Mr. Show

This is really dependent on the strength of the can, so people should be careful. I've had a bottom pop while shaking just from putting it in hot water from the tap.

I would buy only model kits of average, every day cars if I could but they are hard to find amidst the millions of re-re-re-re-re-re-released 60s and 70s muscle cars.

Stopped by a thrift store today at random. Surprisingly the shuttle is complete still sealed in bags and no damage despite the banged up box. I hope I can say the same of the Rolls but I'm afraid to open it lest I find a cracked body and halves of pieces on the bottom.

Picked up a can of Dupli-Color sealer to try out. I tested two hoods using the same amount of primer layers and color coat. The one with the sealer looked better with higher gloss and a smoother surface. Does anyone else use it and is there any reason not to?

Are people finding kits at just stores named "Ace Hardware?" There's a "Big G Ace" in my town. I've been in there a few times but didn't see any hobby items, though it is a big store so I may have missed it.

Had a similar thing happen. Bought a "sealed" 300c from Hobbytown USA. When I opened it I noticed a bunch of loose parts on the bottom of the box. Upon further inspection I found that the door hinges, one whole plated tree and one(!) tire were missing. I emailed the company and got back a rather rude reply telling me that Hobbytowns are privately owned and that I'd have to take it up with the manager there. I called him and he got really defensive and said at least 4 times that they aren't able to reseal boxes there. Eventually he agreed to order a new kit and give me the parts from that. I wonder if he then resealed that one and put it back on the shelf to repeat the cycle.

I have a roll that I've been hesitant to use. The adhesive - on the one I have anyway - is super strong and will pull off paint so it's a one shot thing. Post some pictures if you use it on a model.

Oh yeah, forgot my deal of the day. Walked into an Advance Auto Parts on a whim and saw some paint on a clearance shelf. There wasn't a price but I wanted the colors anyway. I was pleasantly surprised by the final price.

Hobbytown had a bunch of Tamiya kits for 50% off. It was a tough decision, but I've always had a soft spot for the NSX. I'll have to go back soon and grab the Corolla and Opel.

Thanks. I think my pictures could have been at a better angle. The first one is of the rear (and looking it at now I could have done better aligning the trim.) Also the second one doesn't show it very well, but the two pieces that meet the body are quite a bit lower and testing with the hood on it doesn't look right. I'm hoping the headlight holders will help to reshape it.

Thanks, I'll give it a try. If they pull off again maybe I can use a flat piece or something between the two strips. Also, what's the difference between the red and blue testors glue? I've been using the red but it seems pretty weak. I stopped using the blue when it caused a thin piece to melt and bubble on the surface. I assume the red doesn't weld plastic?

No matter how I tried to fit these there was a gap. Out of the box fit was awful; the rear bumper was too long for the body so I stretched it a bit while the glue dried, but I think that lead to the fender panels not fitting right. I'm considering filler but the body kit pieces are held on by very thin strips and I've already torn them off by just lightly sanding. Anyway any help is appreciated. Those gaps will bug me forever if I just paint over it.

Formula 409. It's a general household cleaner usually found near the windex and such. Not sure, but it should be available in Canada.

Same here. I've dumped 36 hours into it so far while I have two bodies waiting to be painted. It's tough to pull away to go do "work."

I've been using white squadron putty. It works well but is really tough to sand smooth. I have a big can of Bondo but I hate working with that stuff. The fumes are terrible. Oh, is the squadron supposed to go on so flaky or did I get an old tube?

Probably ordinary to most, but I've been looking for this stuff for a while. It's the gentler one that can be used on flexible and rigid plastics. This is the only can I've seen within 50 miles, and of course it was the only one on the shelf. I tested it out on a piece and it was so smooth after 3 light coats I wasn't sure if I should sand it. It puts Dupli-Color to shame. Of course it was $8.50 compared to Dupli-Color's $4.99 but it's definitely worth it. I just hope I can find some more.

I never thought to use an airbrush. I gave up after my attempts at brushing it on left visible brush strokes (even though it's supposed to be self leveling) and bubbles formed after it had already been applied. What do you use to clean your airbrush afterward? Will any thinner work?

http://www.fichtenfoo.com/images/tips/airbrushtutorial.swf

Awesome. What scale is this? That chain looks fantastic.

Well, I didn't get it yet, but this will be arriving in the mail today: I just love that body style. It'll look great next to the '68 Firebird that'll probably take me a year to get around to building. Edit: Well, it just arrived and crikey this is the lowest quality model I have ever seen. There is horrendous flash on every piece. Also the one I received is not the one that was pictured on Amazon - the wheels and hood are different. This really irritates me. This almost looks like some blackmarket Chinese knockoff. Oh well, I'll throw it in the "until I'm more experienced to build" pile.

Here's my first, rather lame attempt. I haven't used it since it's been nice outside, but now that the temps are in the 50s I'll have to. But not before I make a trip to a hardware store today for some more lumber for modifications. I can't imagine it being very effective when it's so shallow, plus I still have to find some way to mount my fan to the back. Think I may just scrap it and use different materials. At least it was cheap - the wood was only 20 cents for each board from the scrap bin.

Thanks for all the replies. I'll definitely order your DVD soon, Mr. Yost. I went crazy buying kits and am now a little low on funds. When I do get it, however, I'm sure it'll be much easier for me to learn when I can see it in action. I do have one question - do any decanted sprays need to be thinned? I'm thinking about trying some lacquers decanted for airbrush use.

Formula 409 works well for washing plastic parts. It's not that toxic and can be completely removed with a rinse. I use it to clean brake fluid and haven't had any problems.

I started at 10, then went to 15, 20 and 25. In the lower range it would take a second for the paint to spray (testors enamel thinned 1:1, single action airbrush) after pressing the button even though there was plenty in the bottle and the air was releasing. I don't know if that means the paint wasn't thinned enough, though I doubt that since equal part thinner to already thin testors enamel is like water. I did it in very light coats, waiting 5-10 minutes between each misting.

My messy work area. I was going to organize it today but I tore a chest muscle and now can't even lift a paintbrush without agonizing pain. It's even taking over my computer desk! And that nail polish is to test as a paint, not for my nails.