Scale-Master

Some builders are not aware of the level of quality they are building at compared to others. (Some are and don’t care.) If they only are comparing their new work to their old work, they may very well be improving, but still not building as well as many others. (Some do want to improve.) That being said, to falsely praise what is clearly poor workmanship is a disservice. To both the builder and those trying to learn from watching. If someone does, (let’s say a custom) and the styling, or wheel choice for example, does not look good to me, but the workmanship is fine, it is a subjective matter. If it is a replica (or model meant to be believable) and the model doesn’t match the real car, or added “details” are clearly out of scale or incorrect, that is another issue. Just as if the workmanship is sloppy. Praising orange peeled or generally bad paint as "super glossy" or "deep"? Why? Why not offer some tips on how to avoid or better yet, repair it? But workmanship across the board should not be praised when it is sub-standard or the builder may not know he can improve. It is counterproductive to blast the people who see the work and comment for what it is. I see there is an element of comparing to one's own work to decide what someone deems good or not, but just because it is better than one person can do, it does not automatically mean it is good. If you are comfortable with your results, fine, but I agree with Harry’s original post in this thread. Open forum, no immunity. Sadly there are some people here who will lambaste someone offering an honest critique of certain peoples work…

Thanks Roger. This one is more of an exercise to see what the kit builds. The next one (if I decide to go for it) might get some adjustments and additional or different detailing.

The Tamiya lacquers are spray can only. The bottles are mostly acrylic in the USA, but I do have some Tamiya bottle enamels. If I did not have the TS paints, I would use Testors enamels for this. Probably start with 1127 orange and adjust if needed. The doors won't be done to open or come off. I hope to be able to "open and close" the rear cover, but if it ends up as a curbside, that's what it will be.

Except for the black I am using all TS Lacquers for the body colors. I used Testors Classic Black enamel (cut with lacquer thinner) for the black.

I am liking that! Makes me want to get out my PDP kit!

Actually... I think it looks good with the shadows in that shot enough to maybe just go to the dullcote. But then it is just one picture, I'd hate to steer you wrong from one photo...

I'll try to impart what I learn to make it easier to build... The wheels/tires are done except for the nuts. Since I machined the outer rims I cut the valve stems from the kit parts and used them.

I know it's a little late, but I have found it is easier to build the engines on these kits before priming/painting. At the rate you are going I would expect to see you doing another car that uses the same engine though...

I shot the black on the nose and tail… Once dry it is onto the decals…

This one is a Starter brand kit. The interior is pretty much done…

1/43rd.

I have the body painted and decaled. Now it is onto painting the molded in engine/bay detail. The wings are built up too, all photoetched brass.

Check the spec sheets for the product you intend to use/purchase. Most can be found online these days. The info is there for a reason. Most dealers have hard copies too. Ask your dealer, some are very knowledgeable I usually compensate for the smaller scales by using extra reducer, but that can lead to problems, (like attacking the plastic or other elements), so test before trying it on anything of value. And the tweaking of the ratio is not an exact science. Experiment to find what works for you. Application is closest to Tamiya lacquers in my experience (if I were to compare it to anything). Practice, take notes, and you should be able to get good results in a short amount of time. Don't wait too long to clean your equipment, especially with catalyzed materials. And WEAR A PROPER RESPIRATOR please!

There is a little orange peel that makes it look kind of "sparkly" in that picture, but it settled down as it dried. TS-12 is solid opaque non-metallic orange. Yes, I did remove the tape adhesive from the white, no sense risking the fresh paint to clean it up until dry. I painted the engine block Testors Black Chrome Trim.

Too true...

I have heard that a few times. At first I was taking it as an insult. But then I considered the source. It is usually meant as a compliment based on the quality of built up kits the person has seen compared to higher end (or just plain cleaner assembled) die-cast. Now if one of my modeler friends says it, it better be as a joke or that I used a die-cast to start with, or I need to cut back on the clear...

I like talcum (baby) powder to make that effect.

Step one is to assemble the engine, so I started doing that while the body dries. Due to all the handling required to fit the headers and engine mounts, I left off everything above the heads. I also installed the plug wires before mounting the heads to the block. Installing them after the headers looks to be a very tough job as it was difficult enough after drilling out the heads and wiring them with nothing in the way. There’s gonna be some touch up needed… The instructions say the triangular engine mounts/supports can be installed through the headers, but it “will tax your patience”. I don’t see how, the headers and the supports occupy the same space. (They do suggest leaving them off entirely), but I found a compromise of removing the lower “leg” of the supports is about as close as it gets. The lower section can be bent to fit, but that just looks even worse than removing it. I textured the injectors/manifold to look like it was a cast part. I am installing the vinyl hoses and lines because I want to see if it can be built out of the box using them, and if so, what it looks like… (I have heard all the stories…) They are a pain to work with and very difficult to clean up. A better option would be to replace them, but then it would not be OOB… And what I learn from this one I can apply to the next one.

Keyword here, water-BORNE, not water BASED. What is being applied is not "water soluble", but can be disturbed by moisture before clearing with a solvent based clear. I have worked with it. Not a fan... But still, a respirator is well advised.

I masked off the white on the doors and the engine cover and airbrushed the TS-12 Orange. I built it up in light coats to limit the chances of bleed. One last semi-wet pass was done from the can, and then I took the tape off while the paint was still wet. The lines do not have to be perfect since decals will cover the color break.

One point to remember in regards to models, while many real cars do have orange peel, it needs to be scaled down like everything else or it will be the focal point of the finish. Imagine the orange peel on a model enlarged 25 times.

I have always been good at budgeting my time. And I build almost anytime I can. Fortunately work has never been too far from home or the shop...

I too am wondering how this one will play out. Kind of riding along with myself... I have used this technique to change the size and depth of rims and to adapt them to larger tires utilizing "stock" rims for the centers. Yes, the Good Years are recessed, I have not checked to see if they are included on the decal sheet too, but I think I may just paint them.

Yes, and thanks!

I am all over the map with the parts/steps I am building assemblies for. But I have this to show for some of my efforts. The kit wheels were not as clean as I hoped, so I machined new outer rims from aluminum. The body has been prepped and primed and the white areas have been shot. Next up for the body is to mask and shoot the orange.