traditional

Great, well finished models, and also beautiful pics

Since I recently showed my just completed '5 window' full fendered deuce, I thought it would be appropriate to also show its 'display-mate'...... my '3 Window' version. It was done a few years ago, and was actually featured in Model Cars Magazine (Aug/Sept 2010 issue#152), but until now, I haven't shown it on this forum. This model was also highly modified from an FM with the new basic engine and wheels from a Revell/Monogram deuce roadster kit (still available) The main effort was making the chopped top and doors proportionate and dropping the front axle while retaining the steering and drag-link operation. The engine is detailed with linkage (including return spring), fuel-lines, cables, hoses, working dip-stick, mesh filters, heat-sender line, etc. and the chassis is completed with polished aluminum tubing custom exhausts etc. Of course there are tons of more minor modifications throughout the model, and the main paint is custom mixed automotive basecoat/clearcoat with Humbrol, testors, and Tamiya paints used for details.

I've just completed this model '32 Ford hot rod as an amalgam of styrene, diecast, and aluminum, etc. and about three weeks of my steady spare time. The coupe body was from a cheap Ebay FM 'Rockin Rod'...one of their ugliest models (a redo of their Graffitti Coupe), and the fenders, hood and smaller door hinges came from a totally destroyed Danbury Mint stock '32 ford roadster that was in my parts bin. The SB Chevy engine is from a Revell engine kit (with lots of added detail....wiring, fuel-lines, linkages (with return spring), mesh filters, valve cover wing nuts, aluminum generator, etc.) and the traditional 'steelie' wheels and 'rams-horn' exhaust manifolds are from a Revell/Monogram roadster kit. Most of the serious modifications revolve around making the main diecast parts mate together since there are lots of dimentional discrepancies between them, but there are also a myriad of other subtle modifications and added details throughout the model. Aluminum sheet stock and tubing was used for the handmade rear transverse spring/shock absorber assembly (individual leaves and shackles), as well as the custom dual exhaust, rear trailing arms, and front/rear frame spreader bars. Carpeting for the new interior and fabricated styrene trunk is done in felt, and fine plated wire is used for rear fender welting, chrome windshield frame, many of the engine lines, lowered headlight bar, and the tail-light bezels. Paint is custom mixed maroon automotive basecoat/clearcoat, with Humbrol and Tamiya used for small details. I still build lots of all-plastic models, but I must admit, I'm becoming absolutely passionate about modifying cheap, damaged, or unwanted diecast models....the finished products, while detailed, still maintain durability over time. Notice the "poor-man's air conditioning".....the windshield cranks out at the bottom Notice the "poor-man's air conditioning".....the windshield cranks out at the bottom.

Time flies!! The only reason that I remember the year that this one was done, is that I have the 1st place plaque it won in the model contest at the Ottawa Autorama early in 1981. This model was made from an AMT stock '49 Merc kit because, of course, at that time there were no pre-chopped kits or resin bodies.....all modifications had to be planned and then done by hand. Most of the modifications were pretty obvious....chopped (with slanted post), lowered, shaved, frenched headlights, custom tail-lights, skirts, sunken antennae, sculpted hood nose and deck-lid, tri-carb Cadillac engine (well detailed for the time), lakes pipes (aluminum tubing) and Desoto grill bar. These mods were all in keeping with the typical led-sleds of the '50s and the paint was candy red lacquer with hand done red scallops and pinstriping. The foil I used at that time was aluminum/mylar muffler tape. I really recommend models being kept in display cases and this one is an example of how they can stay in excellent condition for long periods of time when well.protected

Mike, I typically use vinyl pin-striping tape layered two or three thick and slice it into thin strips using a straight edge and fresh exacto knife. I carefully lay down the long strips in the place I want the louvres and then cut away the spaces with the exacto, right on the model. If you have a steady hand and good eye, you can then cut off a small bevel (triangle) from the ends of each louver to give it the correct visual directionality. Lastly, spray a couple of coats of primer in the front area of the louvres so that it blends slightly giving the soft shape to the non-open face of the louvres. After the finish coat of paint is applied to the model and is really dry, I carefully mark the simulated open edge of the louvre with a drafting tech-pen in black ink. You can use a toothpic to carefully scrape away any ink errors before adding a protective clearcoat, if desired.

Hi Manny,...I always enjoy seeing your skillful work. Don't apologise about the 'diecast thing'......my motto is use whatever material is going to give you the best results. It's all model building, and yours are wonderful.

