traditional

For some reason, I really like '57 Buicks, and NEO's resin 1/43 Caballeros and Roadmasters are exceptionally well detailed. The only let-down for me was the rather anemic looking wire wheels.....Buick's optional 'Skylark' wheels had a little more offset and the rims were a bit thicker where the rims met the wires. After a few years of dithering, I finally decided to take the time to modify the wheels on my three Buicks by adding a bead of wire to the outer edge of the rim and a smaller diameter wire ring to the inside near the wires. The modification took a lot longer than I anticipated.... each wheel was made up of 5 parts, to which I added two more. The tires also had to be relieved at the rear to allow the rims to fit deeper into them now that there was more 'offset'. I was so pleased with the improvement on the first model (the red and black Caballero) that I was willing to persevere on the other two as well. One of the pics shows an original NEO wheel on the Roadmaster convertible before the modification. A couple of the pics show the 1/43 blue/cream Caballero with its 1/18 BOS-MODELS big brother for no other reason than "I thought they looked cool together". NEO's original rather unrealistic, boring and flat wire wheels

Unfortunately, Lance, I can't take a picture of the chassis because I've wired my Caballero down onto a display case (I've done that with most of my resin models). The chassis on almost all of the resin 1/18 models (BOS,Otto-Mobile, Neo, Minichamps, etc.) are virtually flat with only exhaust pipes added to peek out in the appropriate places. The reason that the model prices are usually higher is that the build volumes are typically anywhere from 400 units to around 1000. You'd never be able to amortize the cost of diecast tooling with those kind of volumes unless you were charging $500 or more each. Resin tooling (usually silicone RTV or similar) is cheap by comparison, but the cycle time is much longer than with styrene or Zamak . I don't consider resin models as a complete replacement for diecast models, but I believe that they augment my collection by supplying vehicles never before done in diecast or interesting vehicles with a much more limited market appeal. The other situation that has brought on the trend toward resin models is that the Chinese government has limited the amount of raw materials allocated for diecast model production because they feel it's better used in the automotive industry. The model companies have a tough time getting both material as well as keeping employees willing to work for less than the automotive industry pays. Bear in mind that the model companies don't own their factories....the Chinese government does. Cheers, Cliff

In the last few years, I think I've come to prefer resin sealed models when they're in 1/43 or 1/18. The 1/24 Danbury models were wonderful in their last few years of manufacture but most 1/43 and 1/18 have sloppy shut lines, sprue blemishes visible on bright trim, and often slightly different color hues on the separate parts...especially when done in metallic finishes. Resin models also never seem to develop paint rash. I have hundreds of diecast models but I really like the quality and finishes on the new resin ones.

One of my favorite cars of the '50s,.... I was delighted when BOS (Best Of Show) came out recently with this resin Buick Caballero. The only modifications that I felt obliged to make on the model was to tuck the wheels into the fender-wells a bit since the tracking width was a bit too wide as manufactured. It was an easy modification....just shortening the axle mounts a small amount on each wheel-back and snipping off a touch of the metal axles as well . Although not as necessary a modification, I've also added a metal washer behind each wire wheel to simulate the brake drums. The best prices for Bos-Models is from ' American Excellence' since their parent company (Model Car World) in Germany has them manufactured in China. The US price is less than $100

During the winter, my brother visits here to use my weather-proof paint booth. Larry has been working steadily for 3 months on a 1/25 1957 Jeep pickup. With a ton of reference, he started the project using only a Speccast cab from a toy coin bank with no opening features. After cutting open the doors (rotary tool) he soon realized that the cab had inaccurate proportions and required noticable modification to the fenders, roof, cowl, entire back panel and the complete windshield area. Using mostly brass, he fabricated the entire chassis rails and crossmembers (including steering, shocks,and spring main leaves), pickup box and rear gate, floor, engine compartment (firewall, fender wells, radiator, etc.), grill, hood, bumper, wheel rims and back hubs, windshield and vent window frames. Using Styrene stock, he scratch built the complete 'Super Hurricane 226' 6 cyl. side valve engine, brake drums, differential carriers, transmission/transfer case, interior dash, heater, door panels, and seat (upholstered in actual leather with wire piping). There are many further fine details such as fuel line, brake lines and hoses, wiring, mirrors, door handles and cranks, and the list goes on. The finished model is now painted to represent factory correct Glenwood Green (basecoat/clearcoat) and features steering, opening doors, tailgate, glove box door, opened cowl vent, and pivoting vent windows. When all is said and done, the only purchased and unaltered items are the headlights and tires. Though it is a fairly small truck, its uniqueness, weight, durability, proportion, overall stance, and myriad of detail both surprised and impressed me.

