bob paeth

On March 2, 3, & 4, in Portland, Oregon there will be one of the finest model car contests in the Pacific Northwest. this will be the 36th year of the contest, the oldest, continious, contest in the United States. It is held in conjunction with the Portland Roadster Show. this way participants get to see a 1/1 custom car show as well as the model contest. Both shows usually have 300+ entries. The contest has junior classes as well as senior age groups. The "senior" side will have over 18 different classes ( something for everyone ). "Move-in night" is March 1st. Enter at this time and both shows are free. We will give you a pass to come back and see both shows when they are open. There is no charge for entries into the model contest or a limit as to how many you may enter. You will, however, have to pay admission to the 1/1 show to get to the contest area after the show opens. But, you still get a free pass so that you can see the shows twice whoopie ). New model kits will be part of the awards given for the contest along with some very col plaques and ribbons. Awards are given from 3rd place to 1st place with special awards for paint, interior undercarriage (& engine ) and BEST OF SHOW. Security of the models is not a problem as all competing models are displayed under large plastic bubbles. This not only protects them from prying fingers but it allows the public to see them from a distance of only a few inches. Show hours are Friday2PM to 10PM, Saturday 10AM to 10PM and Sunday from 10AM to 7PM. the contest hours are the same except for Sunday. Awards will be given out about 3:30PM and everything will be gone by 5PM. There is plenty of parking but it is not free. You can park by a nearby shopping center ( Lloyd Center) and take the "MAX" train for free and it stops right at the front door of the complex. The show and the contest location is in the Portland Convention Center located on Martin Luther King Blvd. Coming in from either I-5 or I-84 there are signs showing the way. ( look for the two big green glass towers) I might add that during the contest there is always somebody building a model at the contest table. Stop and look, you might even learn something ( maybe ) If I have not answered all of your questions, pease contact me: Bob Paeth whiskers16@comcast.net 503-665-3365 I know that there are members of this site that live well within traveling distance. With a little luck you might be able to meet some of them in person ( WOW ) Try to make it gang, I know you will enjoy the "ride " Bob

I'm really not sure why I haven't told everyone about the club that I belong to, but, stand-by : Scale Auto Builders Association ( SABA ) just celebrated its 25th anniversary. We are not a large club. The orginizational meeting had about 7 members present, of which 3 are still active with the club. We seem to average about 35 members with a cool 20 to 25 members showing up for the meetings every month. We meet the second Sunday evening of each month. Officially the meetings start at 7PM but members start showing up a little after 6. Supposedly the meetings are over at 10PM but you know how that goes when a bunch of car nuts get together. We have a regular set of by-laws and our dues are $24.00 per year. We are also registered with the state of Oregon as a non-profit organization. Along with voting on which model is best at every meeting, we also have quarterly themes. panel deliveries, pick-ups, etc. All votes are tabulated each meeting and the January meeting culminates in the naming of the best model builder of the year. We also vote on the best model of the year. Out side activities include supporting one of the "Boys & Girls clubs in Portland. We do seminars in the LHS through out the year ( atleast 10 ). We have, in April, an NNL ( we call it a model fest but with the same concept ) complete with a swap meet. Our biggest event of the year is the Portland Classic, A model contest occuring in conjunction with the nationally famous Portland Roadster Show. This is the 51st show for the Roadster Show and the 36th year for the Portland Classic. This contest is the oldest, continious, contest in the United States, and possibly the world. You might recognize the names of some of our members: Jarius Watson Wayne Stevens Dave Susan just to name a few. Wayne and Dave have won several awards at the GSL and we all know who Jarius is. (Or you better know) All these listed activities are making me tired so with that I am gonna stop. If I have piqued your curiosity about a question or two please contact me. We may not be from the goverment but we are still here to help. Bob :shock:

Gee, Zeb, Maybe it the old saying " if it don't go..........chrome it " bob :shock:

