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sbk

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Posts posted by sbk

  1. DSC05168_zpszsmuustw.jpg

    Okay.... at first it was funny, but, now, based on the shadows, all of the objects are floating??? What have you done NOW, Mr. Jones?? Scale anti-gravitational manipulation?

  2. I'm not sure about using craft paint on a body. I use it on interiors, but to me, it wouldn't seem like it would dry hard enough for a body. There are still a good range of color choices in acrylic paints like Testors, Tamiya & others. I think that those need less thinning to shoot properly with good coverage.

    Straining the paint is a great idea & I do that, too. I put a piece of pantyhose over the jar when pouring in the paint.

  3. It's not like vacuum plating, but at the same time, you're not at the mercy of the plater. If it comes out bad, I have no one but myself to blame. On the other hand, waiting a month only to find out that the chromed parts have specks in them that weren't there when you sent them.... I don't like that at all. Then, having to strip the part, send it back & hope for the best is like Russian roulette. The Cadillac grille for my '50 Chevy had to be plated 3 times before it was acceptable to me.

    A smooth, wet looking base coat is a must. No orange peel or ripples. I spray many light, low pressure mist coats of chrome on top of that. I hold the part next to a white surface, & look at the reflection in the part. I keep spraying until the black specks of the base coat are nearly gone. If you push it too much farther, you'll end up with aluminum instead of chrome.

    I set the part aside, & let the enamel harden. Then, I take a soft cloth & lightly buff the part to remove the dusty overspray from so many light mist coats.

    Even with all that, there is still a slight haze to the overall look, that makes the reflections less crisp than vacuum plating.

    bumper1.jpg

    I think it does work well for small parts.

    post-7534-0-65540200-1411094938_thumb.jp

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