traditional

No, I bought a 2'x2'x2' translucent tent and appropriate lights on Ebay........quite inexpensive and, after a bit of experimentation, manage to take reasonable pics no matter what the outdoor weather is like. I still prefer to take pics outdoors in slightly overcast conditions, but at least now, I'm not stymied by the weather.

This 1/25 Aurora 1957-1964 Maserati model kit was built years ago and was one of my first attempts at basecoat/clearcoat. I'm just having some fun taking new pics in my photo-tent.

These two 1/24 '92 Toyotas were completed a while ago (long while ago) but I was just having fun retaking pics using my recent photo tent.The HILUX is pretty much box stock Fujimi but the basic version is modified (using brochure reference) by removing the raised rubber side trim, filling in the sun-roof, fabricating a bench seat, and removing all the delux chrome trim and accessories. The stock basic wheels were pirated from a land cruiser kit, and the 'TOYOTA tailgate lettering' was done with Letraset pressure sensitive lettering. Paint on both models is automotive basecoat/clearcoat. While I like both versions, I'm kind of partial to the 'utility version'. I'm also including a couple of pics of the Hilux with a couple of smaller scale models of virtually the same vehicle.....a 1/43 HI-STORY resin model and a 1/87th version that came in a chocolate egg.

I've just completed this traditional Deuce 5 window by modifying and combining a GMP roadster kit with an incomplete diecast 5 window body. All the parts were stripped of paint and the front window detail had to be modified for proportion by making the top of the window opening less curved (bonding a wire form to the metal body). Simulated rubber running board detail was added to the fenders, and I also added the black top insert detail. I used the wheels from the GMP kit but substituted smaller diameter rear tires from my parts bin since the ones in the kit were a bit oversize in diameter. The simulated Mercury caps are plated fabric snaps. I wanted to use something a bit different for the drive train so I made a tri-carb 348 Chevy from the 409 used in an Ertl 'American Graffiti' '55 Chevy gasser. The tri-carb intake is entirely scratchbuilt including all the fuel lines, carb linkages, filters, etc. the capped header and exhaust system is also scratchbuilt using silver solder and polished aluminum tubing. The interior is done in grey and blue base coat (satin finish) and the exterior paint is custom mixed pearl blue basecoat/clearcoat. The carpeting for the interior and trunk is done in grey felt.

That's simply TOO COOL. I love it.

Hi Bill, The paint on my 2008 HHR is called 'Merlot Jewel Metallic Clearcoat' and the wheels are from Moon Equipment . They carried the only 'Halibrand style' wheels that would fit on Chevy HHRs at the time. There may be others now. I bought the car/truck new in late 2008 when the dealer was having a really hard time selling a 'loaded' panel truck. I've always liked 'sedan deliveries, and here was my chance to have a totally dependable and economical interesting vehicle. It's strictly a toy to me....not a daily driver and it doesn't see even rain, let alone snow. I also have a regular HHR wagon that I use as a daily driver.

I even have mild flames on my HHR panel.

Daihatsu Midget

These relatively simple kits were all built 'box stock' back in 1998 after purchasing them all during a vacation in Singapore. I really enjoy unusual subjects and these 1/32 Arii 3-wheeler kits certainly fit that category nicely. Daihatsu CM10T Daihatsu Tri-Mobile MazdaT2000 Mazda K360

Hi Jurgen, Not only have you overcome the Casadio kit's shortcomings, you've made exemplary models and also, as you always do, photographed them beautifully. Congratulations! I've built a few of them over the years and, like you, I was always amazed that at their high price point, so many of the parts and assemblies were not totally sorted out for fit or completion.. If I remember correctly, the Bugatti had no steering tie-rod connections to the wheels/spindles. I think that their appeal, back in the day, was that they were one of the first companies to supply fairly realistic looking wire wheels on some of their models.