I can't believe so much time has passed, but I built this early '60s era drag racing B/A (25% engine setback) 32 years ago using a Revell 'Orange Crate' kit as starting material. The injected Olds engine became as reasonably detailed as I could manage back then with aluminum and plastic tubing etc. and the Moon disks were cut from the bottom of a pop can and touched with fine sandpaper while they were spinning on a power drill. You had to be relatively self- sufficient back then as there simply weren't the miriad of detail suppliers. I added the louvres (shaped from thin strips of tape) to the rear and underside of the body as well as hood sides and did all my own interior detail and fabricated the working drag-link to the steering. Paint was automotive lacquer and, thankfully, the model has stayed in fine shape due to being kept all this time in a display case.

In late '62 and early '63 Chevrolet built 50 'race-only' 427 cu. in. Z11 Impalas (not SuperSports) to be used on America's drag strips. some were given virtually free of charge to the top Chevy racers and the others sold to various other drag racers around North America. These cars used a special 'W' series 427 with high-rise manifold (with valley cover), a special air-cleaner housing that brought cool air from the plenum at the base of the windshield, aluminum hood, front fenders, front bumper, radiator support, fan shroud, and hood latch assy......all with the intent of light weight and weight transfer. General Motors management got out of racing entirely shortly after the introduction of these cars but for that period of time in 1963 they were untouchable. This one represents the one raced in 'Limited/Production' class by Hayden Profitt at the '63 Winternationals in Pomona Calif. If the racers used slicks, they were classified as A/FX and the ones with treaded tires ('cheater-slicks') were classed in L/P. I had bought a decal set and a damaged Franklin Mint Impala for $20 at a toy show with the idea that it might be an easy way to have a Z11 model, but the project became a lot more complicated when the FM model had to be completely disassembled, the all body accessories (side mirrors, antenna, and gas filler trim, etc.) removed and the holes filled and body repainted. While the body was drying, I removed the original white interior, shifter console, bucket-seats etc,, and replaced them with a bench seat, Borg-Warner four-speed (with early Hurst shifter), red felt carpeting, small gauge cluster under the dash, and refinished the upholstery in red. I removed the 409 engine and added the required Z11 engine detail, headers, as well as additional wiring and fuel lines etc. I also removed all the heater detail, added the plenum intake, hood hinges (non-working) and simulated aluminum hood latch etc. The front suspension was raised and the rear axle lowered. An additional rear trailing arm was added as per the reference to the real car. I added door sill plates (polished aluminum strips at the carpet edge) and side windows since all stochers had to race with the windows up. To the best of my knowledge, I've copied the original car accurately as to colors and equipment, and I finally have a model of the vehicles that I really admired when I was a kid in '63. I hope this model will bring back some racing memories for some of you as well.

This is what the original FM 'Rockin' Rod' looked like

I've just completed this 'east coast' style channelled street rod, modified from a diecast coupe....Franklin Mint's ill-conceived 'Rockin'Rod' (a hideous redo of the Graffitti Coupe). The original model cost me $20 on Ebay, and anyone who's seen my recent models knows that I really enjoy modifying diecasts and I tend to use any materials that are appropriate to give me the results that I'm looking for....plastic, aluminum, resin, etc., etc.The body is channelled over the frame, the coupe roof replaced with appropriate roadster upper edge details, motor replaced with a super-detailed '50s Cadillac engine (wiring, dipstick, fuel lines, linkage, etc.), handmade interior, fuel tank in the trunk area, completely modified frame and undercarriage ( including brake-lines, fuel lines, tubing exhaust, handmade rear buggy spring etc.). The cycle-fenders are lathe-turned from ABS plumbing tubing and made to look like '30s era spare tire covers that were so often modified by hot-rodders to use as fenders in the late '50s. Paint is basecoat/clearcoat, and wheels are chrome steelies with wide whites. The model has taken me about two weeks of quite steady (retired) spare time, and I'm really happy with the results.

That looks real...........a superb job

These two Toyota crew-cab pickups were built from Aoshima Toyota Hilux kits......one is pretty much box stock with only the addition of foil and paint trim details as well as automotive basecoat/clearcoat paint, and the other is modified to be a basic 4X4 using a period Toyota brochure as reference. The rubber side trim was removed from the body-side sculpted indent, the sun-roof filled, non sliding rear window instead of deluxe one, basic style bench seats replace the deluxe buckets, basic grey steel wheels replace the chrome mag-style deluxe steel wheels, and, of course, most of the bright trim is replaced with painted details. The roll bar is deleted with just fasteners left in the holes, and basic Toyota tailgate graphics were done in letraset. For some reason, I often tend to prefer the honest look of basic commercial vehicles over the deluxe civilian versions. I quite like Aoshima kits because although they are quite simple and usually a bit overpriced, to their credit, they are usually very well molded (no sink marks), well proportioned, and have excellent quality plating.