I have a suggestion for Greg & Jarius: since April seems like a good guesstamate on thieir site hitting 1000 members, how about a free trip to the GSLIMCC for everyone in May for a BIG celebration. We could all help with the cost by furnishing our own transportation to the airport. I would be willing to also contribute my earned "air miles". IF WE ALL DID THIS THERE WOULD PROBABLY BE ENOUGH "MILES" THAT GREG AND JARIUS COULD FLY FREE This would be a nice jesture from all of us loyal members. We could even offer to go "halves" on our hotel rooms. Any other incentives that we could offer to our two bennefactors ? bob :shock:

Home Depot has just started carrying a new compressor from Campbell-Hausfeld. It is a two tank design, has a maximum pressure of 100 lbs ( which is more than enough) . It has a guage to tell you the pressure in the tank and a guage to regulate the pressure to your airbrush. It comes with several fittings including a quick-release, a tire inflater and THIS : _-a Brad nailer for small jobs around the house. The best news is that it retails for only $79.95. and you can carry it with one arm ( and not drop it ) I bought one and I luv it bob

I am sorry to hear of the loss to the people of OZ but, also glad that the Peter Brock that I know is still with us. thanks for clearing up my confusion. bob :shock:

Yeh, Bill and while they are looking at Mikes entries, I slip mine in. Then I hide Marks glasses. BTW, you forgot the "I" in the title. It is GSLIMCC. The "I" stands for "international" I did enter a model about 15 years ago that was almost a "glue bomb". Took 4th place with it too ( of course there were only 5 entered in the class ) But, it is the best that I have done so far. Heh heh heh bob :shock:

As with any thing that a modeler uses, it should be used in a proper way. I use Squadron White exclusively and I have no problems with it. Shrink is not a problem nor is drying time. My secret ? I fill everything in with melted plastic and use putty for just filling in the scratches that I cause by using too course of a sandpaper. Extensive body work may see up to 10 coats of primer, also. bob :shock:

I'm sorry to hear of the passing of Peter Brock, it was news to me. I occasionaly ran into him while I was with Revell. For a guy with a big reputation he was really down to earth, like the neighbor next door. As I recall we were about the same age which means that he died way too young. Bob :shock:

HELP !!!!! Of the photos taken of the NNL 2007 I would like to know the builder of the "Dodge Revellion" The model is found on page two numbered 1055. This was one of the models that I designed while I was with Revell. It was a companion kit to the "Miss Deal", ie. developed in the same time frame. If anyone can give me a clue, I can be reached at: whiskers16@comcast.net Thanks Bob Paeth :shock:

The only Monogram model that comes to mind is the '60 Chevy panel delivery. This particular model has been released many times and under different names. It has been molded in silver also. It is a rather simplistic kit but with no other choice if you are looking for this body style, go with it. I'm working on one right now that will have a hot tub where the pick-up bed used to be. Bob :shock:

Any body know what the car is in the garage ? Bob :?:

In all of my builds, I use a wood buning tool in assembly. By melting the plastic, I get a bond as strong as the original molding. If you were able to get the warp corrected, you might look into bracing your new work by my method. You will not have a problem with "memory". cracking or shrinking. Bob :shock:

I'm not sure whether I should post a vote on the bikes that have been posted but I'm gonna anyway. My first choice, hands down, is the purple jobbie submitted by Zoli. This has to be one of the best bikes to ever "roll down the turnpike" Absolutely FANTASTIC!!!!! Runner -up has to be the sbmission by Lyle Willlits for his "Sun Chaser". A special mention should be made of the entry of Rick Forrester. The bike is nothing short of fabulous and probably would win in any other contest. He should be complimented on his presentation. The background of the photo just grabbed my attention. Bob :shock:

Please excuse my Spanish: Muy hermosa............. Bob :shock:

For very small drill bits, check out what Dremel has to offer. I am not sure the dinensions of these bits but the smallest is very SMALL. I picked mine up at the Home Depot. they come in a metal case for easy storage. Bob :shock:

