Jump to content
Model Cars Magazine Forum

allecb

Members
  • Posts

    63
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by allecb

  1. oh nah, it can be revell. i was just saying that the easy to find mach's/challengers and such are boring kits after youve seen the first 2 dozen builds. is that scion straight from the kit?
  2. a lot of classic cars on here...and a lot of mustangs/camaros/challengers. but i dont see too many tuner cars. i posted my 350z. and i posted my audi r8. i just saw someone br-z down the list. i'd love to see people post their cars that arent the revell kits that we see time and time again!
  3. awesome! did the car come out of the box that low? or did you adjust it?
  4. Thx everyone! Yup wheels came out of the box. I will try tamiya. I wanted a 370z from tamiya but I have to go online for that.
  5. Glad to hear I wasn't the only one with the bumper problem. When I first put it together it went great!!! But then when I tried to put the lense cover on, it wouldn't snuggle in place. So then I started detaching.. And it was never the same! For a 40 dollar kit I want it to look nice
  6. my first aoshima kit. i LOVE the z cars, so i really wanted this car to be as perfect as i could personally make it. im not a pro, but im not a beginner. ive built about 15-20 models, and im 22. the paint on this car came out AMAZING at first..but with handling, i got a few smudges here and there that mysteriously wont go away..and i screwed up the tail end a lot, because the light covers on one side werent fitting right, and i had to keep pulling off already-glued parts, over and over to try ot get it..but i just had to stop and decided to just settle before i made it even worse. overall, this kit was great... ill be looking into tamiya and aoshima more often. VERY ANNOYED however. the kit came with a missing door handle. the tree part was there, but it looked as if it broke off during packaging. :[ one other problem is, when i put the body onto the chassis..it doesnt really want to stay together. if i were to grab the car, the body would come with it. i think i have something not matching up..you can tell in one of the side-view pics of the car, that the wheels are closer to the front wheel well more than they are the back. ?? but if i try to mess with it, i may push it to far to the back, and break off the rear bumper (the area with the glue-bomb-fitting issue mess)
  7. It says orange but the box has it looking red. And all 350z I see on the road have red. I think I'll do red but I will invest in orange.
  8. i tested my results on some smaller parts of the model with the "testors clear gloss lacquer overcoat" the parts with the overcoat almost didnt look as smooth or finished as the parts with just laquer paint. i cant explain it. its like orange peel kind of, but i'd rate it at a 0.5/10 scale for how much orange peel it has. ahh, i dont know you'd have to see in person cause i dont think a camera would even pick it up. maybe im spraying too far away? maybe i should have warmed up the can in some water? theres no ball in the spray can, usually "rattle"-cans have balls in them? heh.. maybe i should pick up the skills of wet sanding. edit: after a second coat of clear, it seemed to have smoothed out. i think ill shoot three layers of clear on the car and call it good.
  9. Also.. Decals before or after clear coat
  10. I heard some clear will yellow over time? But with mica blue I dot think thatd matter? I sprayed the paint tonight.. How long should I wait to clear coat? And how many coats
  11. Building a 350z with tamiya ts50 paint. Gorgeous color! Just want to have it shine more now. I have testors high gloss enamel overcoat. I also have testors clear gloss lacquer overcoat. Will either of these work for my tamiya lacquer paint? I've had them for awhile and almost never put clear over my models so I don't know much about them. Are those decent? Or do I need to get something else?
  12. all i have is a little tiny jar of testors flat white, and a spray can of flat black. how the F am i supposed to do a 10:1 ratio? hmmm....i think i might just paint the interior a color i like instead instead of trying to mix a potion of colors.
  13. and my kit is missing the left door handle.
  14. building an aoshima 350z fairlady 2007 kit, and im painting all the various parts before i build, and i approach this. http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/5673/photo6ns.jpg "A" means mixed color. what does that mean??!!? the two colors in question are flat white, and flat black. do they want me to put these two paints together, swirl them around and paint the whole piece with this? im having a hard time... ALSO, theres literally two tiny pieces that require clear orange. i dont want to go out and spend 3-6 dollars on literally two brush-strokes worth of paint.. i do have orange. but not clear orange. any ideas? its for a taillight.
  15. thanks for all the kind words and tips. i do know i have to slow down, i just get so ancy knowing that im getting closer to the final product. i didnt have any idea about stripping the paint off so theres better adhesion. and the toothpick is suuuuuuch a good idea.
  16. so i was browsing the forum because my last model i had issues with glue and i learned that elmers glue is great for putting windshields in, and not getting glue everywhere. also, the whole toothpick method is an amazing idea as well. but what about headlights or tail lights? theres nothing worse than having a model look amazing, then you go to glue on the headlights, and now they are all fogged up and look fake and horrible. any tips for these? would elmers glue work the same? i was thinking about making using some of my testors gloss coat/clear gloss..would that work like a glue?
  17. just built my audi r8. this was such a frustrating build. first i used tamiya lacquer paints for the first time ever... im usually used to enamel. well, the paint was incredible! drying so fast, and not dripping everywhere. no primer, but it turned out good for what im used to, and the color is what i wanted. paint was really good until i had to complete this rotten model. pieces didnt fit well. headlights were too big for the front a little bit. the engine-window-hinge-doo-hickey was odd, and directions sucked at explaining how to properly fit it.. glue bombed that whole area. windows didnt fit right, and i got glue all over those as well.. (the car is even missing one window. im gonna tear the other one off) the body didnt even fit on the chassis together completely. the wheels dont have a great stance. the decals for some reason wouldnt ever stay on the car. the mesh included was horrible to work with. the part that DID come out very well, was the interior. my lines and pin-striping looks fairly decent, but i couldnt get a great shot. infact none of the pics are that great, it was all with my iphone.... i wish i could learn how to glue less though. how do you guys build a model, without getting any smudges, or glue-fingerprints everywhere!?!?!? car looks really good in this pic!!!
  18. yeah on the real car they are. on the model however theres clear dots on the actual clear lens itself, and the instructions say to paint on the lens. i dont expect it to look photo-realistic, i just didnt want to have kindergarten blobs on the headlights. the toothpick idea is a good one!
  19. so the directions say to paint the little dots on the headlights flat white. but ive seen an audi r8 or two posted on here, where they just "blobbed" the dots on, and it looked horrible. whats the best way to make it look precise and clean? http://www.4pwp.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/09/2009-Audi-R8-Headlights-1920x1440.jpg
  20. i have not opened it yet, because i knew as soon as it was opened, i'd want to get into business. any tips on the build, other than my q, btw?
  21. so i got the audi r8 for christmas, apparently my girlfriend couldnt find me the 370z. but its okay, cause this is my second favorite car, and second build i wanted to do. but before i start building, i am curious on how to do the panel part thats behind the doors. how do i go about getting the part after the door to be black, and the rest of the car another color? (i think im going to go with white :] )
  22. when i browse peoples models here, and when they take pictures of the process, i will often see people having the body of the car with only primer (or just no paint at all) completely assembled before they go on to paint. well not COMPLETELY assembled, but all the parts that will be painted the same color are already glued together.. is this the majority of the way to paint the cars? because ever since i started building, i always paint first, THEN glue them together..is the other way easier/better? also, you dont have problems putting the chassis and all the interior..basically the complete bottom half of the car into the cars frame, without accidently popping off the bumpers or anything? because sometimes the final parts of putting my model together, its a real tight squeeze and im sure if i had every exterior part glued together first, things would be popping off..
×
×
  • Create New...