62rebel

you know, this is one of the best Jeep kits i can remember.... and you've done a darn good job on it. i hesitated to buy any of the Pink Poison issues because i wasn't sure Revell had left well enough alone! gonna hafta scrounge up a couple now...

the design may look fussy but it's strong as battleship armor and easy to work on... two strong selling points for frugal owners.

well; it depends a lot on what kind of material the actual headliner is made of. if there's any molded-in detail to follow, like support rod lines, etc, that makes the job a little simpler. the most basic way is to layer strips of masking tape inside the roof to make a pattern, then transfer that pattern to a final headliner, made of one, two, three pieces of tape that follow the actual pattern of the 1:1. then, just paint it with the color of your choice. you'll have to make allowances for window glass clearance, of course. sometimes, it's easiest to simply paint the inside of the roof and leave it at that, depending on how much of the interior can be seen, how clearly, etc. i always paint the inside of the roof; i have made a couple of insert pieces from craft foam to fill in the space left in an "old style" one-piece window unit and along the sides. getting rid of ejection pin marks is one key to beautifying a headliner presentation.

i had the Rustoleum primer issues recently; i don't know why the one job went wobbly and another went a-okay.... the F350 simply would not dry, the primer would actually smear when touched; while the '55 gasser dried hard as glass and now has a beautiful coat of lacquer and clearcoat on it. there is a one-part epoxy Rustoleum, it is definitely not good for doing models as it is thick and not "hobby friendly"... it creates horrendous overspray and it stinks like hogan's goat.

AMC used rather old technology even in the late '70s; then again, it was bought and paid for and it WORKED, so why go changing? nobody has ever kitted a realistic AMC front suspension, but it's not too difficult to replicate if you've got some junked GT500 kits or the like. IIRC the Pacer kit had a one-piece front crossmember that had the rack and pinion molded into it.... now, THAT's simplistic.

great to see you're able to do so well AND that you have such an excellent support team..... bravo to the both of you!

AMC made a big deal about factory rustproofing in the time these were new. they weren't cheap cars when they were new, either; that made it tough for them to compete with the "big 3" in sales. road salt and neglect will destroy ANY car....

welcome aboard and bravo on a clean build!

will be getting at least two Gremlins to build now. AMC will be taking up a larger portion of display space once i get a new shelf built... now my Matadors won't be lonely.

anybody got an idea how well the Pacer six will fit in the Gremlin, since i have two of those, looking for a kit to put them in (not BOTH at the same time, mind)....

wicked looking Charger!

pretty nice! can't begin to count the Ford van kits i've done and lost....

as far as i know, it's always been a small block with weiand hirise and other goodies. one of the high points of AMT, imho.

i like your build but i still can't understand Revell insisting we use radial tires on "old" rods.

dear birthday wish fairy.... one Routemaster bus, please.....

only the Coronet-specific MPC parts are '70's issue; the majority of the kit is from the '90's intro of the AMT RoadRunner. it's got the look down pat, though. i'm substituting a set of Keystone Klassics for the stock styled wheels, though....

it has to be the AMT '53 F100. or the '79 F350. or the '50 F1. maybe it's the Courier.... or the Ranger...........

it sounds to me like you've removed the parts from the sprue (tree) for painting; i leave 90% of the parts attached to the sprue for painting UNLESS they're part of a larger assembly like an engine, or seats. most engines are molded with the transmission attached; they're seldom the same color so they can be held and painted with gator clips. once you remove the part from the sprue, then it's a simple matter of touching up the bare spots. i also spray paint a large portion of similar parts on the sprue; suspension and chassis parts, wheel backs, exhaust, etc in black or dark gray even if i'm going to paint them a different color further on, as this will give the parts a "metal" base color versus a "bare plastic" color.

i'm wondering why testor's cement in the red tube is "crappy"... it can be the best thing in the world for lots of jobs, as long as you don't use too much of it or expect it to set as fast as superglue, which it will NOT do. if it's applied too thickly it will make a mess of things, get onto outer surfaces where it's not wanted and also onto your fingers. i prefer to use liquid solvent cement and a brush; fit your trimmed parts together and let the cement flow from the brush into the joints. let those set up and clean the edges, and those parts will look as if they never were separate pieces. i still use and will continue to use testors enamels; they're easy to use and dry fairly quickly; they thin easily and don't show brush marks if you take your time. i also don't have to worry about whether they will react to another coat of paint over them.

my Aoshima MM kit is half-finished in the box.... had it for four years now.....

simplicity in itself, at least to the eye! very nice build.

Bill Geary did an awesome job building one of these. his thread is here... somewhere.

after doing what i consider to be some heroic repair work to a gluebomb '79 F350 body, i gave it a coat of primer in preparation for a color coat of Duplicolor Auto touch up paint..... let's see.... that was Wednesday. the primer showed no inclination for drying or even sticking to the plastic even today, Monday. dropped the whole shebang into my stripper tub and cleaned it off. what kind of primer? Duplicolor. i wouldn't even have bothered but the darn kit plastic is red. so, since i was stripping paint, i dunked a Shelby Daytona kit my wife got for me down in Florida, which was brush painted black.... THAT was some tough going to get off.

it's odd, again; that the Nomad still has witness marks for the guidelines for cutting the rear wheel wells out, and the '55 Sedan does not have them.....

ummmm... the outer rear fenders on a Cameo pickup are fiberglass and do not rust.