I am currently working on a die cast '41 Pontiac convertible, my first die cast model. It was easy to lower even further than the way it came due to the plastic chassis. Body changes included tailites molded in tube type, frenched headlites, new grille opening, side body chrome strips, sunken license plate ( in the trunk lid ) and fender skirts. The only major body modification was in the grille area. I ground out the new opening with my Dremel, super glued a piece of styrene from the back and shaped the opening with Squadron White putty. Adherence has proven to be no problem. Grinding was also the method of working with the rear license plate. The tubular tailites were done by drilling holes in the rear fenders, super gluing in some styrene tubing and then fitting the red tailites into the tubing. The windshield was already chopped but it looks like a die cast could be chopped simply by cutting the roof from the body, making the appropriate cuts for the lowering aspect of the job and re-attaching the roof to the body by using styrene strips glued to the back side where you have re=attached the roof to the body. Then finish the job with the putty of your choice. Bob :shock:

Jarius, you promised not to tell .............. Bob :shock:

The reason for the "soft tops" in the cars circa 1936 and before is because technology had not progressed far enough to stamp the bodies in sheet metal without wrinkleing. The first vehicles done with solid tops were called out as "turet tops". To construct a model with a "soft top" such as you would find in a diorama of a junk yard is fairly easy. Cut the hole in the top as shown by the molded "lines". Simple ribs would be installed from side to side. I,m not sure whether all of the soft tops had chicken wire and padding but padding was a must to give these tops the "proper contour". If you are building a replica "soft top" just cut out the section, cover the piece with fabric, round the fabric over the edges of the cut-out piece and re-insert it back into the top. bob :shock:

Harrys' illustrations are indeed GREAT!!!!. But, Jarius, you are still my hero and guru.................. bob :shock:

This is a very good topic and I am glad to see so many responses. By the time I had any feedback on building it was too late to make a significant difference to me. I started my modeling experience some 69 years ago using rubber cars and changing them with modeling clay. With the plastic models getting under way in 1949 I gladly switched to a more durable material. However it was still a much alone hobby. I didn't meet another modeler until 1960. This meant 11 years of experimenting with techniques on my own. Let me say this, above all, realism should be the most important aspect of any build. A new comer to the hobby may not have the expertise to create an award winning model or anything close to it but he should be encouraged at all costs. So far as realism is concerned, most of Tom Daniels models, in my opinion, were "jokes". Perhaps along the lines of what would be at home on the comic page. In building a model, not only do I strive for realism in appearance but also if it could actually be built in a 1/1 situation. Case in point: If I want to change the windshield on a custom, I will fit a windshield from another kit rather than just making a new one out of a piece of clear plastic. I have judged models that looked "cool" in every aspect except that there was no possible spot to have an engine. How about the model that is so loaded down with paint that all door, hood and trunk lines are "filled in". I have seen models with no drive shafts, I have seen models with the tires cut off so that they could be lowered to the extreme and I have seen models with no semblance of a brakeing system . I will be lenient on some points, however. If you scale down the thickness of the styrene in any model, a 1/1 vehicle would have some pretty thick sheet metal. With this in mind I have never critisized a model that could not be steered because of a lack of fender clearance or any other part that might have been influenced by the wall thickness of the model. I seem to have gotten on a "soap box" here. Please excuse the tirade. Just chalk it up the the ravings of the resident curmudgeon. bob :shock:

Does anyone else have the same problem that I have with the "pages" of this site ? Half of the time what is posted is wider than my screen and I have to keep scanning back and forth to read all of the thread. Other times it is well within the proper confines. (and don't tell me that I need a bigger screen, OK ? ) bob :shock:

I wonder if just heating the wire and pushing it through the styrene would work. Naturally I would suggest using neddle nosed pliers in trying this method. Bob :shock:

The comments seen here calling out the Ferrari and the Mustang in the same genre reminded me of this actual happening: In the year 1964 when Mustang was new to the public, the editor of Road and Track magazine was driving a Ferrari as his personal vehicle. It was parked just outside the magazines office when a pedestrian saw it and gave it a "once-over". Noticing the horse on the grille work, he approached the editor and asked if him that "new Mustang" was his. A "put-down" editor polilely explained to the gentleman the meaning of life and the not so little difference between the two marques. OOOOPs bob :shock:

If anyone here on this site is into building 1/16 scale, how about this idea ? Take the tailite section of the turbin car, separate the two ends, turn them to a verticle position and use them in any of the 1/16 Chevies, the Nomad. the '55 or the '57. I little fender modification is necessary but they make the wildest looking tailite design. bob :shock: