ScrappyJ

Very nicely done!!!

Exceptional work, Clay!

Outstanding work, CK!

Coming long nicely, Chris!

This is just so bad a$$! Keep,the progress coming, Codi.

Very nice Tyrone!

Another good concept, Jeff! I've never actually tried that (or what I described earlier for that matter), but do believe that David Morton tried it and still had some kinking (again that is secondhand information). Another option with the same concept, is to use solder as the medium inside of the tubing in order to prevent kinking. I do believe Morton tried that and it worked for him. The cool thing is that once you make the bend, you can simply heat the tube in order to allow the solder to flow out. Again, I've never tried any of these, so it sounds like your process does work.

Hey, Clay- I'm not wanting to hijack your thread, but I thought I would put my two pennies of thought on e exhaust. I seem to recall tat hat Sherm may have made some zoomies he did on one of his more recent projects and he had actually bent the rod before drilling the tip of the exhaust. If I'm mistaken, then I apologize to him. However, I thought about how something like tat could be done. The problem, I think, with drilling the tip and then trying to bend, is that unless you get it dead-on (where as the bender is sliding on the drilled portion of the rod), you might end up with a hollow portion back crimping and defeating the concept. If you were to take a piece of brass (since it is a harder metal), and center drill in the lathe, the same size drill bit you were going to use to do it on the tips, then come back in with a second drill bit, but this time the size of the OD of huge rod, it might keep the drill centered on the tip. With the second drill (the size of the OD of the rod), I would only plunge it the depth of the tip of the zoomie before it curves to go up to the head. Once you've made that tool and marked your drill bit so that it doesn't plunge al the way down through the zoomie's bend. You could even try putting the zoomie in the vice and use he mill to help keep it steady as you plunge. I don't know if it makes sense what I'm saying, or if it would even work, but like I said, I thought I would add my two pennies worth of thoughts.

Correct, JB, I used rods and not tubes.

Thanks fellas!

Some more pics. It is difficult to tell with my crappy pictures and all, but the two outer gauges (oil pressure and volt) are notched so that they fit onto the radius of the two main, center gauges (the tach and speedo). That idea came from Mike Lawrence to emulate the exhaust pipes on some of the Porshce cars. Again, due to the crappy pictures, you can't tell that the rotors have been crossed drilled and vented. In huias is picture, the rotor is sitting on the post-it I wrote some of the math on for dividing the drilled holes. Because I wanted to simulate a "carbon" look for the rotors, I used some solid blank, black, resin stock that David Morton creates when he is luring resin and has left over. The molds for the stock are made from deep-sockets. Here are the rotors with the rotor hats. Again sorry for the poor quality of the pictures that the I-phone produces Here is one of them in process and ready to be cut off. While the machining process does create a chalky-looking residue, once you wash it with some Dawn and rinse it, that residue goes away

Hahaha...I know what you mean about the cost, it is pretty steep; however, worth the cost. I would definitely get the DRO! I had the zero-resettable in my mill, but once I got the DRO (i believe Mike Lawrence, GT Mike, encouraged me to get them) I've been hooked ever since. Don't get me wrong, the basically serve the same purpose, but the DRO makes it so much easier. I'll go and check out the package and let. You know my thoughts (only MY personal thoughts and not meant to be expert advise). Also, on Sherline's site, there is a monthly sale of about 20% off and sometimes you can get the mill, lathe and/or both at a more reasonable price. Looks like a good set-up. When I started some 20+ years ago, i started with just the lathe, milling attachment, rotary table and other accessories like the vice. I wish I cold have gotten everything at once, but couldn't afford it. Some items that I'm not sure I saw in huge package would be: - 1012, Sensitive Drilling Attachment - 3065, Slitting Saw Holder - 3570, Rotating Mill Vise Base With your attention to detail (like many others on here), I get excited when others join the machining fraternity. I can't wait for you to get a set-up to see what you come up with.

Hey, Bill- I hadn't realized you had posted some updates. Can't say anything more than what has already been said, but you know how I feel about your work. While it might take you some time to finish, this is going to be one bad project once completed (shoot, your I individual parts have more in them than most of us mere mortals have in completed projects, haha)! Great work on the rotors and calipers!

Cool project, Frank!

Very cool curbside PM, Darryl!

Awesome job, Jon! I can't wait to see more progress if Hughes build!

Thanks, Codi, I'm just waiting for more progress on the Henry J. That thing is just sick! You have a cool ability to capture realism with things most don't even think about. Very cool indeed! I'm still thinking about a blue. There is a Tamiya blue I like but then David Thibodeau also gave me a blue from from scalefinishes (a Ferrari 524 Azzurro blue) that looks pretty good too. I haven't decided yet which blue. As ALWAYS, thanks for the kind words, Bill!

Thanks for the kind words, fellas! It is good to get back at it, but with Jim's wheels in tow, I had no choice but to get back at it. To say those wheels are the shiznit, is an understatement!

Thanks, Chris! I us the Sherline set up. In my opinion, it is the best for your money, particularly with the amount of accessories they have for their system and the ease of use of those accessories. When you decide, to go for it, let me know and I can tell you what all accessories I think you should go with. Again, thanks for the kind words on the Ghia project!

I like the change, Frank! Well done!

Thanks for the kind words fellas! A pic of fuchs centers that Jim Littiken did for me: I also went ahead and machined a fuel cell for the front (although it IS now mid-engine and better-balanced, I figured the fuel cell in the front would definitely help in that area too). The filler cap looks like it has mesh on it, but it is actually knurled that tiny. I thought it turned out okay, except you really can't tell the difference: Here it is inside of the trunk. Due to space, or lack there of, I had to machine the tank so that it fit down inside of the upper frame for the front. In most cases, I consider myself more lucky than good, because the little notches at the front/bottom of the fuel cell were needed for clearance and dropping the fuel cell in there. The angles actually came out exactly, dead-on: A side/profile pic with the new wheels:

My bad, I'm rapidly approaching 50 and my eyesight is dwindling. I went back in and did see the star next to the topic. Well done, Tim!!!

This is insanely, incredible!!! Perhaps I missed it, but you should have a star next to your topic (don't know who puts them there, but just saying...)! I will definitely be following this one!

After a very trying May and June (personal issues), I finally got back to working on the Ghia. First order of business was reworking the bumpers at Morton's suggestion. There was just too much space between the bumpers and the body of the car, so I whipped out the 'ole putty and filled in the gaps. I agree with Morton that it looks much better: I also had to redo the two trunks (since this is now a mid-engine build, I essentially have two trunk areas). This was what I was working with first (it came out of a Maitso diecast notchback, but fit really well, then I decided to just use it as a pattern for a new one): The new one for the front. I think it's an improvement, though: The rear, which normally would be the hood:

Final product on the late model Camaro looks good, Joe!