Scale-Master

Nope, not for big rigs... Machined the horns, hardware and filter parts. The red rings are "plastic" snap on items to hold the debris screens on, actually machined from aluminum, (what else?). SMS HiDef C/F on the mount plate. Still working on the filter part of the air box... Thought I'd include the "big" ruler in a shot...

Actually it is a Caterham 7, but looks very much like a Lotus Seven. More encompassing pictures soon... Gordon is a beer. The real questions are, is it in the bottle, out of the bottle, or "filtered"? We have Gordon Biersch restaurants out here...

Wise words indeed...

Question from a newbee to machining: How did you make the radius in the transition from narrow to wide? Any special trick? No special trick. Of course use the regular "measure twice cut once" rule. (I usually measure more than twice...) You can cut your own tool to create the desired fillet or radius. Grind the radius into the tool and set it up in your holder to cut the angle and the inside radius at the same time. I hope that's clear... And Thank You!

And muffled too... More machined aluminum, and some wadding for the glass pack...

I have seen some of these cars when they were fresh, still smelled like wet paint, and they looked good. But months later when I saw them again and the paint and filler materials had cured, they looked sad. Shrinkage, orange peel, ghosting, waves, you name it, all the things that would get a model dismissed from a serious model contest had manifested themselves since the chemical products did not have a chance to cure in the short time the cars were built.

Injectors actually. 30 plus parts in the "rear" one (actually in the foreground & left) and not quite as many in the forward one (right). So far... The main throttle bodies are all that are used from the kit, (modified). The red & black switch is one of the actuator switches for the NOS system. The synchronizing adjustment screws have springs around them to keep them from moving on their own, they also have Phillips heads...

I'm from the era of American Graffiti...

Thanks guys. The first small gauge on the right is a vacuum gauge. The sweep is reversed from the other gauges. Not sure why Auto Meter does it that way, I have Sun vacuum gauges in my real cars and they work with the more traditional clockwise sweep. But I copied the real deals, so that's how it had to be. As for the toggle switches. I machined the hex and the recepticle out of aluminum, then I made the toggle and stuck it in the hole...

SMS HiDef C/F decal, clear coated and color sanded. The dash panel itself is a reworked kit part, not much of it left though. The rest is all scratchbuilt...

That's exactly where I did my "shopping"! Thanks... - Mark

Thanks guys. Yes, I do have to use reading glasses now, no microscope though. Average sized hands that stay the same size, tweezers are helpful. And that is a very high compliment indeed Daniel, thank you very much.

Here is the gauge set I made for the Super 7, in no particular order. Auto Meter Ultralite series. Everything is scratchbuilt. I created the gauge faces and the needles are parts, not decals... Here is a shot of one of the smaller ones and it's lens, (machined from 1/4 inch thick acrylic sheet): And the "Arm Nitrous" dash switch...

More scratchbuilding and machining. Been working on the new dash for the Super Seven. More specifically the gauges right now. They are going to be Auto Meter. I'm working on the internals now. More later...

Looking good Ismael! Great job on the oil tank too!

That sounds very cool Bob. Hmmm, a German car built to look like an American icon converted to look like an Italian icon... Would it get a prancing calf on the fender?

Thanks everyone. I re-read my description of the engine I plan to use and I realized it reads like I am just turboing the 1.9L 4 cylinder. That engine is being replaced by something else, that will have the turbo. Not a 4 cylinder even. And I'm back to work on the 7 so I have no idea when this little pup will be done, like soooo many other projects I always seem to have the energy to start...

Baby '73 Vette, sort of... The nose (not shown) is an endura style closer to a '73 Vette and I'll keep the rear metal bumpers. The engine is not going to be the stock 1.9L 4 banger. It will have a turbo. Just a minor diversion from the heavy duty concentration work required for the Super Seven, been tinkering with this almost for a month a few minutes or an hour at a time a few times a week. Tamiya Camel Yellow, it's pretty loud in the direct sun... And it is an original AMT kit, that's what they are for, building, at least to me...

Very nice styling!

Looks real nice! Tell us about your treatment of the rims, they have a very realistic appearance...

That was a Countach, right? If it is the same tooling as the Fujimi kit, check the overall height of the engine assembly before final fitting of the body or the engine cover (hood) probably won't close all the way. All of the Fujimi Countach's I've built had that problem and I suspect it is the same tool. Some sanding or filing of the air cleaner and carbs is all that was needed, but is much easier to do before than after...

Looks bigger than life in person too...

It is a very impressive piece, but isn't more of "large" model than a "large scale" model, after all it's "only" 1/24 scale... That's a lot o'resin...

And the headlights are ready to be mounted. SMS Hi-Def C/F on the rims... There are bulbs in them, but they don't light up.

Yes. And digging through a real one...