Mike Kucaba

I think I'll post a pic of Arrowheads '63 GP..... A picture is worth...

I don't know, I have not seen the set on 'bay. I dealt directly with Manny (Craig). I saw a link to his site here and saw the wheels there.

Your close enough to make two great shows that I miss sorely. John Carlisles show now in Sylvania OH and the Detroit Area Auto Modelers' show. I think it moved in the last couple years. It was inWarren MI.

Go to Google,Click on images, Type in 1950 Ford F1. You will get plenty of inspiration

I got two sets of very nicely done 19 inch Chevy Rally wheels form VCG resin. Craig was very pleasant to deal with, utilizes Paypal, and does very nice casting. A BIG Thumbs up :D

Yup It was SAE #69. Wayne did a build-up of the Aardvark fastback transkit for the Mono vette roadster. Curiously, there was an article by Wayne a couple of issues earlier where he DID cut the top off a late model Mustang ertl diecast and built a replica of his own car.

I'm into 1/43 and read all the build ups by Wayne Moyer and others. I seem to remember a trans kit to convert Mono's roadster into a fastback build up. The memory is what it is and I think the trans kit was by Andy Martin.

I doubt it. Either a 1/32 scale,or their interpretation of the "coupster". I suppose it could've been a '38.

Here's what inspired me to do the model that Flintstone eventually cast: http://www.carnut.com/show/99/all/all132.jpg That and the article in Car Model (the annual,not the regular monthly) I'd sure like to see ONE built,as I never finished mine but did get a good start on one of the resin copies.

If they are just primers then throw them away. I only really bother to decant unique colors.In your case these cans were cheap so not much loss. If you decant,Shake and warm the cans then with the nozzle on, use one of those ratcheting clamps. Put the clamp on with the can upside down! Find a convenient place to hang this setup and walk away for a bit. This usually gasses out most of the propellant. Now you can reasonably safely tear the cap off the top. I use a large pair of side cutters. There may be a little hissing sound so toss a rag over that and just don't pick up the can at this time. This is the best way I have found to decant such as you describe,where it is too thick to remove thru the nozzle.

Hear hear!! If we have a vote the antique brass metallic.

Nice work on the car & the grill!

I believe there is a dohc ford engine in the reissued Tiger shark. There was one in the original issue of the Dream Rod.

My favorite marquee has always been one at a dry cleaner: " WOMEN WHO DROP OFF THEIR CLOTHES RECEIVE SPECIAL ATTENTION"

Get the conversion from Shawn Carpenter. Look him up on Google. I don't believe he has a website.

I've found a couple months in the Purple Pond helps.

Wow! No negs on the too short doors Looks like a great start to a great build. FWIW,the chopped top versions give you some sides(minus windows) and the rest. Modelhaus cast the sides & some other parts to allow a build of the Country Squire. I do like the way you've done the trim. Hope this isn't hijacking a thread,but here's a link to two of my ranchero's in the pile. http://s1189.photobucket.com/albums/z421/mkucaba/57%20Ford%20Rancheros%20Revell%20kit/

Also remember that PP or CSC work better warm.

I think you did a fine job on building an older kit. I wasn't aware there were fit problems. (never built it).

Every chemical that everyone mentions will strip paint. Pp and SC has more uses for me however. I can soak the entire new kit (except chrome) trees and all before I start the build. I soak my resin parts to clean off any foreign matter be it mold release or whatever. It will strip acrylics. I can use it to clean around my house and car. I just view easy off as old school. In the sixties it was discovered that model airplane fuel would strip paint. I wouldn't be using it now just as I don't use a lot of older technology products in my everyday life.

That's fantastic and you even did a 45 degree angle. If you wanted to expand on this you could drill holes at 90 and 45 degrees for various size tubing,as long as you could get a near perfect intersect of the two holes,you would only have to insert the drill in one and the tubing or rod in the other, and run the bit thru.When the tubing or rod is pulled from the block you would have two fishmouthed ends.

Sometimes, Pre thinning paint is a disaster. I don't know about Tamiya,or any of the acrylics. If you do go this route,I suggest Tamiya's thinner only.

The Purple Pond Is either Purple Power, or Super Clean. Both are sold at auto parts stores Wal-mart and the like. In my 10 years or so of using both, PP or SC has stripped all manner of paints. There have been a few that left stains in BARE plastic,but most can't stand up to it. 91% alcohol(or 99%) can be had at most CVS and the like. It works very well on Tamiya lacquer. You can also use it to wipe of mold release on plastic and resin bodies. Lately,if I encounter a real tough one I use Dawn Power Dissolver,an oven cleaner.

Nice clean build. Stands out today as well as any.

Bummer on the alergy Bernard. Some folks have a extreme reaction to latex. Some resin stuff will really set it off. I don't much about how the alergy works, but if it's airborne, could a respirator, a vent to outside help?