62rebel

all epoxies generate heat, polyester resin as well. it's not so much as would damage anything and if you keep a small fan blowing over it, you should have no trouble. JB weld is fine, lots of modelers use it. it's almost thin enough to brush on...

looking fantastic so far... but, then again, that is, without doubt, my favorite kit.... i have around twenty five of those in various configurations. not ONE has a chopped top.... haven't mastered that yet. sectioning, i have down to a science.

a Revell-Monogram convertible and an AMT "Street Machine".... they're almost exactly the same size and proportion.... that didn't happen much in the old days. kinda odd that AMT marketed that version as a "Street Machine" when they really didn't offer many performance options in the kit, but that was the mid-90's after all.... the Revell kit is very detailed but in their arena, they seldom offered any optional versions. the AMT chassis has larger, squared off rear wheelwells, possibly to accept drag slicks without cutting. there are parts missing from the AMT kit that i do remember; there used to be a raised tube axle for the front end. there is only a tube crossmember in the parts count now. i'm pleased with both kits for different reasons....

that's not a bad idea, just pack it up for later. it just might come in handy as a school project, you never know....

i've built a couple of the '66's using the "new" '68 for a chassis; it was fairly easy to slice the bottom out of the '66 bucket and fill in the area between it and the chassis.

makes me fell kinda like Jim Phelps.... your mission, should you choose to accept it, is to finish this kit without breaking more than 25% of the parts. as always, the secretary disavows any knowledge... mission accepted! now; if my freaking COLD would let me do more than one simple task before either sneezing my rump off or having to drain Lake Mead into a hankie.... woof.

it can be tough to "get into" an unfamiliar build; maybe if you read up on the history of the plane and it's role in ending WWII? watch a movie that tells about them, possibly. it's always fun to be able to talk about what a model represents when you're showing it off.

great start; i wouldn't fuss about the rear wheelwells on this one.... that promo plastic is THICK and hard! getting the hood open will be tough enough!

those of us with some years behind us remember the MPC styrene from the 70's... soft, to the point where you couldn't easily sand the stuff! it would also "peel" away from cut areas, where you'd remove parts from the sprue... i almost never modified an MPC kit because of that. so what, you may ask, since MPC isn't around any more? because, in my building of my latest trade, a Model King reissue '79 F350, i've encountered styrene almost of that composition! the last time i built a regular issue F350 (out of a Destroyer kit), the styrene was rigid and tough (and RED) and i've already cracked a piece of my "new" one (aaaargh) ..... i noticed when i popped together a Polar Lights snap kit (it still needed gluing in several areas) that the styrene (possibly ABS?) was tough and "plasticky"... almost like polyethylene like toy soldiers. is there a switch being made in the formula for some reason? bad batches, possibly?

some filler or hi-build primer would take care of the post ghosts; you can stop the hood scoop outlines sometimes by backfilling the "cut lines" with super glue and styrene. it's tough to stop that ghosting because some paints are very "hot" and the plastic actually melts from the solvent in it. also, let your paint coats gas out adequately. too many coats of "hot" paint make it nigh impossible to remove those lines. some builders spray automotive primer into a cup and let it gas out a little (let the solvent evaporate some) and brush paint it over spots and into cut lines. with most of the solvent out, it doesn't etch into the plastic as badly.

outstanding! somebody find these guys some capital and a factory.... around the corner from my HOUSE.

isn't there a Revell rep on this board who can speak up for their decision to release such a substandard piece of ancient dross? someone who can explain why a company with such a reputation for quality would fail to follow up on any question of their product accuracy? or could we ask Heiko to take some scale measurements and compare them with the data readily available online? or even request that Airfix tool up a completely new kit with opening doors and full detail..... right.

perhaps Heiko would indulge us with a set of pics that might illuminate the supposed scale discrepancy or put it to bed? it's simple enough to compare tire size, as the Taxi is only known to use one size?

you should, at least, go to the tower and carry along a scale ruler, and make a big show of taking measurements. if anybody ask, tell them you are building a 1:1 scale model of it back home.

nope; '66 is a different bodystyle altogether. you're better off backdating a '79 (not easy to do).

i don't go for the body; too many conflicting contour lines and the bubble skirts don't do it. i do like the fins.

if it's really old styrene it could have been stark white when new, and simply went yellowish with age. i have a few relatively ancient bits that look almost gold..... post up another pic with a scale/ruler next to it.

done deal; i have both on the way from Spotlight. the convertible will not go to waste..... it just won't be the detailed kit it was born as.

it has that platform chassis and the same style interior bucket as the old AMT '57; okay for what it was in '65 or so but clearly inadequate for a modern detail build. for a period style ( as in, built in that period) build it's fine.

the LHS has the convertible in stock, i just need to get an AMT sedan for the shell, then. the rest is in my parts boxes.....

FE is the legendary big block that started life in '58 as a 332, and eventually evolved into the 428, with branches becoming the SOHC and 427 sideoiler. it was the natural evolution of the Y-block that it replaced. the 385 series took it's place as the preferred torque powerhouse for trucks and fullsize cars, with the larger muscle cars getting their own versions. all FE's look more or less alike; no other Ford engine looks quite like a 385 series. the recent Revell Torino engine is a beauty.

i didn't check; is the Revell '55 Convertible from the new tooling or the old 1/24 Monogram tool?

i hadn't kept current on the Revell tri-fives and wasn't sure they'd done a '55 sedan.... well; at least the AMT kit as i remember it had decent proportions, even with the aged chassis plate.

looking for who has the best kit for doing a car similar to the "Two Lane Blacktop" '55.... needs to be the two door sedan body, not a hardtop, and in 1/25th...... wondering if the excellent chassis from either the "new" AMT '57 or the new Revell '57 will be a natural fit inside the AMT '55 body..... or, even, which one would be a better donor kit, as i know that the AMT '55 uses the '55 Nomad chassis plate, very similar to the simplified AMT "old" '57 BelAir kit.... i searched the kit reviews and couldn't find a Revell '55...

maybe, just maybe; a very very thin, flourescent orange pinstripe along the upper fender edge, across the front end, all the way to the rear, then looping down and going around the tail panel? just thinkin'.