Scale-Master

There's some really cool projects in this thread. I only have one I really need to get back to...: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=25777&hl=mclaren

This is a pretty cool thread with the real car reference and the info on the new kit. Nice job Erik.

I don't think they are available in the U.S. anymore. I think some guys are ordering from Spain.

Thanks Bill! The jack on the right is the one I will use on the model. As you can see it is significantly smaller than the test jack, (70% of the size) on the left. It also is made of brass, but with a few machined aluminum parts too. Furthermore it has a pattern cut into the top pad that the larger one does not have. It also works the same way as its big brother. There is a fork on the handle that fits into the receiver. You can see the knurling I put on the handles too.

1) Was your introduction to modeling at home? - Yes 2) From whom? - My Father 3) What kind of models (cars, planes, trains, etc)? - Mostly aircraft, (his passion), but I went to cars as soon as I could. 4) What did the person who introduced you to modeling do for a living ? - Worked at Revell. Job title was Research Analyst. But that title really doesn't do justice to all of the things he was involved with there... 5) How old were you? - About 4 6) About what year was your introduction? - 1965/6

I guess I already got tired of the wheel I made at the onset of this project. I also realized after working on the spare that I wanted more detail on the inside/backside of the rim. I made this wheel center to remedy both of those issues as well as making an overall thinner rim with the same bead dimensions. Still a little more clean-up required before a mold is made from it. I also had to modify the rims I already cast to allow this larger diameter wheel center to fit, as well as to set it into the rim deeper for less overall width.

At least it wasn't a Muira...

Thanks guys. The brass is .015 thick. The idea popped into my head while I was building the trunk liner. It took a few hours to design the art and about 16-18 hours to chemically cut. Maybe two hours or so to build. And 15 minutes of playing with it to strip the theads... I have another smaller one in progress.

Since I am working on the trunk and the spare, I made this scissor jack. Just a dry run test, I’ll make another one with more details. This one is all brass with a steel jackscrew. I just wanted to see if it would work. And yes, it does work.

Heat can speed up the gel or kicking of the two part fillers. But since it is a chemical reaction, it would be safer to just let it run its course. As discussed, dry and cure times are not the same. Heat can make it feel dry sooner, but full cure is when it is most stable.

Thanks. That makes good sense. Novus does work great on plastic, but I wouldn't use it for paint prep on raw plastic either...

Thanks, that is what I was missing.

Just to be clear... Is that paint to paint for the last coat? Paint will adhere much better to polished paint than polished plastic.

I thought you already bought, rebuilt and repainted a new lathe? On the 5th of this month. Are you looking for a second one?

It depends on the paint too. Mechanical vs. chemical bond. Mechanical bond paints need a texture or "tooth" to bite onto. Chemical bond paints "melt" or meld into the surface. It also makes a difference if you are going to mask. For example, I have had great results with Tamiya TS paints on raw shiny (Tamiya) plastic, but they don't adhere well enough to mask without the tape pulling the paint off. What about the myth of red and yellow plastic bleeding through paints...?

I don't plan to "play" with it when it is done, but the spare can be put in and taken out through the opening now. Once the mounting/hold-down hardware and other items are added I think it will be a permanent installation.

That is impressive.

These are the rear shocks. Mostly brass with some aluminum for the piston shaft. I wound the springs from steel wire.

It looks like it could be a Camaro Panel Van too.

This is the trunk inner liner. It is constructed of styrene and brass and fiberglassed for strength and appearance. The inside will be textured and finished later. The round section at the forward edge is a separate piece that snaps on. It is the only way to install it into the frame. The rear body section is also coming together after reworking the warp out of it… The primer is glossy; those are reflections not discoloration from sanding. A side note, at this point it already weighs 11 ounces, that’s almost a ¾ pounder…

That is a very cool compliment that would not have made much sense just a short time ago. Thank you! More frame supports have been added…

Favorites? Chicken, steak and turtles. Corn and sliced potatoes for balance. And artichokes... Cooked with mesquite, or hickory if that isn't handy. In fact almost anything that can be made in the oven, I'll grill.

Thanks guys, it was nice to see you at the GSL too. Yeah Art, the fiberglass turned out to be a win-win with its inherent rigidity plus the texture looking more like what I also think should be there. The basic exterior of the fuel tank is done and I added more parts to the frame for the mounts and made a pair of straps too. They will tighten up once the insulation is added. The screws will be replaced with bolts later.

Thanks guys, yes the GSL was a good trip. A while back I set the rear bodywork aside not realizing it was on an uneven surface. Unfortunately it picked up a bit more than just a mild warp. I tried to bend it back into shape and it looked like it might fix it. So I added four more hard mounting points with screw in fasteners on the frame and also keyed the bodywork to fit snugly onto the frame and it did help, but did not cure all the issues and it still needed to be trued up. I flexed the body until I broke some of the joints and then fastened it to the frame. Next I made two vertical relief cuts in the lower rear sides of the fenders. The one on the left side was drawn in… …and the one on the right was shimmed out until the rest of the bodywork was trued up. Even the trunk lid fit properly again. Additional brass and styrene bracing was bonded to the inside of the body to shore it up while it was still bolted to the frame. I also used laminating resin and three layers of fine fiberglass mat on the inside of the wheel wells for more rigidity and rebonded all the fractures I created by bending and flexing it. A brass “leading edge” was added for strength between the fenders. You can see some of the piecework sheet styrene and CA construction where I have sanded through the primer. Now it is strong enough to continue with the surface work without being bolted to the frame.

This started as an original Hot Wheels Chaparral 2G casting that was “over-played-with” and the rear wing and engine cover were missing as well as the wheels being really worn out when I got it. I reworked it and scratch-built a new engine cover/scoop to replicate a rare Chaparral 2G-L Codalunga Prototype that was tested for Le Mans and intended to run in 1968, but since the chassis could not handle the power of the 427 it was deemed unsuitable for endurance racing and they never attempted to qualify it. I also made the decals for it.