene(up to you wether you want you want round or square, 0.5 size) i forgot where i learned this from but havent seen anyone practice it. so i decided to bring it up again. im using my 66 nova as reference im not installing the grill but you obviously have to measure the old grill before you cut it out to have a exact flush fit i did that by taping the grill and tracing the size. usually ill lay the pre-cut design on the table on top of the blue tape for better accuracy but too lazy for that. you start out by laying bars back to back then you start by taking every other bar ouy and move them up or down your choice. the last bar is your support bar. this is what it should look like when its all said and done i soak the grill in warm water after a hour unless you used a fast a glue. this is what you should have, measure up, trim the edges and you should be good im not mounting mine which is why you dont see the grill cut out heres how it looked on my GTO lowrider

wow, thanks, the car is actually a diecast and the ink was actually writers ink. i have a real sharpie drawn one and has proven problematic when it comes to sealing it so started over. i did it all free hand its more fun that way.