Just finishing this chopped Deuce sedan and ,just to try something different, I used a handmade brass and aluminum suicide front suspension (ahead of the grill) and sprintcar style steering, as well as cycle fenders (lathe turned to look like the old spare tire cover style). The engine hood is fabricated in brass with tiny hinges so that it will fold in typical deuce style. Engine is a '50s style tri carb Oldsmobile (detailed with wiring, hoses, linkages, and fuel lines) and the rear axle is also late-model with handmade aluminum transverse spring, shackles and shocks etc. Carpeting is felt and the paint is basecoat/clearcoat. The grille insert is from Model car garage used on a Revell deuce roadster grille-shell. The radiator is fashioned in polished brass, and the door hinges are made from wire and aluminum tubing

I've just completed this '36 Rod using the coupe roof from a Revell/Monogram kit and adapting it to a diecast stock roadster 'derelict parts car'. The Revell/Monogram kit, while attractive looking, has the deck proportion too short and the Danbury coupe model has the deck proportion too long. Since I already had a couple of derelict FM roadster bodies in my parts bin, I decided to adapt the plastic kit's roof to the roadster body, separating the door detail to facilitate opening doors, all to make a hot rod with what I think are improved. proportions. The adapting of the plastic roof to the metal body required mechanically fastening the plastic with stiff styrene coated wire to insure that the epoxy glue wasn't the only joiner. I used a small block Chevy motor from my parts bin (detailed with the usual wiring, plumbing, fuel lines and tri-carb linkage) as well as an Oldsmobile rear axle (from the Revell Beatnik Bandit) and fabricated a new transverse spring from individual leaves (sheet aluminum) as well as the shackles, etc. The wheels are modified from the Beatnik-Bandit (mounted on tires from my parts bin), all the trim is done with plated jewelry wire, interior carpet is tan felt, and the paint is custom mixed Pthalo-green over pearl automotive basecoat/clearcoat.

Wow Niko, I absolutely love your '60 hard-top. It looks just like the 348 powered Chevies that I used to see at the drags when I was just a young kid first attending the races back in the day. I'd ride my bicycle miles to sneak into the drag races ( I'm sure the officials knew my brother and I had sneaked in, but they didn't bother us).....It was the first time I'd ever seen the W motors, and watching them race made me a Chevy fan for life. Congratulations, everything about your restoration looks just right! Merry Xmas and a happy 2016 to you and your family. Cliff

The Napco was done by combining the front clip from a '58 to a derelict '57 diecast and uses both diecast and scratchbuilt Napco parts. I build models in all materials but I like the challenge of working in metal.

Peter, you always build super clean models with perfect foil trim. A Quality year for sure! All gorgeous models.

Harry, Like all your other 'brass era' models, the workmanship is absolutely exemplary, and the subject matter is so refreshingly non mainstream.....SUPERB !

Oops, you're correct..........I meant to type in '54 Chevy Traditional Full Custom. Thank you for your sharp eye... I've corrected it now.