A build from at least 35 years ago. Flames were masked and airbrushed and all the pinstriping was all done by hand with a tiny brush. Moon discs were spun from the bottom of a pop can.....no aftermarket sources back then. Now-a-days, I'd have corrected the windshield proportions, and improved the door alignment, etc. but I tend to leave my old builds just as I originally built them and keep them dust-free in display cases.

Although I live a long distance away from Williams Grove Speedway, it's without a doubt my favorite track and I try to get there at least once a summer......lots of great 410 racing, beautiful location, reasonable price, and NON SMOKING. This year, weather permitting, I'm planning to go on July 29....the same weekend that I go to the car show/toy show in Macungie PA. In the same trip, I also always try to get to the Eastern Museum of Motor Racing in Latimore.......a fabulous racing museum run mostly by dedicated racers. Years ago, my brother and I restored an old midget racer that is now part of our old car collection.

These are both old builds of Gunze Sangyo's Triumph sports cars...a green TR3 and a red TR2. These both come with some 'photo-etch' details including rather strange 'PE' fold together chassis details. I apologize if you've seen these before but I'm enjoying trying out my new 'photo tent' and lights.

A group shot of most of my Dirt race cars. The one to the left rear is a modified Strombecker 'Dirt Champ' slot car that uses my own graphics and added detail.

These are all old builds.....at least 25 years old except for the maroon flamed Monogram midget which is about 40 years old. I may have shown a couple of these on here before, but I've just been trying out my new 'photo tent' and these are fresh pics. Late '60 sprint car modified from Monogram' s 'super Modified Sportsman' Early '70s sprint shortened and modified from AMT's Grant King Racer '60s midget...modified from Monogram's Midget Hot Shot Modified from Monograms original midget kit from the '50s....a basic Curtis midget

I realize that this isn't in the true spirit of this post, but I think this is my only other finished Olds model from the classic '50s/60s era....a traditional full custom '55 Olds done a couple of winters ago.

All old Johans or Excells....builds from at least 25 years ago

Military photo of the Dodge WC series 4X4 Panel truck. During WW 2, Dodge made a plethora of WC series military trucks including 103 of these WC19 panel trucks. My brother, Larry, just supplied me with photos of his now completed 3 month modeling effort...a 1/25 scale 1941/42 Dodge WC19 military 1/2 ton 4X4 panel truck. He tends to build models of vehicles that aren't available as plastic kits or diecast, and this model is mostly fabricated of soldered brass, though a diecast Coca Cola promo became the starting point for the basic panel body. That body shell then required lengthening and re-sculpting, brass door hinges fabricated, and all the internal structure created. Brass was also used for the firewall, cowl vent, opening windshield, left door rear view mirror, etc. The inner door panels, floorboards, axles, transfer case, motor, transmission, safety brake assembly, brake backing plates, and wheels/rims are scratch built using a composite of styrene and brass, while all working steering components (king pins, tie-rod, pitman arm, drag link, etc.) use brass exclusively for durability. The bucket seat structures are brass and can be pivoted forward but the styrene seat cushions are actually covered (upholstered?) in super thin leather (from used 'kid gloves'). Brass was used for the frame rails, cross members, bumpers, fenders, gas tank and filler tube, main spring leaves, fuel line, brake lines, etc. Aluminum tubing was used for the exhaust system. Actually, the only components not scratch built or heavily modified are the headlight lenses, the tires, the steering wheel, and the interior rear view mirror. This was Larry's first effort at creating a military vehicle and, though he admittedly prefers a model with a high gloss paint finish, he claims he has grown to appreciate the 'olive drab' on this particular model. The total time spent in research and actual fabrication has also caused him to no longer see the prototype vehicle as ugly or ungainly. Perhaps that's a bit like parental instinct.

