Scale-Master

I saw either the same one, or one just like it back in the '80s too! (It may have been the late '70s.) I remember thinking you don't see many Ferrari's in light metallic blue. I've lived in Southern California all my life. I saw it in Newport Beach. I wonder if it is the same car...?

For the Super Seven. Approximately 80 individual pieces. The intake runners are the only kit parts, (but modified), the rest is all scratchbuilt/machined, mostly aluminum. The electrical wiring will be done after installation...

You are very kind Ismael. And thanks for the encouragement... - Mark

Officially a WIP. After over two years of building, it's not just a shelf of parts and sub-assemblies. I got a lot done on it yesterday, at least assembly wise, it finally looks like a potential car. The suspension is bolted on for alignment so I can take measurements and make some more parts, but I am now in the process of replacing the phillips heads with hex heads. I need to make about 50 just to change over what I have assembled here...

Thanks everyone. I bought a stick of Delrin years ago and a friend gave me some remnants too, (I just found the stuff I bought). I got it at my regular metal supply shop. A little lasts me a long time... It has some neat properties, but is not a required material for much modeling. I got a lot done on the car yesterday, at least assembly wise, it finally looks like a potential car after over two years of building, not just a shelf of parts and sub-assemblies, more pictures soon... And yep, you caught me...

Usually I use telephone, or bell wire to wind my 1/12 scale springs. But these actually are from the kit, (one of the dozen or so parts I'm actually keeping from it). Just wind it around the appropriate diameter of brass tubing, paintbrush handle, knife handle, etc...

For my current Super Seven build... All scratchbuilt. The shocks are mostly brass (soldered together) with some aluminum and delrin. The driveshaft is mostly aluminum with some brass and steel pins for the pivot points. SMS Hi-Def C/F decal for the shaft. Sad part is these items are hard to see even if the car is turned over... like that ever mattered before on this project...

Where was that yellow & black one photographed Wildrice? I know I have seen it, (even down to the color keyed fuzzy dice), but can't recall for sure where... - Mark

You may want to still build it Bob. If you have the finished one handy it can be an aid when it comes to decalling. This is the second one of these Zs I did. Having the first one on hand sped up the decal time almost two fold, even though it was year between the builds. Also the kit parts fit like a dream. I can understand the redundancy factor, but the kit also comes with the PitWork version decals too so you can have a variant, granted it is very similar. Just the building of it, assembling the pieces, was enjoyable to me. I too have one more mostly done with a completely different paint scheme and personality. I know you will enjoy the parts regardless of the livery you choose... - Mark

Thanks guys. Yes, it is a curbside and with a die-cast chassis pan too. At first I wasn't sure about that, but since it is a curbside, it doesn't matter as long as you aren't modifying it. And it won't be warped as a plastic one could be prone to. The fit of all the parts of this kit is incredible. Even the clear parts are engineered to take the risk of glue damage almost to zero... - Mark

I have a Xanavi Skyline almost done, at least the body. The Z is a little easier to paint and decal. I highly recommend these kits. The fit and engineering are awesome... - Mark

I used this as one of my subjects in the decal application demos I did at the last TamiyaCon. Been working on it finishing in my free time ever since. Great fitting kit. Decals fit really well too and match the Tamiya lacquers dead on...

A replica of a good friend's car for his collection. Modena yellow. Looks more like fly yellow in the pics, but it's not in person. Pretty quick build, only a week and a day, start to finish. Had to change a couple minor light details to Americanize it. I was out driving it yesterday, you know for reference... yeah, to build the model, that's it... What a blast, that sucker screams! - Mark

Usually gold will give you a richer warmer color, but possibly a little darker than silver. It's best to match the color of the metallic flakes in the paint to the base coat. Silver flakes, silver base; gold flakes, gold base... You can also use metallic grays as base colors to tweak the final shade. Many silvers and golds are very dense, test first, you may not need to put white down first, save yourself a layer of paint...

Welcome Mr. Corvette...

Hi Mike. I do believe I saw 3 of those 4 at the GSL... - Mark

That looks GREAT! You took a wonderful kit and really brought it to life, and kicked it up a few notches. Very Well Done... - Mark

Listening Gregg? Hmmmm.... Sounds familiar... - Mark

Yeah, after a month of work, and when I thought it was finished, I didn't like the way it looked on the mocked up chassis/body. Nothing really noticeable to probably anyone but me. I knew it would haunt me if I didn't re-do it. Still have the "old" one, just not right for this project. I was able to reuse the uprights and the wiper assemblies, but I had to refinish the uprights. Negligible difference, but worth the effort to me...

Scratchbuilt from mostly brass and some aluminum. The main frame and wipers are brass, soldered together. The upright stays are aluminum as well as the machined hardware. (Even has a washer system.) The C/F is Scale Motorsport Hi-Def. About 40 parts in this assembly. While it may resemble the standard configuration of a Super Seven windshield, it is very different, especially when you consider the kit I started with uses a little frameless deflector type...

Very nice attention to detail and overall workmanship. Definitely one to watch, keep us posted...

As Mike noted, it is actually my Seventh Seven. And thanks Jairus, I hope this will be my best 7 yet...

Welcome stranger...

A Radiator Scratchbuilt. Three row. Mostly made of aluminum, some brass, some steel for the core. 67 pieces make up the shell, core, core support, fittings/hardware, cap and petcock... Couple custom decals too... - Mark

The most important tool used is a metal ruler. A good accurate ruler is very important for making sure dimensions are correct. And get a really BIG one too...