Scale-Master
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Thanks guys, I'm thinking black with a tan interior.
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This one had the mold line at the roof between the side window and the rear window, (same place the real ones crack) but there was no crack under or in the seam. The front end has been cleaned up and the fender peaks rounded. I sanded most of the panels to smooth them out, much like blocking out a real car. The original paint worked well as a guide coat. A light coat of primer that needs some sanding...
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The factory paint has too many bad spots for me, and I'm not a promo collector so it doesn't hold any special value other than as a "kit" of a favorite car. It took a little more effort and time than I expected to take it apart, a good mount of prying was required, but fortunately everything that broke did so in the best places. Not a lot there… Luckily the glass does not look bad, just ingrained with dirt… That was easily polished out with a little compound. Even the chrome on the bumper and grill looks pretty decent. The front end needs some attention beyond the basic clean up, specifically the hood scoops and the peaks of the fenders.
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I thought about doing that many times over the years, just minor detailing and adding a set of wheels, even had some Rally II wheels earmarked for it. But the hood scoop fit and the mold lines in general detract too much for me to leave them alone, so it will have to be repainted to fix those issues. And the factory paint does have a few small blemishes...
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I have had this old promo lying around my shop for at least 25 years and I got tired of looking at it in its current condition. I got it the way is minus the dirt and minus wheels from my brother. As I recall he acquired it in when it was relatively new. Other than some hand painted silver accents & trim and drilled out holes for the axles, it looks like it is factory original. A quick soap and water wash and it looks fairly nice. A good friend of mine provided me with a Flag wheel to make resin copies of. I found some Revell-Monogram tires that fit them and looked about right in the wheel wells of the Firebird I had to think about what color to do it as I have other kit versions of this basic model and some Camaros of the same era in my collection. That ruled out blue. And I have a lot of red in the collection with another one in the queue too. Im working on a project that will be yellow and another that will be green, so those are out The flash really makes the paint look much nicer than reality
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Thanks guys! Art, bring a wad of cash to the next meeting and then we can discuss payment options... I machined the frame for the license plate from aluminum. The back side has more work in it… To allow the plate to fit inside flush, like a real car.
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I finally decided on a personalized license plate. Like my last two Sevens, the plate will have raised “stamped” characters. I already put a coat of primer on the face. But in addition to raised characters, I decided to make the backside detailed too and made the characters in reverse and depressed. Shown here in the raw brass.
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I saw the Goldenrod a few years ago at the Henry Ford Museum in Dearborn. Looked pretty good. Maybe the sheer size made it cost prohibitive to produce as a kit in an acceptable scale? -
Oh, I have lights. But just regular fluorescent fixtures, plus little incandescent desk type lights for the lathe/mill and other shop machines. Never got into using a magnifier or light loops.
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Oh yeah, I wear reading glasses. Even need 'em to read these days...
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The gauges are assembled and installed into the dash. Each gauge is made up of six pieces plus a decal. Speedo and Tach are the large ones, a small Vacuum gauge is positioned between them. The Water temp and Oil press gauges are mechanical units, the Volts and Fuel level are electrical. Looks like the lenses mess with the focus on a couple of them Trying to get a better shot of the gauge, the camera flash really glitters up the textured matte charcoal dash
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Ordered a generic seal from J.C.Whitney and used the shrink ray...Actually I used the frame as a pattern and cut the seal from a medium thickness matte finish vinyl. Yes, that does happen to me too. I'm trying to make as many of the parts as I can before I go about the final finishing and assembly, but there are a lot of parts I know I'll have to make as I assemble the final build. I will see you on the 21st.
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I cut the windshield from some Lexan stock. Added the rubber seal to both sides… And painted the brass parts.
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I built the original ones shown in the box art photos, (did the Camaro's too). They went together fine, but as I recall the bodies are a bit fiddly due to the opening doors, still not too fragile. Use common care and sense and they build into nice models.
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I again outgrew the box I have been using to house the parts as I make them, so I decided to do a little inventorying before repacking them. Here is the sum of all parts that I have made for this project over the course of almost exactly one year and three months. Most are just in primer, much like kit parts waiting to be finished and assembled. A few are painted and even less of them are finished sub-assemblies. I wonder if I’m halfway? Not that it matters…
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Thanks Tony! I machined the driver’s side mirror and mount/hardware from aluminum. The mirror face is Mylar and angled for optimum rear-viewing …
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Yeah, those tires were a score! Good points are being made about both machines and I'm in agreement with Pete as I use Sherline products too and have for well over 15 years. The customer support (although rarely needed) from Sherline has been nothing less than excellent. The price being higher is an understandable concept to buy the cheaper machine. But the reality is in the long run the Sherline would turn out to be a better value and more cost effective, possibly even cheaper. The Sherline products are easy to maintain and upgrade if needed. Also, being easy to use means you'll use it more and get more value from your investment. Why not buy something that is proven to work right out of the box than getting a cheaper product that might need be modified by installing parts from the proven machine at an increased cost? The value of quality lasts far longer than the twinge of the higher initial cost.
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"Thanks." The windshield wipers are brass and styrene. I decided to make them sweep from the outside due to the shape of the windshield.
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The reservoirs for the clutch and brake master cylinders are pretty much done now that they are painted, (custom) decaled and have the hose clamps installed; I think I may hit them with a duller clear after seeing them in the photos…
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Thanks again guys! These parts were started over a year ago. Now it’s time to fit them into the whole of the project. The firewall has been added to the cowl and the windshield frame and mounts have been soldered together. Only five pieces make up the windshield assembly at this point…
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Only the front portions of the floor panels get carpeting, the rear sections under the seats will just be black paint.
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Thanks! I started on the floor panels. The panels alone were not too time consuming to make, but the rivets that mount them to the frame took a good amount of effort...
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The Zen of Model Building
Scale-Master replied to afx's topic in General Automotive Talk (Trucks and Cars)
Hmm, maybe I should try that... Much as Pete J. says, it is the reason it can take years to build "one" model, and the reality is there are literally dozens and dozens of individual models in each of those "single" long term models. And that collection of little individual models is what keeps the long term project interesting to build. -
Thanks guys! I weighed it and all the parts I had made up to that point a couple months ago and it was well over a pound then. It still is far from the record weight for cars in my 1/12th collection, but it might end up as the heaviest Seven in that collection. Pete, hopefully you can see it in person in about a month...
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I would recommend super glue, i.e. CA, Crazy Glue, alpha-cyanoacrylate,etc. And some accelerator, i.e. Zip Kicker. For parts that need to be aligned or fiddled with as they dry, liquid cement like Tenax, Micro Weld, Weld On#3 or Tamiya are very useful. Avoid the "good ole Testors" tube glue and those types. FWIW, the blue built up in the photos on the box of the kit you got is one of the many I built. I was told to paint it light blue as a restored vehicle. The "Classic Computer" logos were not my idea, just part of the job... Odds are it will suffer from some of the issues I described.