Since it's unlikely I'll complete another before the new year, here goes......... I hope you all have a great Xmas and a happy new year. Cliff '54 Chevy Traditional full custom "41 Chevy late '60s street rod '58 Chevy 'Napco 4 wheel drive' Suburban Deuce 5 window with 348 Chevy power

I've just completed this traditional full custom '54 Chevy from a derelict stock diecast (missing some parts) to which I've chopped the top ,added custom headlight and taillight detail, changed the side trim, modified and detailed the six cylinder motor, added a custom roll-n-pleat interior, carpeted the interior and trunk with white felt, added custom exhaust, and used a bunch of period custom touches throughout the body. The project has taken well over 100 hours to complete and while I'm sure i'll be fiddling with lots of details for the next few days, I consider it complete at this point. Materials used include styrene, tin, aluminum, brass, plated jewelry wire, felt, bondo, polycarbonate, and, of course, the original diecast and plastic. etc.

This one has taken a lot of time and although I'll be tweaking lots of details for a few days to come, these are the first pics of the vehicle in relatively finished condition. This '41 Chevy coupe was done from a relatively crude and disproportionate 1/24 Testors kit, so there was a major amount of modification to the proportions in all respects, the most important of which were: raising and re-contouring the roof, opening up (and re-contouring) all windows, recessing the grille area, lowering and re-contouring the rocker panel, cutting open the trunk and forming a trunk-lid and its tiny hinges in aluminum, and fabricating tight swing door hinges. I used simple and clean '40s Chev truck bumpers, and I've added subtle '60s era custom touches throughout the model (including a brass fuel-filler door). The kit engine is now replaced with a detailed 396" Chevy (wiring, plumbing, fuel line, linkage, return spring, mesh filter, etc.) and the wheels are Chevy disc-brake style, painted with Alclad and Humbrol orange. The hood is louvered, interior (and trunk) carpeting is in felt, upholstery is custom tuck-n-roll, and the new front seat backs fold forward for access to the rear seat. The complete exhaust system (including the lakes plugs) is custom made. When I decided to make a '41 Chevy coupe, I originally gave some thought to beginning this project with a Danbury Mint '41 Chevy coupe but they're expensive, very rare, and they, too, have a slightly too low and too flat roof. Besides, I really enjoy a challenge. Paint is custom mixed 'pearl orange russet' and the building materials used include: styrene, clear polycarbonate, aluminum, brass, silver wire, Bondo, felt, vinyl, resin, and diecast. Full size '41 Chevy 'greenhouse area Testors' disproportionate body shapes

Evidently, according to a few youtube restorations that I've watched for reference,, the Cadillac at that time (with all the emissions controls of the era) had only a single tailpipe. It, like most other American cars of the era, was bad on fuel and was quite slow in the performance department. I don't profess to be at all knowledgeable about any luxury cars,....they've never been my area of interest, but I do generally like the models being produced by BOS-MODELS in resin because they usually have nice finishes, are quite well detailed with fine trim and flush windows and, as far as limited edition resin models go, they're relatively inexpensive (around $98 US) . They also seem to only do models of cars that haven't been done at all by the diecast or plastic manufacturers, so they have a relatively interesting bunch of models of delightfully less popular vehicles, including some Eastern European cars (Trabant, Tatra, Wartburg, etc.). I still collect mostly 'opening ' diecast models, but I'm also just fine with the 'curbside' resin models as long as they're well done and reasonably inexpensive. My two favorite brands of 1/18 resin models are the Bos-Models and Otto Mobile (from France) as well as a few higher priced Neo resin models (although I haven't bought any of them for a while because of their higher price point). Most of the limited edition1/18 resin models manufacturers are asking upwards of around US$300 which I find excessive. When they went on sale at a local automotive collectible shop, I did buy a couple of '50s era Buick Motorama show cars from Minichamps.....the Wildcat, and Centurion shown below.

I've just received this 1/18 resin model and, although I'm not a 'luxury car guy', this model is beautifully finished. ...one of Bos-Models' best reproductions of an American car, in my opinion. In the last pic, I've added my two other 'Bos' American cars...a Cadillac Eldorado and a '57 Imperial......both of which are quite attractive, but fall far short of this Fleetwood Brougham in proportion and detail. The Eldorado required lots of added work with foil as well as changing the 'pimp style' whitewalls to more appropriate narrow white-walls, and the Imperial is disproportionately wide and low in the 'greenhouse' area. Bos-Models has done lots of well done European vehicles but it's taken them a few tries to get the American cars reasonably well. The best source that I've found for Bos-Models in the US is through 'American Excellence'.....their prices seem to usually be less than half of the typical Ebay prices.