Hi Jeff, I always appreciate your comments. That one was really fast,...... you must have seen the fire truck within the first minute or two after I posted it. Cheers, Cliff

This 1/24 model of a post-war Ford two ton fire pumper was built by my brother, Larry, a few years ago by stripping and modifying a YatMing '38 Ford diecast pumper and adapting a stripped and modified Danbury mint '42 Ford pick-up cab. The damaged pick-up model came very cheaply on Ebay and the YatMing pumper was bought inexpensively at WalMart. The pumper body was disassembled, stripped, shortened considerably, brass rear fenders added, and new step-plate running boards fabricated in styrene, the hoses are made from shoelace with modified aluminum tubing hose connections. The cab was disassembled and stripped, the front fenders expanded, and holes drilled for the addition of lights and siren etc. The flathead V8 engine was also detailed with wiring and appropriate plumbing etc. and parallel semi eliptic front leaf springs were added to the chassis. We did the basecoat/clearcoat red paint in my spray-booth, and the details use Tamiya and Humbrol paints. Volunteer fire department lettering was done in gold 'model railroad' serif style Letraset Rural, volunteer fire trucks in the early post war period often used relatively basic civilian chassis cabs and seldom had all the chrome, gold-leaf striping, and fillagree that was typically seen on the specialized trucks used in corporate or city sponsored fire departments. We both thought that this combination reflected quite accurately a typical volunteer pumper. .

This '50s era sprintcar model was modified from an early GMP kit (plastic and unpainted diecast) with the addition of a taller windshield, handmade nose and grill area, a detailed Chevy engine (GMP's was a crude and simple motor), an aluminum firewall with guages made using aluminum tubing and epoxy, and custom paint and lettering. The '50s style two-wheel trailer is completely scratch-built in soldered brass with aluminum, styrene and ABS plastic for the details. The trailer features a working trailer-hitch, working hand-winch, hinged ramps, twin storage/tool cabinets with handmade padlocks etc. The hauler is a '54 Ford half-ton panel modified from a "gearbox' '53 Ford model. Changes include the handmade '54 grill, detailed '54 'Y' block V8 to replace the '53 'flathead', reconfigured rear fenders to accurately represent the '54 changes down near the running-boards, a steerable brass 'I' beam front axle to replace the sloppy 'Gearbox' unit, a fabricated brass rearview mirror, all mold witness lines filed and smoothed, the crude 'Gearbox' wheels/tires replaced with ones from a YatMing Ford model, and custom mixed red paint in basecoat/clearcoat.

Now, That looks fabulous!! I love it. Where did you find the appropriate wheels? they're perfect

These two mild custom pickups (1/18 scale) were built a few years ago using typical custom trends of the late 50s and early 60s, including louvered hoods and tailgates, white custom interiors, lowering, chrome steelies with wide whites, custom exhaust (polished aluminum tubing), snap-on tarps over the pickup beds, custom paint etc. The '53 Ford also has a fully plumbed/wired 4-carb (incl linkage) Desoto Hemi, custom tube grill, canted quad headlights and fenders, sunken antenna, rolled rear pan etc. The '49 Ford uses an Olds engine with six strombergs, running board mounted antennae, custom tail-lights and an added rear bumper. The carpets are white felt, the tarps use pin-heads as the snaps, and the Merc style hubcaps are made from fabric snaps found in craft stores.

That '36 rod is both beautifully conceived, and beautifully executed.........I love everything about it. Great modelling!

Usually, my brother and I find ourselves modifying model kits or damaged stock precision diecast models into hot rods. This was just the opposite.....My brother, Larry, has spent the last few weeks modifying a TESTORS metal hot rod kit into an accurate, highly detailed, stock 37 Ford sedan....a one-off precision diecast. Keeping only the main diecast body shell and fenders, he adapted a chassis from a badly damaged and incomplete Danbury '36 Ford cabriolet, making appropriate new springs, shocks, drive shaft, and motor details. Using reference from a real car he fabricated the complete interior including floor, dash board, door panels, window frames, seats, handles, levers, and gauges. Moving on to the main body shell, an accurate firewall was fabricated with all its electrical components...battery, solenoid, wiring, and linkages. He cut open the sealed trunk and made an opening trunk lid (in aluminum) with its inner formed structure, support bracket, and micro hinges. That meant the inner trunk details were necessary...bulkhead, spare tire, luggage shelf, etc. The additional outer body details include fuel filler and cap, fender welting in fine black wire, and running board support brackets (visible underneath). The colour is correct Dalmation Green which we applied in my paint booth using base coat/clear coat. We are both very pleased with the result, not only because the model appears authentic but also because we are unaware of any available 'stock' 1937 Ford models.