Mike Kucaba

Not spraying it ,but I've used it by brushing it on and sanding after a few days of curing.

You can paint model cars and use techniques that are used 1:1 cars such as tack rags to mitigate dust problems. Also the trick of wetting down the area where you will be spraying helps too. I've also tried grounding in the area to attract dust. In the end, though sanding & polishing is the way you get the super smooth paint you see here whether there is a dust speck or not.

Heck,If I could get the wire,rod or whatever to conform relatively tightly.I'd use an acrylic clear to hold it in place.

Does anyone know if there was any work bench type coverage of this car while being built? It doesn't look tooo hard to duplicate,and R&R makes a '54 Plymouth as a starting point. Was it sectioned?

Aleenes Tack-it -over -and over. It's a type of white glue that dries clear and remains tacky. Dip the end of a toothpick,fine wire, straight pin etc and let it dry,then touch to the part.

I think I'd try and use beading wire or some thin solder,maybe stainless or soft aluminum rod.

Depends. Sometimes I have seen painted parts and can't recall where they came from,but after stripping the paint the plastic color helps. I have a hard time though with all the "kitschy" kits that MPC modeled aimed at kids in the late 60's- 70's.

Yeah might as well, Your complaint isn't playing out too well. It never fails to amaze me how a modeler as a buyer comes on to a model forum,jumps up & down about being abused on ebay by some filthy stinkin' seller and when the facts are really known can't admit that he/she was wrong. (in before the loc?)

Yeah Nick,but yer an old skool kind of guy

"shipping that this guy was charging to the US is exorbitant." This thread is starting to read like SB1070... What part of ships to U.S. doesn't someone understand? THIS SELLER DID NOT WANT TO SHIP INTERNATIONALLY IN THE FIRST PLACE!!!SHEESH

Yeah, I'm still in awe over those that can get that mix to work. Another filler that I use is micro-balloons mixed into 30 minute epoxy.

I don't usually build NASCAR stock cars,but that build was a real tour de force!! Excellent work!!

I did some further searching and found an even more detailed article in CAR MODELER 2002. This is the one that showed how to bend /make a roll bar jig and other tips about using the '60 sunliner chassis.

I used to work/repair a type of pad printer.It used a heat sensitive foil,and little numbers or letters held in a block that was heated, would press on the foil and imprint a date code. It was made by a company named Kingsley. I see them sometimes on ebay in industrial sections.

Politely tell the seller that this was a mistake on your part,and ASK for a refund. I honestly don't understand all the angst(?) over ebay. I have over 1100 transactions,100% positive feedback, and actually have ASKED if I could bid on items with the stipulation that I would not be able to pay until a certain date,many times way beyond ebays rules.!

OOPS! The article was in a Car Modeler special edition 2001.

There was an excellent article in a back issue of SAE about just this swap,even covered how to adapt the '60 chassis to the old tool Ford (I used it for a Mercury). It's not exactly a drop on,but if your looking to do a high-detail build this is it. Even had a roll bar tutorial with it.

WOW! Ten gallons. Don't know if it will strip paint from models,but your set for a while if it does.

I think Lime ice over gray or black might approximate that color. It would be best to see it in person and up close to be sure.

3M Bondo brand professional glazing putty w/catalyst. Squadron white putty and or Tamiya's ,and Magic-Sculpt.

Doesn't the seller offer a thinner? Seems strange.

"Elvis had no input as to the design. It was used in Clambake in 1967, but it was Bill Mitchell's (1959) design and personal ride before that." Of course Elvis had no input into the design, I was referring to the ability to get to use it in the movie. Also according to a book I have on concept Corvettes thru the years,Larry Shinoda did the design for Mitchell.

Set the pressure at what ever you are comfortable at,and how well the paint is spraying.The paint should be properly thinned (you'll get a LOT on this ). I thin mine as thin as I can and yet get good coverage. Acrylics dry very fast so usually a low pressure is preferred. If you are going to use acrylics a lot,get some additives like Slo-Dri and Flow-aid.Check acrylic products on-line.

http://shop.hobbylobby.com/store/item.aspx?ItemId=174552 Here's another thing that I don't get. I've used a tank type compressor for years and in the humid midwest,and the only moisture defense I had was one coming out of my tank before the regulator. And I never had to drain it,even when I painted while it was raining.

If I can send something that will survive in a padded envelope.I'll do it. If it requires a box,I'd like the shipping covered. It does help to have an idea that the person needs the part to finish a model.