Drake69

Don't break a sweat over it. I've decided this kit is actually a trial run of sorts and am just using it to get a feel for difficult areas. I did hit the net on pics for the interior and stuff and realized that since I've gotten this far in the kit, I'll continue to build it and use it as a benchmark for another one (remember, I'm planning on getting two snap kits, at least...). The door panels did shock me though. I don't think I've found any pics that show them properly until you posted that one. I WOULD recommend that a full array of detailed cockpit pics be posted out here so that these details can be duplicated. AND I encourage your comments to help me see what needs to be changed in this kit before I build it again. Question: on the inside of the rollbar/arch, there is a rectangular panel for the bat-canopy (where the upside-down lever is). I'm betting that panel is silver, correct?

JoHan Turbine Car..... WANT!

Interior is complete except for steering wheel..... Will also need to paint the chassis underneath to make it look more natural to the car.

SINCE I AM PLANNING ON BUILDING THIS SAME KIT AGAIN, I'VE DECIDED THAT I'M USING THIS BUILD AS A "TRIAL RUN" FOR THE OTHERS. AS SUCH, FEEL FREE TO POST UP ANY COMMENTS, CONCERNS, AND ESPECIALLY DETAILED PICTURES OF THE AREAS IN QUESTION SO THAT I CAN HAVE A MORE ACCURATE DESCRIPTION FOR THE NEXT ONE. THANKS AS ALWAYS!!! Well, since no one has started one on this subject yet (as it is brand new!), I figured I'd be the first one to delve into the mysteries of this new kit. I already hit a few caveats and will make sure to post them up so that others will avoid the same pitfalls in their builds. First off, I went through the kit and sorted out the parts, then carefully grouped them as per the instructions. There aren't many parts to this kit, being the more basic of the Polar Lights Batmobiles, but there are some small parts to be aware of, like the spinners. Due to their small size, I decided to mount the wheels onto the tires and attach the spinners so that I can have the entire set put aside for final assembly. The first thing I noted was that the spinners were already decorated and just needed to be popped into the center of each wheel for storage. It was harder than it sounded. The first spinner would not go in, and it would seem like a fair amount of force was needed to attach them. I took a pin vise and carefully widened the center hole in the wheel, but it did no good. I then mistakenly thought I could "work" it gently in by soft twists until it seated itself in place, so I placed my thumb on the bat symbol, lined up the peg to the hole, and with very slight motions and gentle pressure got to work. That is, until my wife snuck up behind me... After a quick reflex jump I heard an audible pop! emanate from the part... Bad. As all can see, the wing broke off from the bat symbol, neat as you please. So, after some choice curses in languages I didn't even know I knew, I clipped off the peg in the back of the symbol and applied glue to the wing in the hopes it will not do that again once I have it on the wheel (Polar Lights will hopefully replace it though, crossing my fingers!). I reported in to the other thread here of my mishap and was prepared to snap off the other three pegs when Futurabat's suggestion of sanding down each peg came into mind. I did this for each subsequent spinner and all are now safely on their respective wheels with the one exception. Again, I'm hoping PL can come through for me.... Anyway, a last shot of the dash with silver paint on the front area. I haven't decided if I want to BMP the silver dash part or leave it like it is, so for now it'll stay like this. I did apply red highlights to several buttons and dials on the dash and have it looking even better than this pic... And I came across my second problem. Once I had a pretty detailed cockpit I started into decalling the gyro-compass on the driver's-side dash area with the small round #4 decal, which would then be followed up by the #3 circle decal. The compass was left black as per the instructions, so I did my magic and lifted the decal off the paper and got ready to place it. Except for the two black marks on the decal, the rest of it is CLEAR.... This means that without any color behind it, it won't show up at all on the compass. Argh. So, after sacrificing the tiny decal to the modelling gods (THANK YOU PL FOR INCLUDING TWO OF EACH DECAL ON THE SHEET FOR JUST THESE TYPES OF EMERGENCIES!!!), I grabbed the chrome silver paint and painted the gyro AND the radar screen on the passenger-side dash so that the decals will show up under scrutiny. Letting that dry before trying out the decals again.

I didn't know "Detroit Rock City" was in Mississippi! No, those are Michigan plates, but you DID just give me an idea for a "Mississippi Queen"!

Just completed this one, had a few issues but it wasn't too bad. All decals made by me on inkjet decal paper. This kit suffers from advanced age. The plastic MPC must've used in this one was as soft as I've ever seen, and regular liquid cement would melt it lightning quick. Even worse, if I tried to adjust a piece after it was put down, I ran the risk of glue-bombing it all over. Couple that with missing pieces, poor structure, and nearly disintegrating instructions and you have a real nightmare. The side mirrors melted when I tried to glue them on after the body was set, facilitating a need of touchup paint above Peter's head. At certain angles it's painfully noticable, but better than stripping all my hard-earned decal work and glue to respray. The deletion of the sidepipes was done because there was nothing to glue them to at all, not even a structure up to the manifold. I saw many others who built this kit left them off or added aftermarket pipes, so I'll do the same.

Next set of pics.... This is the softest plastic I have ever worked with on a model kit. Now I see where the term "glue bomb" comes from. You have to be REALLY CAREFUL applying glue one this one because it will melt the plastic faster than anything else I've seen, and if a piece is removed before it sets it will drag long strings all over the model. I was careful to avoid that but it almost messed everything up! Also, the suspension leaves a lot to be desired, especially since it was missing some key parts, namely a solid axle, torsion bar in the front, and a few other needed pieces. I was able to cobble together a few things and avoid complete disaster, but make sure the kit is complete before starting or it will quickly turn into a nightmare. It is also missing some sort of linkage to the side pipes so I'm going to have to figure out something to make it work.