These large 1/8 Scale Pobedas were marketed by DeAgostini in Russia using 100 incremental parts packages that came with a magazine subscription over a few years. They've only recently completed the parts editions, so many Russian model car aficionados have finally been able to finish their models. My brother and I just went 'halvers' on this one on Ebay (they 'ain't' cheap) and even then it took a full day to fine-sand (2000 grit), polish and repair the sometimes sloppy workmanship....lots of glue smudges, a scratched windshield, and a couple of broken parts. The model as produced by DeAgostini is really quite impressive, and even includes switch operated running lights and brake operated tail-lights. The model is really (REALLY) heavy, but delightfully the front wheels stand vertically with no sloppiness in the steering, The windows crank up and down and the vent-windows all pivot open. The design of these Pobedas began before the end of WWII around 1944 and production began slowly in 1946 ...so it wasn't a copy of an American Car as so many Soviet vehicles were. The production continued until 1958 by which time it looked quite dated by western standards. I personally think they were quite attractive and proportionate vehicles, and I'm really glad to have one of the 1/8 scale examples

I've just completed this 1/24 model of a basic, stock '58 Chevy Suburban with the factory optional Napco four wheel drive option. In previous years, the Napco 4x4 was a dealer installed option but beginning in '57 it became a Chevy factory option. They all came off the assembly line with the 235' Six cylinder motor and, in '58, all the light trucks (without deluxe two tone paint) used black painted wheels. Although many currently restored versions use chrome deluxe trim, you can imagine that the vast majority of the original factory versions used the basic painted bumpers and trim since these were almost always utility vehicles used in relatively rough conditions by construction contractors, surveyors, and civil engineers back in the day. I started with a derelict diecast '57 Suburban which was suffering from severe 'paint rash' as well as missing some trim, and adapted the front clip from a cheap MotorMax '58 pickup (one that I'd already cannibalized for the Fleetside pickup box on my previous model...a Custom '58 pickup). The original dog-leg door hinges have been replaced by fabricated 'tight-swing' hinges, and the original windshield has been replaced by a fabricated polycarbonate version that tilts back slightly to have the more accurate small roof peak that was missing on the original '57 Suburban diecast. The basic Napco 4x4 front axle and transfer case was from a $19 Walmart M2 GMC pickup that also contributed some of the Suburban's missing trim as well as the 4-speed standard transmission. The paint is basecoat/clearcoat mixed to approximate the original factory Granite Grey. These 4 wheel drive Chevies weren't expected to be overly pretty, but I really like basic work trucks just as they came off the assembly line by the truck manufacturers in the '50s, etc., and the Napco Suburbans are particularly interesting to me.

Tom, that was very insightful and well written......A great ergonomics lesson for all of us. Thank-you

For me, 'traditional' means low tech drivetrain (in this case 1963), roll-n-pleat interior, steel wheels and bias-ply wide whitewall tires (or simulated bias-ply). I realize that these days, lots of new 1/1 builds emulate that '50s and early '60s era and, to be honest, those are the hot rods I love.

I've just completed this '37 Studebaker hot rod pickup using a NAPA promo diecast toy/coin-bank as starting material. I've tried to keep it all Studebaker by using an Avanti R2 (Paxton supercharged) motor, transmission, and rear axle....pirated from an old Aurora plastic kit that was languishing in my parts bin. The custom 'roll and pleat' interior uses a '51 Studebaker dashboard and steering wheel, also from my parts bin, as well as felt carpeting. Some of the other modifications to the model include: removing and filling the fender mounted spare tire cavity, reducing the diameter of the front fender openings, lowering the headlights, smoothing the running boards, reshaping the original's crude windshield opening (including the addition of new glazing and wire trim), lowering and tapering the engine hood, rolling the rear pan, adding louvers to the hood and tailgate, brake-forming a custom tarp, adding a discrete handmade outside rear view mirror, lowering the suspension all around, and finishing the car with custom mixed 'pearl sea-foam' basecoat/clearcoat. The traditional wheels are chrome 'steelies' with wide-whites. Exhaust is polished aluminum tubing, and the simulated mylar fender welting is plated jewelry wire.