jsimmons

Project is underway. Instead of posting pictures/discussion here, I've setup a build progress page here: http://paddedwall.org/plastic/build_70Boss429.aspx When there's an update, I'll post a notice in this thread. If you have any comments/suggestions/questions, by all means, feel free.

I like it.

The following are build-ups of the old Monogram kit. This one won 3rd place (I forgot the category but may still have the trophy around here somewhere) at an IPMS contest in San Diego. White stripes are painted, and the red stripes are automotive pin stripe tape. This one was in the same contest, and didn't get any attention at all (I personally thought it was the better of the two models). The rear tires are from a Monogram NASCAR kit, and the front tires are the kit's original rear tires. I love performance Fords, and most of the models I've built (and will be building) are in that genre. In March, I returned to the hobby after a 23-year hiatus, and after completing a Gato-class 1/72-scale sub for my dad, I've finally started building cars again.

Has anyone ever considered doing a Overhaulin' CBP?

What did you use to mask the stripes?

I tried the Rustoleum sandable primer as well, and it works fine (it's lacquer).

I like it - a lot.

I think DM = Detail Masters, but the rest is gibberish. My translation: For that price, you may as well spend the extra $.80 and get a Detail Masters distributor kit. Craft stores like Michael's have wire in black for jewelry at $2.50 for 50 yards. The Dollar Store for telephone wire to make boots. Radio Shack has white, black, blue & red for about $5, and I found that for distributor body & cap, it's cheaper to use aluminum ($1.25) over plastic ($3.99) for the same size pieces - 1/8x12 and 3/32x12 inches. Hope this helps. Mike. I don't think English is Mike's first language.

Why? Your last statement pretty much said it. I looked all over the web for people that had already tried this paint on a styrene model, and couldn't find anything. I've never personally shot lacquer paint (other than metalizer, which doesn't really qualify because it's not really intended to be used as color or base coat (and doesn't need primer to cover well). As for the Pactra stuff, I couldn't find a Candy Blue on the shelf anywhere, but Hobby Town had it in the Pactra line. While I was looking at the candy blue, I saw the metallic blue and liked it, so I snagged a bottle. After the spoon test, I now know that Rustoleum primer works is okay on styrene and that the Pactra works on the primer, and I've actually seen it with my own eyes. I'm going to do another spoon test so I can practice my surface prep and wet sanding/polishing (never done that on a model before), and see what kind of shine I can get. I want to take as few chances as possible of screwing up a $20 model with a crappy paint job. Spoons are cheap.

Why? Your last statement pretty much said it. I looked all over the web for people that had already tried this paint on a styrene model, and couldn't find anything. I've never personally shot lacquer paint (other than metalizer, which doesn't really qualify because it's not really intended to be used as color or base coat (and doesn't need primer to cover well). As for the Pactra stuff, I couldn't find a Candy Blue on the shelf anywhere, but Hobby Town had it in the Pactra line. While I was looking at the candy blue, I saw the metallic blue and liked it, so I snagged a bottle. After the spoon test, I now know that Rustoleum primer works is okay on styrene and that the Pactra works on the primer, and I've actually seen it with my own eyes. I'm going to do another spoon test so I can practice my surface prep and wet sanding/polishing (never done that on a model before), and see what kind of shine I can get. I want to take as few chances as possible of screwing up a $20 model with a crappy paint job. Spoons are cheap.

Very nice. I think I'm going to have to check out this nail polish thing you guys are doing. Did you do any polishing after laying the paint down, or did it just come out that way?

