Smart-Resins

I think that is what I read? If you want, GZive me your email and Ill send you the pic that way.

If this works, here is a couple Logghe chassis

What style are looking for? I am currentlyworking on a old mustang funny car in 1/16 scale. Ihave had a bunch of help fromthe guys on straightlinemodeler. They even provided me with some side shots of the loghe(spelling??) chassis from the 60's. Is that what you need?

Im liking that Dave!!

That putty will be what I have to try next.Any tips on how to use that stuff?? Also any brands to shy away from?? I know I found some Bondo glazing putty at Wally World??

I find that mixing it with the proper amount of hardner seems to give it a slightly smoother consistancy. Also gets more maroonish. I see that it is styrene and resins, and cleans up with laquor thinnner, so I may try to play around with it some. Other wise,I think I may want to try either the spot putty or the liquid resin stuff. That may give me more what I am looking for wich is a smooth thin film for filling small areas,or slowly building up on larger areas.Thanks Bill

Since I am working with a 1/16 scale body, and most of my areas were give or take, 1/2" and the biggest being 3" on the hood area, I cut down some scrap styrene to about a 1" paddle figuring this would give me a area to feather with. I can say that it was very grainy and goopy. Also it did not stick to all of my areas, but have to admit this may have been my fault as after primering, I did not scuff the paint job?? As thick as it was though,I can not see spreading it with a tooth pick?? Maybe putting on a tic tack size glob at best??

Alright I have done the leap and bought some Bondo to work with and try something new. It does sand easier then liquid plasticfor sure!! However, Imixed itup, using less hardener then recomended by the company to make the work time longer as suggested by fellow modelers. That even seemedtodomefine as I had almsot 5 minutes to slap it on. However,itwas very thick and goopy and hard to put onina smooth coat.I had toglop it onand gave me more sanding to do and was harder to get it to a smooth even covering. Is there a way to maybe thin it down and make it spread smoother for a more even smoother coat??

Very nice indeed!!

Thanks.I was hoping you would reply. I was hoping for some new parts like custom tail light, mirror, maybe a deep bullet style head light, better brake caliper, how about that old tool bag?? Oh well. I still love your bike builds by the way!! Buy the way does anyone have cast older Harley motorslike pan head or anything??

Thanks guys. I was very temptedto get the bondo after having no luck with finding evercoat. Seeing the ultra, gold silver ect. was a little confused. But ya guys say keep tothe basics and thus I will. Mr.Obsessive, thanksfor the pics, they help show the feathering. I like the idea to keep to glueing my edges together then using either styrene or my liguid plasticto strengthen the joint, then smooting things out with the bondo. See, I am working on the 1/16 mustang funny car conversion and havine trouble with the hood area, so decided I would try the bondo here as the liquid plastic is way to hard to easily sand down.You guys are great.

Bought this 1/8 Harley snap together to steal some parts from on another build. Just could not bring myself to chuck the poor frame. Way too much junk to do a good chopper from though I thought so just let it sit and eat away at me. I finally decided that I just had to do something with the old junk frame. So here it is in its rough state. Now where I might be going with it??? I am thinking flat head V8 trike!! Use the old Triumph front forks and a old saddle style seat?? http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.p...q=si&img=11

Alright guys I wanted to try evercoats filler, but no one local sells it and it is too expensive to buy online in the gallon size with shipping. Soo....... guess I have to settle with Bondo from Wally World. My question is what is best,the regular,the silver, the ultra gold or the goop resin stuff?? I have always used theliquid cement and plastic before, but figure it would be cheaper and better and easierfor the body filler, so help me choose what to use.Thanks.

Alright Ill come in late here.I have tried many times todo two tone paint jobs using brush on masking, BMF and painters tape and all I do is gob up the edges somuch that I cant even rub them out. I need to know the best methods of creating two tone paint jobs PLEASE!! Also what is this parafilm I keep hearing about and where can one get it ect.?

Looking for a updated list and maybe pics if available for parts available from Miniatures of Maryland for the RM choppers. Or if anyone knows of other companies as well offering parts.Thanks guys.

Hey there guys, I got this link from lsm site. This is the home page ( www.minitunning.com ) and heres the page with parts and prices for ordering ( www.minitunning.com/prod_bikes.htm ). I have emailed the guy and they have plansto cast some of the other rims in the 300 rear tire width and are willing to take ideas or specfial orders as well. I have not seen the quality yet, but hope to place a order in a couple of weeks when they finish the 5 or 6 spoke 300 rear rim. I know abunch of poeple have been looking for a 300 available in resin and well,heres the first on the market that I have seen yet.

hey there. Got yourPM, but the site will not allow me to reply. It states error 243, debug mode?? So if you can email me at drag (underscore) n (underscore) rods @ yahoo (dot) com I would appreciate it.

Very nice clean build!!

Very nice clean build!!

Bluesmark,Hobby Town USA, Hobby Lobby and the locals are all out and tell me that it is on a indefinate back order??

Yes, I have always used Tenax-7R liquid cementfor modeling and when it came to filling I had a seperate bottle with cut up sprue thrown in to make a liquid plastic.Works great(providing you put it on sparingly as it is still a hot liquid glue).Latley I have not been able to find my glue more then likely due to goverment regulations against stupid kids huffing??

I believe Perry's Resin has those.Someone on LargeScaleModeler mastered them and sent them in to him for duplication purposes. Check with him. If not, Ill ask someone and find out for sure.

Here is a old frame I made that has been bounced around for a while. While I am waiting some stuff for my mustang flopper, needed something to work on.Decided to pull this one out.Was originally going to be a chopper, but here I go with a drag bike.Created the front and rear rims and scratched the forks this morning.Need to do some clean up on the frame, makemotor mounts and rear wheel brackets and wheelie bar brackets then we can get going. Just need to decide on a tank.

The anodized valve covers look more like the pontiac covers on some of the bigger kits. Wich in the day, some racers had switched and used them on chebys for a "better look". Like wise I may be wrong, but believe those two holes in your intake are that, for your water coolent. Again used for racing purposes while omitting the water pump. I personally like the pontiac covers, but the red on them does not look right with the motor. Maybe if ya stripped them and chromed them!!Any other pics??

Looks as though a trailer would have to be scratch built then. I have been contemplated to find a die-cast, but I really want to build one. Ill just keep looking.