The Lotus XI was built from 1956 until 1958 as a collaboration between Colin Chapman (Lotus cars) and Frank Costin (aerodynamic stylist). I think that this lightweight race car was exceptionally pretty even by today's standards, and, for years, there have been companies producing reproductions of them for use as club racers. . Bos-Models' little racer originally depicted a version that was used for a speed record using an enclosed canopy.....very well done, but I wanted the more common open cockpit version using a low windscreen (but still with the headrest styling), so the canopy was removed and a polycarbonate windscreen was cut and formed to replace it. Bos also makes the non-headrest version of this Lotus for those who want an open cockpit racer that already uses a low windscreen. The best prices that I can find for Bos-Models in the US is from American Excellence. I'm not affiliated with them in any way.

I believe that once Revell modified the Mercury and the Buick versions into customs (circa 1960) , the tooling may have been too expensive to refurbish back into stock versions again. Fortunately, over the years, I've been able to find all the 1955 and 1956 versions of these kits in unbuilt condition. I think that the 1955 tooling was probably modified to produce the 1956 versions so they, alsowouldnt be feasible for reintroduction.

Although I bought my setup in Canada, this Ebay example from the States http://www.ebay.com/itm/LimoStudio-Photography-Studio-12-and-30-Photo-Studio-Tent-Light-Backdrop-Kit-i-/351203861082?hash=item51c561a25a is similar to the one I bought..... In fact, it has even more equipment. It takes a few practice pics to get to know the appropriate lighting for model cars, but it certainly makes indoor photography easier.

I guess that would certainly explain my interest in making my own hinges......a problem needing a solution

Another from decades ago....an ENTEX 'MOOG'.......box stock and finished in basecoat/clearcoat.

I'm enjoying photographing some of my old models that were completed decades before the digital photography age. This ENTEX MGTC model was done a couple of decades ago and the only modifications that I seem to have made were: my own metal hinges for the 'suicide' doors (I can't remember what the problem was with the original kit hinges), and also the spark-plug wiring (again, I can't remember whether the original model came with a wiring setup or not). I believe that the model was 1/16 scale. Paint is basecoat/clearcoat, so my build date was probably in the late '80s/early '90s. .

I'm enjoying photographing some of my old models that were completed decades before the digital photography age. This model was completed in the late '70s, mildly modified from a 1/25 Strombecker Scarab kit. I was following an article in a sportscar book about one of the original Scarabs that had been modified into a street version back in the day. Mods included the hood scoop and the polished exhaust. I do have an original unbuilt kit that I intend to build into the original race version one day soon.

Seeing Dave Bantoft's cool Merit kit restorations here a few days ago made me realize that I've never photographed my old Merit kit builds that I completed in the mid '70s from some original '50s kits that I'd bought years before I built them. These were really simple basic kits of British and European racers and the only modifications that I made were scoring clear discs to simulate the wire wheels and finishing the models at their belt-lines where the upper and lower halves typically joined. I painted, back then, with a Binks Wren airbrush using Testors bottle paint thinned with (believe it or not) naptha fuel. Yes, I always painted outside, obviously, but even back then I prided myself in good shiny smooth paint finishes.These have all been kept together, dust free, in one of the original Monogram 'step style' display cases made to hold 6 or 7 smallish 1/25 scale models. Early '50s Cooper with J.A.P. 500CC motor 1955 Connaught Tybe B Grand prix racer 1949/1950 Talbot Lago T26C Grand Prix racer 1950/51 Alfa Romeo 159 Alfetta Grand Prix racer 1956 Aston Martin DB 3S 1956-1958 Lotus Eleven 1957 Vanwall VW5 Formula 1 Racer