spad007

Tooth: are you getting enough tooth on the parts your painting? it might help to wet sand parts before you prime . some soapy water and wet sanding paper right at first might help. the primer adherer to your model. then sanding each coat after to provide the paint grip on the model some "scuff and shoot". Like an, Earl Scheib "I will paint your car for 39.95 and no Extras"; Paint job. ... And he meant it too, no extras like masking or sanding or giving back your wipers. (they were on your car when you left.) "We are not responsible for damage or loss of items left in you car"

I founded this ► http://public.fotki.com/crstan/replican-and-miniat/replicas-and-miniat/ 78 pic's of product. from replicas & Miniatures

Hearse? Or flower car? Open bed stretch limos are Flower cars. there were a few here in the Denver area one a nice old Packard. never see them any more. any way your Car looks good so far. and thank You for showing it.

Nice project lots of neat things going on there Keep going and have fun.

A update to my WIP. i think i like the gray primer best for this build. lots of touch up to do but i glued the fender/bed assembly onto the frame. and fitted the radiator and upper hoses. and the new battery tray need to add a strap there. the interior is done as is the glass. it is getting there..

.I was just at the hobby store in Aurora. and the price of a spray can of Tamiya Color . just went up to six fifty plus tax. I squawked and the manager said. "It's getting harder to get." and pointed me back to the Testors. at $5.79 Tes 28109 and a can of black 1832 m fer $5.25 not what i wanted but i just had to have some. if my paint glows in the dark i don't care as long as i get a deep discount . there has to be a better way.

If you have a flat bed scanner or can borrow the use of one, Go to the dealer and ask for one of the plates. They are usually paper board and not expensive heck you might just borrow it and mail it back. Be sure and tell him/her why you want it.and that your going to show/share with friends and on the net.(free advertising hint hint) scan it in take the scanned file in to your photo editor size it to fit. print it out glue it on. that way it will be exact no angles to futz with.

I ripped/cut the wires out and will replace with smaller wires the mag has a right angle drive behind the drive belt under the blower and the big wires looked clunky there. detail master might have what i want. on the body i am doing some wax on wax off. and some how the steering wheel fell over in side the cockpit-o so i must do some ship in bottle repair.

Outstanding that looks like a great system. i really like the look .

my first kit after 20 plus years. still needs to be rewired with smaller wires

Wow thats Cool thanks. i did some research on stream liners i did find the Disney streamliner but not so fine a collection as yours. i have been setting up a stream lined train In Maya but put it aside for now. do a search for art deco cars man a guy can spend hours looking.

Cool looks like a lot of work have fun. a few years ago i saw a how to on lacing Pocher wire wheels. way out of my league. i always wanted some Buffalo wires for my 1:1 "T"

Yes Sir the nose and the hide away headlights but the flex exhaust pipes might not work.Maybe only 2 pipes a side. the trim must stay as it is part of the grill its hard to see in my reference photos but in front the grill opening is behind the wraparound bars.

Thank you 'Terror'..Er? Which wheels and tires? the stock ones? or the parts box rims?

+ The kit came was opened box only missing head light lenses.(around $22 bucks all in) + The left front fender is broken from poureing tab. + The whole point was the fenders so am not too happy about that. the only other resin kit i did was 20 years ago a plane mod. it was much higher quality. 2 seat thud WW and big as! wings on martin recon. oh and some "N" gage stuff + The wheels this kit comes with don't get it for me as i don't feel like trying to polish them then sending them to be Chromed. + I have some plastic dub's from my 50 Ford pu that will work. + The bumper is way off the bottom rail is too small at one end. and the casting is way rough.. + If i build this; 'As is'... Any die cast models will look nicer in any scale. yes my goal is to look as good as any Die cast car if not better. + A scrach built bumper will have to be made from three flat bars. + So i might use the fenders on my planed scratch build COE instead. + You resin guys work wonders my hat is off to you. The Sharpie marks are mine so i don't loose my place.

is that a unibody pick up? IE; 60 ford F-100? wishing for a Go-Kart Streamliner and trailer.

it came today man that was fast give me some time to look it over. it's complete man that is one heavy casting .

http://www.diecastmodelswholesale.com/servlet/the-9082/1947-Ford-COE-Fire/Detail or like this ??

In the photo as i look at it (no real 1:1 car has 3 places to mount the spindle's ) the 3 holes look like your choice for mounting the wheels is a kit thing. and they missed the hight/thickness of the cross member that sway bar looks way low. get out your saw .

Stepped side boards deco art does many things in Threes.look at the trim on the Jimmy.... Threes you see? rear end. i can make it a car hauler or throw in a fifth wheel like a duely pu . maybe a tow rig? i think of this as a between full size truck and a pick up some thing like a one ton but a scoch bigger. just big enough to haul a 20's or 30's car not too wide and not too long. gerr had a one potato too potato moment .. back latter..

No it's what the Kit came with as custom wheels and tire's.. for dog dish hub caps.not shown as am keeping chrome parts in bag. (and white wall decals. i am not going to use.) We use to turn whites to the in side any way, we thought it looked race car like. saved on cleaning too. I would rather have chrome rings and caps. and baby moon's or chrome reverse with baby moon's. But; Wish in one hand and spit in the other 'see witch gets full faster' I only own 5 kits 25 stock "T" roadster pu,25 "T" hot rod,50 F1 Pu and this 37/8 ford pu. and a "Extremeliner" kit on the way. I did look at some wheels at my local hobby shop (Colpar Hobbies West, but none grabbed my eye) so not many choices for wheel combo's For Me. The 50 Ford came with some low profile wider(┐Dubs?) wheels and tires I could mock up. but this is a po' boy hot rod and that torque tube and banjo rear end can only take so much. it's better that the tires slip/spin than the axle brake. it's a one legger any way. The transverse spring suspension not Radial friendly any way. thats my story and i be sticking to it.

Ok! I sent for it should arrive here 15th or 18th now what. this is going to be hard to paint. i thought i saw a how to or utube thing on painting one i will look for it later And Thanks for the heads up and link.

UPDATE; Some Progress. mock up of body . i had to clearance the inner-fenders. i might be able to save the battery tray. i had to cut a lump off the firewall i could not tell what it was. the floor will need work i think.

yes yes i see it if it lasts till tomorrow i will get it. have to go to bank first. thanks i for got all about Model Master. are you going to build one?

i like Deco art especially if it's a car.Delahay fenders and as to the roof line you might be right. a eyebrow is ok . un chopped but layed back wind screen? the door gets weird. i will give it a shot and see what happens..