Scale-Master

If it was 1968, you would not be here for another 20 years. I wish it were 1968 again sometimes too, other times not as much. But then I lived through 1968.

Why yes, there is.

IF it happens (notice big if) why not more than just limiting it to 1/18 scale? To me the medium is more relevent than just the scale. I'd suggest die-cast: all scales.

Is it just me that finds the irony of the acronym DOH is the same thing doltish Homer Simpson says when he screws up?

Those look nice. I have found old calculators sometimes have rubber contacts under the buttons that work well as speakers under grilles like those.

I have two kits of it, not 100% sure what kit Gregg is doing. Hostaro makes one, Fisher the other, both are resin kits.

Yeah Dave, I did. I wonder where it went? Another forum glitch? Or something more sinister afoot...? In the interest of helping others in the modeling community, what I wrote was, according to Fisher Models a good match for the Sunoco Blue on the 512 is Testors 1111 Dark blue. (I happen to agree that it is close.) I also opined that the one Gregg is doing looked more like it was painted 1110 Medium Blue to me. For what it is worth, I have a calibrated LaCie monitor, have seen the real car and have the Fisher model and both paints I referenced, (and have a pretty good eye for these things). I have also viewed it on two other monitors and it looks the same on all three. And I also know going from memory with no photo reference is a good way for me to mix or choose the wrong color. I'm not saying Gregg's car is the wrong color, I am saying it looks too light to me. I'm also curious about something, I shoot almost all my models with digital cameras. From an old Mavica to a fairly new Lumix. The photos look like they capture the color just like they look on the models, and look the same from both cameras. I don't do any color correcting. Even the pictures I shot for articles in the magazine are uncorrected. Why do these photos need to be corrected? What am I missing?

Talk about stuffing 10 pounds of something into a 3 pound bag... That engine bay looks full. I especially like what you did with the chassis and suspension. Very nice.

Heavy sigh.... No Joe, it is absolutely positively not the way yours are installed. Seriously, can you not see that in the photo? Saying they are doesn't make them match the photos of them. If you don't want to fix it, that is fine, just don't claim things that aren't correct are. Other builders learn from what is posted here, in this forum, I think it is our duty to provide correct information, not mis-information and not excuses for incorrect choices. Why someone would ask for advice to build accurately then argue in the face of facts and photos to justify building it wrong amazes me. Keith's post shows exactly what I described for a car be propelled forward. (Thanks Keith.)

And just to clarify, wrinkle walls are not mounted with wrinkles. Wrinkles are a byproduct of the soft side wall dealing with the forces being generated through them. If you saw one mounted on a rim but off a car, or even on a car, but jacked up off the ground, it would not be wrinkled like the model is. I really would like to see the research you have (since you clearly state how you are right), that shows the wrinkles like you installed them, as I am sure others would too, in the interest of providing accurate reference material. I'm always trying to learn...

No Joe, that is incorrect. Not sure how you are doing your research, but the wrinkles are clearly going the wrong way. You can say they look correct, (maybe they do to you) like the rest of the car, (I noticed you didn’t provide a photo to make your point either), but that does not change the facts. Doesn't "detailing" something imply doing it accurately too? The reality is the way the rim turns and "loads" the sidewall the wrinkles must spiral out from the rim towards the tread in the opposite direction of the rotation of the wheel due to the resistance of the tire on the ground. Simple physics, that action... At least here on earth. But you can claim you are building it with the transmission in reverse if you want a legitimate excuse. No need to make stuff up to justify little mistakes, some of us know how real cars work and are glad to help. Hopefully it is not too late to swap the left and right rears, assuming they are installed the same way?

Be that as it may, your slicks are on backwards Joe. At least the one on the right is, can't tell for sure about the left.

That is so cool on so many levels! Great brass work!

Since you have the other rims from the other kit, why not cast copies of them? Could be an addition to the resin column, two birds with one stoner. If that is the Fisher kit maybe you could get replacements for the wheels and decals...? You probably don't want to hear this since the decals are already on the body, but I think the color is too light. But it is a bitchin' car, makes me want to build one of my kits of it...

That is looking very nice! Very clever approach too.

This one and the recent McLaren GTR have full interior detail, (the GTR had a full engine too). I have another Jag on the bench I'll shoot & share the insides of, it too has an engine...

Resin and PE kit from about 1990. Built out of the box, but with some touch up of the purple required since the decals cracked something fierce when introduced to water. I was able to mix a blend of Testors Panther Pink and Dark Sea Blue to be very close, but it needed to be airbrushed and feathered/blended in to work without being detectable under scrutiny.

Since you had asked for advice before... If it's not too late, maybe you can straighten out those injectors so they aren't so skewed to the left. You are adjusting other parts... That really sticks out, but on the plus side it does distract the eye from the the oversized beading, but I doubt that was your intent(?). Also if it is not too late, you might consider making the steering rod a bit smaller diameter than the frame is, more like a real car. Nice to see you took my advice and removed the battery...

Cool, dark and dry, the best climate for the stuff.

Well, you have Chuck Jordan Sr. on the design staff of GM, and his son designing for Mazda. No surprise the last generation RX-7 and the C5 Corvette look like siblings, as well as the aforementioned Chevy SS Concept and Mazda RX-8...

That is an excellent way to permanently affix the the lid to the container. I have been using 25 year old Floquil recently and that trick can work for it, but it is certainly not the best way to store urethane hardener, unless you don't mind breaking into the container.

You say five year old Matrix, is that five year old hardener too?

Hence my observation that you haven't really driven cars enough to make informed opinions or recommendations. You are young and I appreciate your enthusiasm, but real world and firsthand experience earned knowledge is desired over little snippets of info-bits tossed out in an effort to sound like you know more than you do. Some people may not realize you are young and not as experienced as you try to sound and take to task some of the things you post, sometimes that can cause them problems.

I thought you were only 13? Seeing that 16 is the earliest age one can get a license in the U.S.A., how is it you have driven "many kinds of cars"? And even if you briefly were behind the wheel of some cars, I really wonder if you have enough real world experience of true driving, (not just moving) to fully be able to offer an informed opinion.