Smart-Resins

Unfortunately I did not meet my guideline.Stillneedstobe plumbed and wired,rear tires sanded and painted, pipes placed and decals places.But it was otherwise put together and painted with finally a show quality paint job without polishing!!I believe in dupli-color automotive paint now!!Heres updated pics.More to come soon.

Hows these fit in here??

I got a 1/8 scale sealed Revell of Germany Triumph Tiger 100 at a local show recently for $9!! So, had to go and get a Revell snap tight 1/8 springer softail kit to sttel some parts from.It aint a realbike unless is has some Harley on it.HEHEHEI will be doing a Dupli-color black and white paint scheme, old skool style.I am using the springer forks and cut down gas tank.Stretched the triumph front tire over the Harley spokes.Keeping the triumph rear tire and spokes.Will be wrapping the seat in leather.Will either cut the rear fender down, or swap and put the front fender on the rear??.I already have the frame painted black as you see.I cut the front mount in half and slid both halves into the tube.I can do this since this is a snap tight piece, the other pieces had mounting pins to help hold it altogether and I will add some Tenax to them.Keep posted as this one wont take too long!!

Here I am building a RM chopper into a harley powered trike.Will be doing using dupli-colors deep jewel (metalic) green.

I will be building a 1/12 RM chopper into a v-8 blown vette 427 powered trike. here is a mock up pick of parts. The frame will have to be scratched built. Any suggestions or comments??

For my triumph, I am keping frame stock.I however just grabbed a revell 1/8 scale snap tight HD for the springer forks and headlight.Not sureon the tank yet as I want a smooth tank, but yet want to keep a triumph look??Asfor the aces wild, changedmy mind.Sawa nice pair of rims sitting there today and decided they would go on the back, yes, a trike and use the custom front rim from the kit.Started both tonight HEHEHE.The triumph will be black and white as the pic I will be shooting for.The trike I am thinking maybe either maroon or a deep metalic green??I know red sticks out better at the shows though!!

Wow!! I like how you changed the rear end.I thought those had the swinger rear.Good choice changing the handles too!!New rims or just blasted and re-chromed?? I bought anoth RM chopperto build in the future as well with a kit stock front end again old school with wire rims.Phewy on those new style rims.I got I one set for anyone from the Aces wild kit.

Looking good,nice stance.Would love to see the finished product!

Bob, that is just too funny.I do believe that most spray paint cans state "WARNING, CONTENTS UNDER PRESSURE. dO NOT PUNCTURE!!" I believe they say that anyways and as you found out, for a really good reason.Ever try putting a can in a fire??Just like a huge bottle rocket, but much more colorful.HEHEHE :oops:

Barry you found that bike too.LOL.Watch how you ride that thing or you might end up with a woody.LOL I obtained a 1/8 scale Revell Triumph Tiger 100 kit sealed this weekend for $9.00.YAHOO!! Here is what I kinda plan on doing with it.

Ijustbought a gallon of that purplepower last week at WallMart to fillmy bin up more to cover a 1/16 scale chevy body for $4

Looks great.Love those pipes and dropped tank!!

I have found that Purple Power from Walmart is great at removing paint other then duplicolor primer for some reason.I have not used any tamiya paint so I dont know about that.Otherwise it works better then I have found castrol or other brake cleaners to work and better then the alcohal.I had someold rims nothing would take the paint off, but thats sure did.It is the best and fastes thing I have found for removing chrome as well!!.

awsome!!

very cool!!

I am liking this very much!!

Alright guys.This is not really on my bench yet, but have collectedmost parts needed other then bike kit itself and some plastic tubing.This is the general idea of what I want as seen mocked up here.Going to get wider treaded tires in the rear and no white wall in the front.I am trying to decide long handle bars around the motor and create a steering mechanism from the front forks to the rear and then a normalset of handle bars??What do you guys think??AZny suggestions??