Spoon test - I prepped two spoons, washing each with warm water/dish washing soap before painting. The paint being tested is Pactra racing Finish Metallic Blue (RC65)). This paint is intended for clear lexan R/C car bodies. I only had one color of primer (Rustoleum Gray sandable from a rattle can), so I "improvised" on the second spoon spraying half the spoon with metalizer aluminum and the other half with metalizer gunmetal. I also did no sanding between coats, and I waited about two hours after priming to paint the color coat. I also thinned the Pactra 1:1 with lacquer thinner (which may have been too much). Here are the pictures: Picture 1 - Shot inside next to a window with an incandescent ceiling light turned on. The top spoon is the metalizer primered item, and the side towards the camera is the gunmetal base. The bottom spoon is the gray rustoleum base. Picture 2 - Same shot with white printer paper used for the background. Picture 3 - Same location but shot from the window side of the photo. Right spoon is the metalizer base, and left spoon is the rustoleum base. Picture 4 - Taken outside in direct sunlight. Left spoon is Rustoleum, and right spoon is metalizer. Opinion - the metalizer as a base kinda sucks eggs. You can't mask it unless you first seal it (the color will come off with the tape). I would bet that it's not very sandable either. The gray primer allowed the color to lay down a bit smoother. I'm sure that with appropriate wet sanding, it would lay down even smoother. You're definitely going to need a clear top-coat over this paint because it dries to a semi-gloss shine. In the end, putting primer down first avoids any visible problems with this paint being any hotter. The imperfections in the paint were caused by me touching the spoons together before the paint was sufficiently dry.

That's pretty cool.

I just got done building a gato-class submarine for my dad (my first model in over 20 years), and at 52-inches, it was so huge, I really had no room to start any other models. Now that I'm done with it (you can see it here), I can start building cars. Yay! I'll be doing a 1970 Boss 429 (I started it a couple of days ago). Instead of posting ALL build progress pictures here, I'll post the link to my build log (keeps the messages here to a dull roar as far as length goes). Here's the build log. Here's a pic from the log:

I was at Hobby Town today, and found their Testor's/Pactra display. I really liked the Metallic Blue (RC65) and as near as I can tell, it's lacquer. Is that really the case? They had the Acrylic display right next to the display I was concentrating on, and those bottles had a different model number (RC-51xx). Does this paint attack styrene (it says it's for Lexan).

Mine wouldn't mind me building it, but she'd have a real probably with me keeping it. I priced out some custom display cases - and they exceeded $500.

If you click the word "Finished" in my original message, it goes to the build log for the kit. Lots of pics there. The kit is great. No real flash to speak of. Be careful putting the hull together (make sure the top of it is even). The kit I built was missing one of the hull alignment pegs, but I made one out of part of the sprue. I used beading wire for the stanchions and antenna wire instead of the thread that came with the model. It's a nice kit if you have room to display it (over 4-feet long)

I like it. The removable roof is a cool idea.

Nesco makes a dehydrator with a thermostat and a fan, and it's about $60 at Target.

No fan, and more importantly, no thermostat. I wonder how hot it gets. Target carries what looks like the same one for $40. I was thinking about buying a small fish tank and using it as a "clean room" (just flip it uside down over the model that was just painted), and let it gas-out normally. BTW, is this even necessary with lacquer?

Finished after 32 hours of work over a 3-month period.

Maybe you need to reorganize the forums. Notice in the list below, the WIP forums are more delineated, and the UUnder Glass forums are more generalized: General Rules and Announcements Introduce Yourself General Chit-Chat Works In Progress Drag Racing NASCAR Other Racing American Street Cars Foreign Street Cars Trucks (All Civilian) Tuners Other Cars (Movie Cars, etc) Military (Land Vehicles) Dioramas Under Glass Race Cars (includes "Drag Racng", NASCAR", and "Other Racing") Street Cars (includes American Street Cars, "Foreign Street Cars", "Tuners", and "Other Cars (Movie Cars, etc)") Trucks (includes "Trucks (all civilian)") Military (includes "Military (Land Vehicles)") Dioramas (duh) Other Topics Community Builds New Releases Aftermarket (resin, tires, other components) Wanted Swap/Trade/Free Model Car Clubs 1:1 Reference Photos Automotive Artwork I think all you have to do is provide a more specific forum for the different types of models, and people will generally "do the right thing". Of course, if the gallery were implemented, you probably wouldn't even need an "under glass" forum section.

I saw four or five bottles at HobbyTown here in San Antonio just this last weekend.

Chase car looks like a 71-73 Mustang (by my interpretation of the reflection)...

If you make your own wheelies bars for dragsters, would the wheels/tires from a 1/64 or 1/87-scale car be appropriate? Just thinkin' out loud...