Mike Kucaba

Yeah I just found out Crown Royal which I have been buying regularly(for medicinal purposes) for $20,JUMPED to $25 after the first of the year.

I don't know your skill level,heck it could be better than mine,I'd do a trial build with some kind of water soluble glue.

One of the best tips I've seen recently was Truscale's application of a clear coat over every different color.This protects the previous color IF the subsequent colors don't lay down like you wanted. Also,try and spray AWAY from the tape edge,not into it. Using Lacquer is probably easier to to do due to it's faster drying time. Airbrushing enamel &/or lacquer helps immensely in success of any multi-color paint work.

Also look closely at stuff in blister packaging. I found some killer bubbles/domes,that when filled with red tinted epoxy made some great tailights.and some flashlight bulbs have neat looking shapes formed over them.

I could see keeping this stuff around for the really tough removal jobs, after all the others have failed or did their best.

Crown Royal and a Fuente.

I looked at Pat's comment as a heads -up on Al's products. What would be the alternative? Crappy casting at your door 2 hours later,or Fantastic quality with a longer than usual(?) wait? I'll Take door # 2 AND..... It's about time we clearly define a business and a hobby endeavor. Just because money is exchanged,does not always make it a business.

I'm retired at 62. My most important tasks of the day are: shoot pool with the old salts and listen to their stories. play shuffle board with the old salts (and ladies) and listen to their stories. Go to Breaksfast at 7:00 a.m. with the old salts and listen to their stories. I SEEM to have plenty of free time but not really.

Nice stuff! I've thought about the Corvette cove on other cars,I have a '51 fleetline OTB..maybe The van is unique.Another unique twist is thw suicide 4-door "57 Chevy and that '58 Impalas' color scheme is great. Light pea soup green?

I like them for some tasks,but get the stuff from K& S metals. The sheets are larger & a better price.

The twelfth of never

Yes it is. I've stripped dozens of parts and models using it and sometimes the glued together parts just fall off in the tub. In my experience,it works better warm,say between 70-80 degrees F. I gey mine at auto parts stores, K-mart, and maybe Wal-Mart.You could also look for Purple Power too.

Fabulous show. Miss vending there a whole bunch.

Because the first rule of model building was ignored! Patience!

I got the CD too! After almost getting the entire set in magazine form The Cd is better, You can print out the articles you want and it's easier to read. A BIG thumbs up to Curt and the original publisher for getting this done.

Make the oops deeper,and fill with a sliver of styrene and CA.

It smells that way because basically that's what it is. For really tough joints you use mineral spirits. DON'T soak the part,just try and keep the joint wet(damp) with the stuff. It does work,but very slow. Don't expect mint plastic in the glued area though.

It's been a while,but I thought it was the craft paint aisle

Great job and awesome imagination.

When ever I get built-ups and glue bombs they usually go right into the Super Clean for a refreshing,warm soak.

I've bought flocking at Hooby Lobby. It's in a totally different area and comes in big bottles by a company named Plaid.They also have a tinted adhesive for most of the colors offered. If you want a online source, google Donjer Products. They are Flocking crazeee

Oh,You'll probably end up getting several brushes eventually,but Donn's suggestion is great. I think that's kinda high priced for that brush though. I'd look around online. Have they gone up that much ?

Yeah,but then you have to buy and eat KFC. Tastes like chicken!! (but what is it really) 'jes kiddin' eat it myself occaisionally.

If you look at the contrast between the valve cover on the left side,and the intake manifold,I'd say they were a dark color,maybe even black wrinkle finish. Just an opinion.

As with my experience airbrushing Tamiya paint.I strongly suggest using the manufacturer's own thinner.I tried all the "alchemy" and found theirs to be the best. As an aside,and because of this, I don't airbrush Tamiya much. I would like to try Val's acrylic-Polyurathan primer? (their spelling,not mine). Anyone have a good online source for this?