Scale-Master

I am especially partial to this one… While not scratchbuilt, it contains more scratchbuilt and hand machined parts than most models. Lot of little things stuffed into it. And it is blue! It is also the 2007 GSL Best of Show, Peoples Choice BOS, and The Augie winner.

I wasn't planning on using the T-tops, I was just going to leave it open Monty, after all, it is Southern California... The interior tub is one piece plus the seat bottoms molded in. I sprayed a bright silver lacquer base and masked then sprayed a lightly textured acrylic silver-gray mix for the carpet. The rest of the trim/details were hand painted by brush.

After priming and more sanding I fitted the hood, nose and rear to the body. All parts needed a little smoothing of the surfaces, but the fit is quite good.

Older Monogram original issue kit I intend to just build Out-Of-The-Box. It is molded in that hard high-gloss low-impact plastic from that era of Monogram kits. It had a few cracks that I fixed fixed with CA, and a few dings too, surprising to me since the plastic is so hard. They too were filled with CA. The mold lines were not too bad, but there were some issues around the door lines and nose that needed extra attention, and the body needed to be blocked out over all. The scuffed areas are the ones that required the most attention.

I agree, one of Tamiya's best ever offerings.

Absolutely nothing wrong with acknowledging that point. In fact, that is pretty much what all the comments offer, and I don't see where anyone said anything but good things about the quality of the build. Yes, "A good build", fully acknowledged and agreed upon...

I think many of us would like to see some in progress photos too!

I have looked at this several times over the last few days and must say I am intrigued. A first timer, who never built any model ever before, achieving this level of quality is absolutely incredible. She wired the engine and it looks like she even swapped one from another kit that actually fits under the hood? Amazing forethought. Especially with the added height of the blower. I'll bet she even got the firing order correct. Hinged the rear door? Pretty advanced stuff for a first timer, kudos! The window is a little thick, but what the heck, first timers can get a pass on that. Clean execution of both the application and crisp masking of the paint, better than my last model, impressive indeed. Glass smooth finish too, way better than my wife has been able to accomplish on the half dozen cars she’s done, (and arguably a huge percentage of other builders here). Almost hard to believe! Use of aftermarket accessories on a first attempt? Gauges and all the interior upgrades/modifications? Well done too, just amazing. And a wheel swap to boot? And not just any wheel swap, one the required some re-engineering from the modern pin mount to the old axle type. Incredible. And she knew or figured out what kits to use as donors? Awesome! I build fast, but six weeks and all those mods for a first timer with that clean of a finished product with no direct or hands on help from you? Only coaching? Wow!

I reworked the suspension, but as far as realistically? Not exactly. I used the front A arms on the rear and left out the tie rod/rack. I also cut out the fenderwells. Since it was intended to be a curside I was able to fake a few things, but if you don't study the chassis/suspension too closely, it works... The wheels do roll.

Nobody noticed that it was a Camaro that gets smashed into the bulldozer and not the star of the movie Challenger in Vanishing Point? Or the obvious discrepancies between the '55 Chevy that Falfa wrecks compared to the one that is used throughout American Graffiti?

Now that is original and artistic! Very creative!

New wheels & tires and a slammed suspension. Side mirrors and rear spoiler are from an RX7, I made new reflective mirror faces and treated them to the same fade as the sides of the body. The exhaust tip and fuel filler were machined from aluminum. Instead of a traditional front spoiler I made a splitter from sheet styrene. The screen under the custom hood cutouts is some stainless I had lying around painted gunmetal. Paint is Tamiya, Dupont and HOK.

Like the Duke's of Hazard cars and the A-Team van that crumple and shed pieces upon bone crushing impact and continue to drive on without so much as a scratch?

The OP's picture is correctly identified as the Bertone Mustang (1965). Here is a link about it: http://www.carstylin...5_ford_mustang/ The one I posted is the Allegro Roadster made from the Allegro Coupe.

Can you provide some proof to that assertion George? I cannot find anything to substantiate it, and it seems rather farfetched especially to be sold by Micro-Mark.

I always thought this one looked more "Chevy"

Thanks guys. Not going for mellow... The interior is finished, the steering wheel came from some Tamiya Japanese car kit, (parts box), the crush sleeve is wound wire. Seat belts are made from tape and left over PE pieces. (Yes, I see they need to be refastened to the roll bar brace in the photo, and already have been.) Door panels were replaced with fabricated ones from sheet styrene and PE scraps.

I can't believe it took this long for it to be made by Mattel. Cool score there.

The dash is done, the pedals are from some other RHD Tamiya kit. Still needs a crush sleeve and steering wheel.

I shot the body a base of Camel Yellow. Then airbrushed a blend of Brilliant Orange around the beltline and sides, and added some heat with a little Fluorescent Red around the edge of the beltline. A Pearl Violet Purple mix of Dupont with a HOK Candy Cobalt Blue fade around the bottom… And a reflective Stop Light Red stripe in the beltline divider.

I got too dizzy from the camera movement to watch it all, but it looks grungy.

Thanks for the heads up, now we can raid your kit stash at home while you're away...

I left the body to dry in a closet for a little more than the last five months due to the paint wrinkling issue. It seemed like it had cured and might be stable… So I sanded out the defects and reshot a white base and built up and blended the TS-36 Fluorescent Red into the rest of the rear section. It looks like I may be on my way to saving it as it still looks like this after about 24 hours… Only time will tell…

I machined a fuel filler in aluminum. A sleeve for the body to fit the outside curvature. And the filler/cap…

If it is not too late, I would dig that yellow modeling clay out of the frame. It will cause problems down the road. And paint won't stick to it. It looks like you used some putty or filler on the ejection pin holes in the same picture that shows the clay in the frame, that would be a better choice to use to fill the frame. Hot water, detergent and a toothbrush can be used to get all the clay out.