Scale-Master

It just seemed like low mileage to need a resto.

Sure, I'll be glad to share a few from that fun kit. This is the first one I built. Made new wheels and some other details. I put a Rotary engine in this one, converted it to LHD and made a Rotus. This is the most recent one, but it is also the most modified one I have done. Also converted to LHD and used the left over Webers from the Rotus on the Buick V6.

The more things it is supposed to do, the less well it can do any of them... I agree, looks best suited for a fantasy spy movie.

Why would a car with only 60K need to be restored?

Soldering is far stronger than cement. And more workable. It is why I soldered instead of cemented the Bentley Speed 8 chassis together.

I spent a few hours to clean up the flashed over but low pin-holed resin body casting. Forming the brass fender louver panels and bending the actual louvers was a bit tedious, and I was a little surprised that I had to rework the right side recessed area of the body/fender so the panel could even be close to fitting semi-flush. The chassis is all brass which I soldered together.

The door decals were as fragile as the hood ones. I clear coated them last week to hopefully make them useable, but they were still too brittle and the first one I tried to apply broke up. (Also the red in the lettering was way too dark.) So I made new decals for the doors, (I already had the art on hand, just needed to resize it). At least I was able to use the smaller Limited Edition and Indy logos from the kit.

A lot of things are "dead" or out of style in the real world, but they can live on forever in our models. Pro Street seems to have been replaced by Pro Touring and in ten years who knows what might replace it? Pro Electric maybe? Pro Dinosaur?

Aren't they still in Elgin IL? Used to be in Torrance CA. Not aware they were ever in England...

My cousin was a rocket surgeon...

It has to be staggered; otherwise the rods would be fighting for the same real estate on the crank. Like most V engines. Should be common knowledge to anyone who actually builds real cars/engines...

It was labeled 1/16 in error. Minicraft has a line of 1/16 cars, and it was just a mistake that the Rolls was listed and labled that way. There never was a plan to make one in 1/16. Most of the cars in the line are re-releases of old (even ancient) tooling, some of which have a few new parts added.

I think you missed my point. I am going to guess you don't have any instant access to a new windshield either. But cement is likely easier and quicker to procure than a new part, even if it is not instantly available.

The firewall and master cylinder are done, very plain and not much detail compared to more modern kits. But a few shades of black helps a little…

I have this old thing, built 22 years ago; it won Best Automotive at the 1990 IPMS Nationals in Miami.

So... You have to go get another windshield? I'm thinking that effort could have been spent going to get a different adhesive instead.

Seems like a lot of extra effort, and you still need to use putty, (which you need to wait for it to dry...). How deep is the "weld"? Can you show us the other side of the two pieces where the seam is? Do you also fill that seam with welding/putty or just leave it? Seems like traditional current cement technology would still be easier and quicker as well as stronger.

The red pinstripe is thin vinyl I cut to match the masking of the silver/black paint line. Same material I used on the rims for the red rings. I cut the body stripe and the masking from the same pattern so they would match. I also made a pair of license plates. I used the same art I made for the 1/24 scale production decal sheet in the last Pace Corvette re-release and enlarged them to fit.

Anyone can do the "before" version, how about doing it as the "after" version?

Very Impressive, super clean!

The decals from the kit did include the hood spears, but they were done in halves, and the first half disintegrated as soon as I put it in water. Not a big problem and the silver didn’t really match the paint I used on the body. So I made new ones using the same silver paint as I used on the lower portion of the body. I painted some decal paper silver then printed the red pin striping and a black perimeter and used a black Sharpie around the edge.

Doesn't look like you'll be stopping here much...

Like Monty said, I make what I want, but some of the fine wires I got from Detail Master. I also save left over PE scraps for "re-purposing".

Here it is with the red pinstriping. Next step is to apply the Pace Car decals.

The silver leather on the interior is Tamiya Bare Metal Silver (Lacquer) and the carpet is a color I mixed from Tamiya Flat Aluminum and Japanese Gray(Acrylics). The body is all Tamiya Lacquers. I use Windsor Newton Sable Blend brushes. It is the big eighth scale one. The black has been applied and the masking worked well enough...