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Scale-Master

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Everything posted by Scale-Master

  1. Scale-Master
    Right now it is a tie between my last 1/12 scale Seven and the current one in progress. Ask me again when I finish the one I'm working on...
  2. Scale-Master
    Thanks Greg, and you are welcome Len. I started on the radiator. First I made the outer shell to fit within the nose of the car. Next I made the frame for the core. The core is made up of aluminum rod and steel wire.
  3. Scale-Master
    Thanks Scott, I appreciate that. Len, I use BJB ST-3040 and add a black dye to it. Technically it is an elastomeric resin. The dash is set up for the gauges. The gauges will be Auto Meter Phantom series. These are the basic housings for the three sizes. I used brass on the backside for a positive fit when I assemble the gauges with the lenses into the dash.
  4. Scale-Master
    I'm not sure why this was moved from In Progress after it had been in that section for a year...?
  5. Scale-Master
    The shifter boot was made by machining a mold from aluminum and casting it with the same pliable resin I used for the tires and other boots. The bezel was also machined from aluminum. It fits flush in the transmission tunnel.
  6. Scale-Master
    I've been following since near the start and must say what a fantastic job of engineering as well as building you are doing. I've seen injection molded kits that don't look anywhere near as nice in regards to parts in general and overall fit.
  7. Scale-Master
    I added the weights and shot a coat of black on it.
  8. Scale-Master
    Even people over six feet tall can fit just fine. Don't forget the drivers side has more leg room than the passenger side. Driveshaft is brass with aluminum bearing caps for the cross-shafts.
  9. Scale-Master
    Looks very nice, and if you are going to be fine tuning under the hood before the contest, I'd suggest cleaning up the paint edges around the reservoirs on the passenger side. Basics like that can be a brutal tipping point in a lot of contests.
  10. Scale-Master
    These are the U-joints for the steering shaft. Here is a dry fitting of them with the links of the shaft assembly. I still need to make pins for the cross-shafts
  11. Scale-Master
    Some of the principle elements of the pedals assembly and the drivers side foot well. I still need to make the faces of the pedals, but I have the geometry set up. The guide for the steering shaft is installed in the foot box too. I started making the frame support work for the steering shaft. The cowl fit and attachment points have been finalized and I started roughing out the dashboard. All of these parts are friction fit/snap together.
  12. Scale-Master
    This is coming along very nicely. Very nicely.
  13. Scale-Master
    Thanks Pete, I need to make sure it can be unbuilt, painted and rebuilt, so the extra time and effort will hopefully pay off in the final assembly. The foot wells are built. I was able to attach the passenger side to the transmission tunnel and still be able to snap it in and out of the frame easily. The driver’s side was a bit more work due to the provisions for the master cylinders and room for the pedals. It “loads” from the top and locks into part of the framework on the bottom of the car. This upper panel also locks in place.
  14. Scale-Master
    I don't recall them ever showing "the rail job". It is discussed a couple times, but I don't think there was a car portraying it. I did a Pie Wagon, but used a panel truck instead of a panel car.
  15. Scale-Master
    They actually fit without any need for mechanical fixturing or adhesive when the seats and body panels are installed. Same for this piece... Beginning of upper under hood framework. Snaps in since it will mounted after the engine is built and installed.
  16. Scale-Master
    Would you believe me if I said I machined it...? I think it is sold by The Campbell Line for model railroading. It came loose in a lot I bought of odds and ends of modeling supplies, but it was with some other Campbell materials. Interesting stuff to work with, very soft. Easy to file, easier to bend, not necessarily where you want it to bend.
  17. Scale-Master
    The interior side panels are made from a perforated aluminum. They are just loosely set in the frame here.
  18. Scale-Master
    What an improvement! I always favored this livery over the Rothman's too.
  19. Scale-Master
    I added the seat mounting rails to the frame. And I made the brackets for the seats. This is the left, hence the engraved “L”… The seats snap onto the rails and allow the seats slide.
  20. Scale-Master
    Well if we are talking finishing, not just working on... Last year it was well over 25, probably even more than 30.
  21. Scale-Master
    Thanks Chris. The front sway bar and the stabilizer links (including the bushings) are in the bag. Too many tiny parts I didn’t want to risk losing. Mostly brass with some machined aluminum for the nuts & bolts & washers and soft vinyl for the rubber bushings. I also added the tabs for the stabilizer links to the lower control arms.
  22. Scale-Master
    Thanks Pete and Art. No one to blame if it don't fit... You can see it in person tomorrow evening...
  23. Scale-Master
    It has changed over the years. Trying to get a "correct" match for a model is even more subjective than for a restored real car. I'd suggest you find what looks good to you and go for it. Tamiya and Testors both have reds I have used for Ferrari models that went to real Ferrari collectors and were received well. In the smaller scales TS-49 can work. As the size goes up TS-8 can work. In the Testors line a similar correlation can be had with Italian Red and Guards Red.
  24. Scale-Master
    Thanks guys. More brasswork... The roll bar is made of solid brass rod. I spot annealed the areas I bent the main bar. Still need to do some detail clean up on the mounting plate soldering… Before I built the roll bar I attached two bosses as receivers to the rear mounting points of the frame. I also drilled through the rear body section at the same points and lined the holes with brass tubing for a positive fit and to protect the future paint from chipping during assembly. It plugs right in…
  25. Scale-Master
    http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=68368
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