I was going to say mine doesn't look like that (just got my snap kit yesterday...). Running through the kit parts now, if I think about it I'll snap a few pix. Trying to see what I need to have put together before I dip it in Future. Already see places where the flat black will need to be repainted when I do it.

1970 Pontiac Le Mans A car I grew up with, and one I want as a kit as well.

All these kits are good (put me down for a "70 Cuda!!!!), but I'd rather see "add-ons" produced enmasse that bring most of the model kits back to "factory levels". STEELIES (yes, I mentioned it in a thread earlier) and DOG DISHES should be mandatory on all kits that had them relative to when the factory rolled them off the assembly line back in the day, followed by an extra set of mags, Cragars, etc... . I mean, it makes sense since most people of that day couldn't afford Cragar SS (or other fancy-type) wheel options and had to "resort" to steelies, which helps to keep their "cool-factor" in today's modelling world. Lesser engine options, like not always having 440's or 426-hemi's in your engine bay, would also give diversity into customizing your kits, much like the extra "modding-kits" offered by Revell for their current lineup of cars back in the day. Just my $.20, taking inflation into account....

Purple Power WILL strip lacquers... but it will take quite a while to do it. I had a body sprayed with Model Master One-Coat soak in PP over a week with daily "agitation" (hot water, toothbrush, back in PP...) before it finally stripped it, but it did it. And it does work better when it's warmer.

Krylon primer will never touch another model kit of mine, and if I decide to venture into Krylon paint colors I will make doubly sure Duplicolor sandable primer will be protecting the plastic first. I almost lost a good build due to Krylon primer, even after cleaning and prepping the body beforehand. NEVER AGAIN.

I'd love to see more combinations of Dodge steelies and dog dishes in these kits, or at the very least, not as expensive (cost of steelies + cost of dog dishes + cost of wheel backs = $$$$). As many 60's/70's Dodge and Chrysler kits now out there, they should be made a standard choice now, or as a "scale-back" add-on kit. Yes, you CAN get resin casts for all three components, but they get quite expensive when buying in bulk.

Yup. This just got bumped up on my priorities build list. I've got both the COPO and LE editions and will SERIOUSLY have to consider doing this one. Wow!

Flippin' SWEET.......... That project is on hold for more funds before I order that piece, but those pics give me hope mine will look at least half as good. Which Nova kit did that come out of... the COPO, the Yenko, or the Limited Edition?

Way ahead of you. I snapped the pics before I used Tamiya Clear Red and Clear Orange to coat the silver markers. I can snap another pic of it now, just haven't done it yet. And I wanted a color scheme to really set off the bee decals. I think it worked... Thanks for the comments!!!

Right, but she was supposedly angry because the flatbed sped up to keep her from passing him, and then lodged her behind the trailer. She should have just slowed down and CALMED DOWN, and then maybe she might have avoided the board altogether. She was definitely in the wrong for following too closely.

Hello from a Circleville exile!!! IT'S ALL ABOUT THE PUMPKIN SHOW!!!!!

Read this link, it should tell you everything you need to know about problems like this.... http://pages.ebay.com/help/policies/seller-non-performance.html

That's pretty scary, but NOTHING compares to this one.... http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_ySqb5fN19Y Woman was angry she couldn't pass the trucker, so rather than slowing down and letting him by she grabs her cellphone and records it. Vid still makes me jump... every time.

My latest finished project... Second set... Last set... I had to make myself a set of heater hoses and rerouted A/C line when the dog so thoughtfully "helped" me with my build, but it was a great kit overall. Highly recommended.

I have the Paashe HB-2216 spray booth with galvanized walls and flooring, and it is incredible. It's easy to clean, swapping out filters is a breeze, and there's lots of room for a Tamiya stand. My only beef with it is it needs its own lighting somehow inside because of how dark it gets in the back, but a good spotlamp behind your seat does help a lot. NOTE: check Amazon every so often and it will pop up from time to time on sale for a little over $110 or so before shipping. Makes it COMPLETELY WORTH IT THEN....

A paint brush is all you need to apply LDF onto the decals, so you'll want to get a new soft one for the job. For really easy application it needs to be like the one in this pic, dead center of the brushes.... It should be long, flat, and level. This will allow for an even stroke when coating your work.

My end results. Using MM One-Coat "Blazing Black" and naming the car "Black Diamond"... Well, all in all it's not too shabby. The reason for the "alligator" black in the decal is due to the low level of ink and sub-quality of my inkjet printer. Everything else, sizing, sealing, shaping, and mounting of these decals went off without trouble. I DID find out that it's better to NOT use MICRO SET on the body due to the difficulties in sliding the decals in place, rather just moisten the area with water and apply. Then once the decal is positioned use Micro Set to seal it in place. Note to self: Laser decal paper and Kinko's laser printers next time. Also, I changed the timeframes in my lead post to 2 + hours, not 12 hours for both ink drying and LDF drying. 12 hours is unnecessary.

I got this off of eBay for real cheap and wanted to do something fun with it, so I ran through my head all the '70s possibilities... 1: STAR WARS - Need a bigger van 2: Dragon, Wizard, Magic, etc... - Need a BIGGER VAN 3: Atari 2600 - Nah, maybe later 4: Rock band - Needs to be iconic.... Hence, this is what I came up with... This being a test of making my own decals, it didn't come out TOO badly considering I had low ink and was using an inkjet printer. But whatever my next project like this is, I'll be going to Kinko's and using their higher quality printers for my stuff.