Scale-Master

To be fair, some of those kits with great box art contained parts that left much to be desired. Arguably in several cases the box is far better than the kit was. I must admit to being partial to the Lynnwood '55 Chevy art, family ties and all...

1984 car has the Pierlant ovals on it. WIP Thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59720

Thanks guys. The wheels are modified Miata units. You can see how they were repurposed in the WIP thread. The Humbrol paint came out of the little enamel Xtracolor tins. X368 Mica 1 and X369 Mica 2

Agreed! And that is exactly why I used it and even painted the recessed area that metallic gray.

Rob, is that the one you stuffed a Nascar chassis into?

WIP thread: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59642&st=0

First sentence in the first post in this thread: "This started out as an old late ‘70’s Sunbird by Revell." "I am using the customized Sunbird rear end."

WIP Thread: http://www.modelcars...showtopic=59782 The mirrors were also MIA, so I fabbed up a pair in styrene.

I mixed talc into the paint.

There were no windows so I made a windshield from sheet plastic. The headlights were painted with a mix of clear and white to tone down the chrome. (They don’t look so white in person…)

Thanks Art. I made the missing decals and applied them…

All the decals are on them, some were challenging to get all the pieces lined up as they cracked during application, others were totally unusable and had to be replaced. The interiors are done too…

Tail lights were done with BMF, Turn Signal Amber, Transparent Red and Pearl White. Window trim is done and the graphics have been applied.

LeMans Winner. Starter 1/43rd resin kit. WIP here: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=59781

Or use a different color stripe, then overcoat with a tinted clear (possibly peal) the same color as the base color: http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=50289&hl=turbine

What a difference a bit of wax can make, especially on a non-cleared witches brew mix of urethane and enamels using lacquer thinner to marry them all together. Now it is onto the black trim and graphics…

The cracked window trim decals were usable, just more time consuming to apply, like a floating jigsaw puzzle... Interior is standard fare for this era of these kits. This one has dash decals as well as for the seat belts and fire extinguisher. (Earlier Starter kits often had nothing as far as interior decals.)

Figures... I make a comment about how nice and usable the decals are before I had applied them all, and Murphy enters the issue to help all the window trim decals to crack and fall apart...

All the color/graphics is done with decals over a plain white body. Unfortunately this is all of the decals that came in the kit. Turns out the kit was missing at least one decal sheet, the one with all the white graphics and main sponsors. There are also some multi-color decals not included, (drivers names, Lemans badging, wheel lettering…). I don’t know if the kit never had them, or they too were lost. So I will have to make replacements…

More decals, just the yellow on the front half is paint. The main scheme is done so it is just the sponsors that need to be applied.

Yes, many times I have had problems with the decals in these older kits. (Fortunately this one has a nice usable set.) Some can be saved by clearcoating before use, but some are unusable, and in some cases they are missing from the kit. Sometimes I just use them and deal with the issues by touching them up. Other times I make replacement decals.

The interior is done, quick & dirty OOB. I added some texture (velour-ish) to the seats and some decals for the gauges and radio. (Note the molded in CB too.) Wood trim (remember, this was the 70s…) is just hand painted.

You get what you pay for, if you are lucky... Another reason I am a Sherline user.

Yes, it is 1/43rd. It will get flat black trim around the windows after it is clear coated.

Two of the headlights were missing (pitfalls of these older kits). Since all four lights should be the same, I built up convex domes in the sockets with white glue and used decals for continuity.