Mr. Show

I'm not normally a fan of this style, but it was the only 50% off model left at Hobbytown (I bought all the other ones in the past week )

Can future be sanded? I brushed it onto a body, being as smooth as possible and only going one direction, but after it dried I saw raised ridges and a lot of what looks like scratches on the body. Would a second coat fill those in? It's kind of thick and I'm worried about losing detail.

Brake fluid worked fine me. A couple hours took off almost everything (even the yellow layer), then finish sanded the edges and details and it looks perfect.

Definitely not. Handbrushing with enamels inside is fine, but once you add a 1:1 ratio of thinner and start misting it into the air fumes build up quickly. I've always wondered how people do it safely in their basement with so many possible ignition sources (water heater pilot light, heater/air conditioner switching on, etc.) I recently bought an airbrush and after seeing just how fast the propellant cans go I ordered a 1/4" compressor adapter and bought a 1-gallon 1/3 HP compressor for $30 from a local hardware store. Tanks can be had for as low as $19 and hold pressure a lot better than spare tires, and are much cheaper than cans in the long run.

AMT Bill Cushenberry Silhouette. I'm not a fan of the design and it looks to be a very simple kit, but for $9 you can't go wrong.

Decided to go ahead and throw it in the brake fluid since I want a different shade of green that's not glossy. Also threw in the plated parts since they are terrible anyway (lots of orange peel and scratches on some) and am going to paint them and the accents on the car steel. Chrome is too fancy for this horse. Brake fluid seems to be working fast since the paint hasn't cured so hopefully I can paint today and do it right.

My airbrushing adventure went about as expected. My first attempt was fouled by my own ignorance pertaining to airbrushes, plus the manual made no mention of the fact you have to loosen the nozzle on the canister. So there I was, wondering why so little paint was spraying, continually thinning it into oblivion. I then saw a spring and threads and slapped my forehead hard enough to leave a dent. However, forgetting I had thinned the paint so much, I went to work. Well.. It looked good until all the paint started dripping onto the floor. It also looked much worse before I went at it with the thinner and 1500 sandpaper. Armed with basic knowledge (and paint not thinner than air) I gave it another try: Not quite smooth but I'll see how finishing goes. If it doesn't work out I'll try the brake fluid method that's so popular around here. At least the paint is cheap.

This will be my first complete build. I tabled my previous effort after many little mistakes that I can't fix at my current skill level. I am taking what I learned and applying it to this build and am more prepared for any stumbling blocks. THE BOX. Lindberg has quickly become my favorite model maker. I have their F150 kit and am really impressed by the quality, detail and finish of the pieces. The Revell kits I have are garbage in comparison. The body primed with Valspar plastic primer. Just waiting for it dry then I'm going to hit it with my first attempt at airbrushing.

I finally bit the bullet and bought an airbrush. It's a basic one (but looks much higher quality than the thin plastic ones by Testor's) - Badger 250 - but with winter coming I knew I wouldn't be able to paint with cans since I can only use those outside. So for my next question, is a there a comprehensive beginner's guide for airbrushing? Google isn't being much help as I've only found moderate to advanced tutorials which are beyond my scope currently. Thinning for testor's enamel is 1:1, correct? Thanks for any help. Can't wait to get started with this.

Man, I barely have space enough for my little worktable, let alone 100+ kits! Please say you're building that Joker Goon Car soon - that thing was awesome. About Duplicolor primer: is there a way to tell if it's lacquer? I assume the cans that don't mention it one way or another are enamel? Does anybody know anything about the Rustoleum Universal series? The can says it can be used on anything. Also picked up some Pledge with future yesterday as suggested. There was one for wood and one for vinyl/tile floors. I got the latter and hope it's the right one.

Thanks for the help. I was wondering why the frame I primed 4 days ago felt a little wet in spots and was rubbing off. Then there's the smaller pieces I primed and hit with acrylic that now have the original color of the plastic showing through both layers. I just hope I can save them. I'm pretty far from Omaha and Bellevue, and I just started this hobby a few days ago, so probably not. Plus I've already bought too many kits and don't want to think what I'd do in that environment.

I recall reading somewhere that certain combinations will lead to very bad things. Will that happen to me using regular automotive primer then covering with either acrylic or spray lacquer? Also, is there anything lacquer clear can't be used on? Thanks.

Great models! Are you working on anything currently?

Thanks for all the replies and help. This is a great community. For a little update, I send you to this awful thing: Ewww. Well, at least I can learn something from this. Mostly that I should have bought those needle files and not tried using a dremel with engraving bits and a sanding drum. I thought I had all the flash down, but you can always trust primer to light up your mistakes like a neon sign. It's just as well - it's 40 degrees today so I couldn't paint anyway. Time to break out the bondo and files. Also SSNJim, that's very helpful. I love the Panther platform so will definitely be on the lookout for a Crown Vic that can be easily de-policified. Is there a single site people around here use to order kits?

I told myself I would only buy one kit to start off with, but I've had so much fun with the Corvette that I bought an AMT '55 Nomad this morning and am leaving soon to buy my second-favorite car (you'll always be first in my heart, late-model Mercury Marauder,) a Buick Grand National/GNX. Now my only problem will be restraining myself from starting one of those before finishing the 'Vette.

I am scrapping this build and starting another. I learned a lot of things, though, so it's not a total loss. Well, first in about 15 years anyway. I tried building a few when I was 11-13 but lost interest when it came to little details. Anyway I was interested in trying again, but all the kits I saw locally were a little pricey for a hobby to which I wasn't sure I even wanted to commit. On a whim I decided to check out the Goodwill. I found a new, unbuilt 1:24 1953 Corvette made by Monogram in 1977. It doesn't have many pieces (I think it's 70 or so) so it's perfect for a beginner like me. I'm taking it slowly so I get everything right the first time. Some pictures: I decided to go with a different color than the instructions suggest. Should look great on a Chevy. I've only painted the hood so far for color testing. After it cures I'll finish and clearcoat it, and if my experience with this paint is correct it should be extremely smooth and glossy. Some pieces I've started on. The Laguna Blue seems a great match for the Blue Flame engine: Hoping to start on the body today and will post updates as I progress. Any tips are also appreciated.