Scale-Master

Thanks guys. Yes, it is a curbside and with a die-cast chassis pan too. At first I wasn't sure about that, but since it is a curbside, it doesn't matter as long as you aren't modifying it. And it won't be warped as a plastic one could be prone to. The fit of all the parts of this kit is incredible. Even the clear parts are engineered to take the risk of glue damage almost to zero... - Mark

I have a Xanavi Skyline almost done, at least the body. The Z is a little easier to paint and decal. I highly recommend these kits. The fit and engineering are awesome... - Mark

I used this as one of my subjects in the decal application demos I did at the last TamiyaCon. Been working on it finishing in my free time ever since. Great fitting kit. Decals fit really well too and match the Tamiya lacquers dead on...

A replica of a good friend's car for his collection. Modena yellow. Looks more like fly yellow in the pics, but it's not in person. Pretty quick build, only a week and a day, start to finish. Had to change a couple minor light details to Americanize it. I was out driving it yesterday, you know for reference... yeah, to build the model, that's it... What a blast, that sucker screams! - Mark

Usually gold will give you a richer warmer color, but possibly a little darker than silver. It's best to match the color of the metallic flakes in the paint to the base coat. Silver flakes, silver base; gold flakes, gold base... You can also use metallic grays as base colors to tweak the final shade. Many silvers and golds are very dense, test first, you may not need to put white down first, save yourself a layer of paint...

Welcome Mr. Corvette...

Hi Mike. I do believe I saw 3 of those 4 at the GSL... - Mark

That looks GREAT! You took a wonderful kit and really brought it to life, and kicked it up a few notches. Very Well Done... - Mark

Listening Gregg? Hmmmm.... Sounds familiar... - Mark

Yeah, after a month of work, and when I thought it was finished, I didn't like the way it looked on the mocked up chassis/body. Nothing really noticeable to probably anyone but me. I knew it would haunt me if I didn't re-do it. Still have the "old" one, just not right for this project. I was able to reuse the uprights and the wiper assemblies, but I had to refinish the uprights. Negligible difference, but worth the effort to me...

Scratchbuilt from mostly brass and some aluminum. The main frame and wipers are brass, soldered together. The upright stays are aluminum as well as the machined hardware. (Even has a washer system.) The C/F is Scale Motorsport Hi-Def. About 40 parts in this assembly. While it may resemble the standard configuration of a Super Seven windshield, it is very different, especially when you consider the kit I started with uses a little frameless deflector type...

Very nice attention to detail and overall workmanship. Definitely one to watch, keep us posted...

As Mike noted, it is actually my Seventh Seven. And thanks Jairus, I hope this will be my best 7 yet...

Welcome stranger...

A Radiator Scratchbuilt. Three row. Mostly made of aluminum, some brass, some steel for the core. 67 pieces make up the shell, core, core support, fittings/hardware, cap and petcock... Couple custom decals too... - Mark

The most important tool used is a metal ruler. A good accurate ruler is very important for making sure dimensions are correct. And get a really BIG one too...

"Overhaul" it! But try not to pimp it...

Very believable conversion. I like that a lot! Great color combo too. The hood scoop on the mock up does look less imposing. Makes me want to make a "new" BRAT... - Mark

Actually, over 19 months, pushin' 20... - Mark

Wasn't me/us. I scale stuff down. The "big ruler" in the above post is a Photoshop gag made by Steve Boutte. It is me and my ruler, but it's not a "real" picture... - Mark

...for the Seven... Alternator 44 scratchbuilt parts and 4 custom made decals. Masters and Slave Seven individual machined parts in the Brake Master Cylinder. The reservoir was machined from leftover casting resin. The rest is mostly aluminum. All machined aluminum except the machined left over cast resin reservoir, and machined soft plastic seal under it. Seven pieces for the master, eight pieces for the slave. Wheels Still have to make the center caps and valve caps, yes there are valve cores in there and they move, no, they don't hold air... Machined a master for the center and cast it in resin, the rest of each wheel is machined. NOS Bottle Over a dozen machined parts. The gauge has a needle, and a lens. The blow off valve is bronze and aluminum, the safety cable was wound from some very fine wire. Note the 7 faceted knob, (it is for my seventh Super Seven), and locking hardware too. Made the decals, of course... - Mark

Well thank you everyone, here's some answers... Being a decal artist (Scale-Master Decals), I made decals for the stitching, I'm not crazy enough to stitch that by hand, (or am I?). The process for making the female splines is called Broaching, basically mashing the design into the part, similar to how some sockets are made. The big ruler is made by setting my Shrink Ray Gun on reverse, (1200%) and just zapping my 6 inch machinist scale. (I can shrink it back down for storage.) And as you can see in this photo, it's 6 feet long... I'll post some other goodies for this project in another thread...

Scratchbuilt, around 20 parts. Mostly aluminum. I broached the splines into the receiver so they match the splines on the shaft. The red button on the right is for the nitrous. Even made a plastic wire guide to keep the switch wires from dangling loose. (Note the stitching on the faux leather grip.) The horn button has a cloisonne Seven logo in it... - Mark

That's lookin' mean! One bad fish... - Mark

Yep. That's what the big ruler says... It's for that Super Seven... - Mark