As for the modeling paint, I have always tried to stray away from the clearsdue to possible yellowing.I too have haited to build a car then paint it becuase I would "ruin" it.I could never lay down a good paint.I just recently tried using dupli-color automotive paint and layed a near perfect job and also tried thier clear(hope it does not yellow?)Very smooth and shiny.No wet sanding or polishing.It is on a drag, so not much body there.On my next one I will try wet sanding and polishing to see howmuch better I can get it.I do warm the cans(not hot) only using hot tap water, and of course I do use primer and sand that once or twice to make sure the body is smooth to start with.

Slight update.Recieved a springer front end off of a shaker trike and fits real nice.The front wheel is done and on with brake disc.Pad still to be placed.The rear fender has been rounded.Working on a cogged belt drive for both primary and secondary drives.Once these are done they will go into rubber and be available.Wont do toomuch more until then other then paint the body.I am thinking a metalic blue with a chrome frame??Think those would help accent the white walls and say old Skool for sure!! heres a quick mock up with the front forks.Dont worry Hermit, I have a build wanting those forks.Perhaps when the drives are done Ill swap ya!!

heres a slight update.the chassis is (rails) are painted metalic pearl black and ready for all of the whistles and bells to be put on.Still need to finish the body sanding and priming then painting.I never have had a good paint job in my life!!I used dupli-color automotive paint on the seat tub and it came out glass smooth and about perfect!!Very pleased.Almost there!!heres two quick progress mock ups.More to come real soon!!

Depending on the model and how the iterior tub mates with the body, I tend to go with thin clear styrene stock and make a card stock template of the window and once satisfied, transfer it to the clear stock and cut.This way I can make the side windows appear semi rolled(partially) down as well to help make the model look more realistic.If the tub fits well, but has a slight gap, then the window treatment fits without a problem as I tend to glue it inbetween the two pieces.

yes Jairus is right.If you use the stain on anything other then wood it basically does not "soak in" thus does not dry completly and will leave you a sticky gouey mess wich Im sure would be a real mess to clean up and strip.Stain actually is a mixture of colors mixed with wichever base the company uses.It soaks into the wood and the base will eventually evaporate leaving the color mixtures in the wood grain.I work in a custom cabinet shop and we have been asked to stain plastic and stain over paint.We always have to tell them that we can not do it.We had one customer that just absolutly had to have us stain his painted white cabinets.We had him sign a waiver form on the cabinets before we began.When we got done he was upset at the outcome and wanted us to re-do them.He was more upset when he had to pay us extra to redo them because we had him sign the waiver and he realized that DUH, we must know what we are talking about LOL.Now if you do balsa wood or bass wood panels for the model as they are readily available in most good hobby stores(other types too), they take it very well.I suggest to do your stain in that case, then a sealer on both sides of the wood since it is so thin to assure the stain remains in the wood well, then use a 30 to not make it too shiny, but give it some shine as the real cars lost some shine due to the weather conditions they remained in all of the time.I hope this helps.

I cant help you there, but I have been searching for drag racing forums for specific info on conecting two motors inline.I know they use a double toothed sprocket on the clutch plate, but really need better info like what size, how many teath, how is that connected to the rear motor??So.........If you find a good forum, PLEAZZZEEEEEEE let me know.Thanks.

I got this kit Don Prudhomme's Wynn's Winder from a local friend for free.It was started(the motor and frame) but was glued with very little glue so ended up when I took it apart all but like brand new thank the Lord.I decided to shorten the frame and only have a rear body style nastolgic T/F rail.I cut two sections out of the frame and bent the top rail from the front portion up to meat the rear portion.I then had to slightly modify a couple of the cross braces to fit properly.I glued the body panels together and platic puttied them.I then had to pie cut the front of the body to lower the front edge to match the new lowered section of the frame.Since the frame mod also made the frame skinnier there, also had to section the top of the front body panel 1/8" to make it match in width.Everything else will remian box stock.I will paint the frame black and the body Dupli-colorBordeaux Red. Here are some shots of my progress.I hope to have it completed for a local show next Saturday?! Thanks for looking.

I only realy have two.The first is the Road and Track larger scale Shelby Gt Mustang.Though it is available, it is rather high priced for me!! The second is the large scale 78/79 Turbo Trans Am wich again goes way too much for my blood.