Mike Kucaba

I used to use a dehydrator back in IL .Now that I'm in AZ there is not that much need for it. There were plans for a drying oven in one of my FSM back many years ago,and I may build one of those for the chilly winter months. I'd like to have something big for large scale,and to keep the dust off.

How in the name of honesty did you get in trouble HERE? And How were you burned? There always is two sides to every deal.

And I'll bet dollars to donuts that if they would package their lacquer in 1 or 2 Oz. bottles for airbrushing they wouldn't have any problems.

I'd post the traders full name(at least the one they post with if they put that in at all) and then lock it so the forum doesn't explode. Failing that, maybe a PM to Gregg to suspend the person until the dispute is somehow resolved.

I'm not trying to be a wise guy,but... A long time ago when billett aluminum parts were just coming in to play, John Buttera was showing off his latest rod and someone asked him how he made the outside rear view mirror. John was said to have replied, I took a piece of aluminum and cut away everything that didn't look like a mirror. Fwiw the amt challenger boot is incorrect, Google in images 1970 Dodge Challenger convertible and you'll see what I mean.

I USED to use micro-balloons with thick C-A but didn't like how hard it becomes to sand. I've switched to 30 minute epoxy when I think that this type of filler would be better. As I recall, either baking soda or baking powder can give off noxious fumes when mixed with C-A.

Might be in the recent re-issue of the Dodge charger general Lee?

I'd look at some models that HAVE I.R.S and gather some info from them. Some kits that have them are: Testors Smoothster It's now being referred to as a '37 Ford It also has some similarity in the frame in the pic. Some issues by Revell like John Buttera's Coupe and a sedan delivery has a Jag rear. You could start with a Ford 9 - inch rear housing,some big disc brakes and then fab the rest. If you are that close to the car you should have no trouble getting good reference.

Your such a breath of fresh air.

http://www.radioshack.com/family/index.jsp?categoryId=2032239

Years ago I bought about 25 lbs of sheet styrene from AIN plastics They are all over the U.S. I got several sheets of .020,030,040,and 060. I still have a lot left. I've also seen several vendors selling plastic sheet on ebay. Honestly, doesn't anyone know how to search for anything concerning this hobby? People come on asking for this or that and then excuses like "I don't do ebay,or mail order or I don't have a credit card.

And then of course you could just google small coil springs and get.... http://www.centuryspring.com/Products/assortments.php

This was worth it just for the tip on hose clamps!! Well done

I'd concentrate on building/carving /shaping the form first. It's going to have to be razor smooth so it forms like glass. You might be able to make a reverse mold,by using the form upside down and pushing it thru a piece of heated clear plastic thru a hole cut in some hardboard the shape of the bubble. Have you looked at bubble tops from other cars?

That double action airbrush from HF looks exactly like my Badger Anthem,which is a very good brush.

I'll put it like this: If you can swim in shallow water there is no reason that you can't swin in deep water. All the tips I mentioned takes a considerable amount of the complexity of using a double action AB. It's a moot point because most times after you've bought your first AB you won't stop there.

I'd go with the double action and here's why. The little screw looking gizzy in front of the trigger sets the amount of paint(needle retraction) of the brush.All you have to do is screw that in to make a positive set for the amount of paint you want the needle to allow in and just push down on the button which lets in the air. You can make it even more stable by wrapping a ruuber band behind the trigger as a back-up. When you get comfortable with airbrushing,you can back-off the screw,and remove the rubber band and use the double action.

The Iwata I mentioned doesn't have a tank. If you have a compressor with out a tank,you can eliminate the pulses between cycles by adding on a filter jar and a pressure regulator. That being said,some airbrushes use more air volume than others. My Paasche VL uses much more air volume than others that I have and I usually use this with an oiless tank type compressor.

That compressor doesn't look like my Iwata whisper jet and I doubt that it is identical. The Iwata is an oil filled type of pump, and the HF one is oiless. I also don't see anything about the instant on feature the Iwata has when you depress the button to start spraying. I have nothing against looking for inexpensive solutions to acquiring equipment for the shop,but let's compare apples to apples.

Excellent examples of the craft!!

I'd avoid the Amt '59 vette,and see if you could get the Revell '59 vette for about 15.00.

Try a tip& needle change and don't experiment on the model,use some scrap plastic or spoons to test. I've never been able to get Future to spray to my liking without thinning it with some denatured alcohol. HTH

What bench?

Styrene is the plastic that generally refers to what most of the models are molded in. I'd suggest you spend some time going thru the "on the bench" section to get some ideas of what can be done.In Lowering a car,you raise up the item that the wheel/tire mounts to,usually a spindle (front) and axle(rear).This is a very simplistic description,and some research will help you understand it better.

The best way I have found to do PE wire wheels is look at wooden drawer knobs at a home center or craft store, You can use these as forms when you want to form the basket dish. I give credit to Wayne Moyer who showed this method in a couple magazine build-ups. I have knobs that are rounded and concave and one that appears to be for a handle.