Mike Kucaba

Very nicely done!

Or you could test spray on a plastic spoon?

"True tungsten carbide cutters in a Dremel are completely unaffected by Zamak Thanks Art, after 30 years using them in lathes,mills and drills,you'd think I'd know what a carbide cutter was. Maybe you have an idea as to what I was cutting that damaged them?

NICE SAVES!! Especially in that scale.

Light coats are almost always better than heavy coats.

Fabulous build and great results. Interesting that you mention two products that I use, the Vari-prime and Micro-balloons. Try mixing the balloons with 30-minute epoxy in place of the CA glue for a filler.

I ruined some of my best carbide bits working on that Zamac (sp) stuff that qualifies as "diecast metal" White metal works very easily with hand tools such as files,emery boards and the usual stuff we use on plastic.

I see the rims of a lot of models "chipped" at the sprue point and the best method to me is to use a nail clipper. I got the toenail clipper with the magnifier and light at Big Lots for $2 and it cuts great,and is curved to boot. For chrome I use Tamiya acrylic "smoke".

Kit Car?

Check the suppliers to the ship &/or military. I see some ship railings PE that looks similar to that. Also the model railroaders have that stuff too.

Well I sure am sorry I missed it ,work health and ... can sure mess up the best laid plans Next years for sure,made every one since I moved here in Aug. 2008 and it looks like it just keeps getting better & better.

Use a liquid masking for the chrome trim ring and center cap. Check that the masking liquid doesn't damage the chrome on a scrap piece. It's still difficult if you don't have a steady hand. Maybe coat the entire wheel with the mask and cut out the painted area and remove the masking from that area.

How Much for the cups.? Seriously though some nice looking parts there.

I've always liked seeing jet vapor trails in the horizon shots in Westerns, set before the Wright Brothers time.

C'Mon Pat how about some proof? "It was not made, mixed or anything by House Of Kolor. The Valspar name was licensed for this use." Yet it's printed right on the box! "Trust but verify"

Sorry,Korbel Brandy for this dudes soul. 2 snifters full. Groovy Man!

Fascinating captain. I dig the fuel filler,the paint, oh heck. the whole shebang.

"Valspar and HOK did not package or distribute that "hobby" attempt at an HOK labeled paint. Nor did Valspar package or distribute any of the other products in that failed marketing attempt, i.e., plastic airbrush, bottled paint, diecast models, or other assundries." Printed on the bottom of the box of Kustom Kolors(I assume that's what we are discussing) is: 2005 The Valspar Corporation. All rights reserved.Manufactured & Printed in the U.S.A. Manufactured by: VALSPAR 210 Crosby St. Picayune,MS 39466

I'm a fabriscratchercator.

You can go to almost any paint supply store for professionals in any large city and buy real HOK paint. And FWIW,I also see real HOK paint on clearance racks at my local paint supply store.(Space Age paint in Mesa). The other paint that was described is a type of enamel and I have shot it on some test spoons. It was packaged and sold by VALSPAR,the parent company of HOK. Their faux pas was to not include the proper reducer in the packaging,and probably trying to make a killing capitalizing on the HOK name.

That would work well,and for the purist/restorer,cast some covers to go around the tubes for that stock look.

No Erik and I need to start doing more of that. I suspect that this product is/will be on a rack at local paint/automotive stores,as it is packaged in a hang tag type of container. The package is labeled Stage 4 so I'd be interested to see all the stages myself. Stage 4 is the last stage of this abrasive according to the package.

Okay. It's called 3M Trizact performance paper. I tried it thru employee/retired sales and the sale was on a sheet of 3000 grit "paper". It's more like a thin sponge approx.4x9 inches. It is recommended to use on clear coats before compounding,and to use it wet. I tried it on a '59 Buick that is sprayed white and has been cleared for a while.It's also had some flaws from being bumped around so I cut a small square of it and started rubbing. It turned the finish to a nice even sheen. It turned out great,and as I was drying off the body with a soft baby diaper,I could see a gloss coming back up. I think I'll clear the body once more and see how smooth it looks. Anyone here in the autobody trade use this abrasive?

Fabulous! I have my two kits on order and on the way to do this bash.

Interesting,didn't know long rams were available on the 383, and what could a really good CNC company do regarding replicating this.