[The recession hasn't hit everyone]

It's one of those things you don't like, but if you saw it in real life, it would be different.

[The recession hasn't hit everyone]

That would be fun! To drive off a cliff!

[Real or Model #191 FINISHED!]

Harry's trying to make us think it's blatantly real, so I'm gonna say model

[Any news on Revell '67 Chevelle pro street?]

Does it still have the ugly tail panel?

[what gives with the chat?]

I'm sure someone noticed it. Maybe Gregg can't get his car off the chat hose

[what gives with the chat?]

Already been mentioned:

http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=57914

[Where does your nostalgia lie?]

70s! I love listening to some good ole Rush and ZZ Top, but then I really only like 60s and early 70s cars

[Anyone here play guitar?]

Please disregard the above of trading Pro Tech parts for the pedal. Harry said I should not post a trade of my parts for another subject not being model car related. Sorry Harry my intension was not to make this trade a "Craig's List" trade as you stated in my other post under "Swap, Trade or Free"

I'd help you, but I'm cheap. I use Behringer pedals.

[1968 Dodge Dart Question]

I never had any problems, however I left the quarter windows out because I had trouble with them.

['69 Camaro Z/28 - For Gearz Contest - Update 4/26/12]

Thanks for the compliments

Well, I got the body painted! (Sorry for dark photos...dark day in Indiana)

Now, I can't decide on stripes. White, black, or none at all? I like it all three ways. I just can't decide. I'm learning towards no stripes, one less thing for me to screw up

['69 Camaro Z/28 - For Gearz Contest - Update 4/26/12]

Thanks guys

Niko, I'm using this one:

I actually considered Hugger Orange with white stripes, however I changed my mind to Fathom green at the last minute.

['69 Camaro Z/28 - For Gearz Contest - Update 4/26/12]

Thanks everyone, I appreciate it

[The one model you are most proud of.]

Is this you your revell entry Andy? Nice Job !!!

Thanks! No, this isn't my entry, I believe the Fairlane isn't even on the list. I'm building the '69 Camaro for the contest though

[The one model you are most proud of.]

You are seeing that correctly, the lettering is raised to replicate a stamped plate. It is reflective with proper (also reflective) tags too.

How the heck did you raise them? Punches I'm assuming?

[Is Model building going to die off after our Generation goes?]

The future of the modling hobby is a home 3d printer. It is going to change everything. You can print out whatever parts you want to build.

I'd rather scratchbuild the parts than screw around with the 3D modeling program

['69 Camaro Z/28 - For Gearz Contest - Update 4/26/12]

Hey all, I'm entering the 1969 Camaro in the Revell Gearz contest. I'm trying many new things on this build, so far so good.

Almost finished chassis:

Firewall (Complete with lettering ) :

Almost finished engine:

Almost finished interior:

The biggest challenge is...I got the kit on April 8th and I have to have it done by May 15th

Paint is probably going to be Fathom Green with white stripes.

Thanks for looking

[The one model you are most proud of.]

Probably this one:

[Is Model building going to die off after our Generation goes?]

I myself don't know of any kids or young adults building models. They seem to prefer the video games to building.

I'm 13, and I haven't even been on my PS3 in over a month. This past month I've gotten more building done than I ever have.

[Rant with question]

Are you adequately thinning your paint?

[How would one...]

You might want to try a clear lacquer instead.

The only reason I used enamel is because I'm out of lacquer

[How would one...]

Andy, I wouldn't worry about a Polishing Kit for that paint in the pictures.

It looks like you have had any number of things go wrong here and I don't think polishing will correct them.

High humidity will fog Enamel Clears (you don't say what brand, manufacturer or even Aerosol or AirBrush) in a heartbeat.

You can see how rough your Clear is from the tiny air bubbles bursting and leaving little bitty craters.

Or,

Gases still evaporating from the color layer, or even beneath,

Or,

How long did you wait in between color coat and Clear?

Was the model clean and dry when you Cleared it?

Lots and lots of possibilities but you would need to give a detailed accounting of your procedure.

Honestly, I would strip it. Give it a better try.

CadillacPat

Not high humidity, around 60 degrees F here. It's cheap Dollar General clear, straight from the can. The rest of the body turned out great, except that bit of fogging on the roof. The car was painted with lacquer, and had well over a month to cure. So that's definitely not the problem. The model was indeed clean and dry.

I'm not stripping it, I finally got a somewhat decent paint job! :lol:

[How would one...]

But Andy,

You just wrote this in your reply to the AirBrush Rant thread,

"Art, I can easily afford a really good airbrush, but I'm saving up for other things."

You can buy 200 - 12000 grade Wet/Dry Sandpaper in any good Hafdware Store for about 90 cents a sheet.

Or you can order small individual emery cloths in these grades for about 3 bucks apiece through MicroMark.

So, it looks like a priority thing,

A good AirBrush, proper sanding tools or,------other things!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

CadillacPat

The cheapest I found was a $16 Micro Mark set...that was only a quick search. I don't really have much access to a hardware or hobby shop by the way.

[How would one...]

Then you should buy a polishing kit.

Kinda pricey for me though

[How would one...]

You need to start with the coarsest grit polishing cloth which removes the orange peel first. You need to get the paint surface even first, then use progressively finer grit polishing cloths to make finer and finer scratches, until the naked eye can no longer see the scratches. Even with 12,000 grit, there are still scratches.

The only problem is though...I don't have anything between 2000 and 12000 grit

[New guy]

Welcome, nice builds!