warra48

Wow, what an amazing job, just awesome.

Great work, lovely scratchbuilding. I like it, a lot. Looking at the model, to me it is somewhat reminiscent of an early 1960s Thunderbird, and also of a period speedboat, but with a character all its own.

I've never done it with models, I'm usually more patient with modelling than anything else I do. However, I can totally identify with the feelings of the OP, and the wonderful sense of calm which envelops you after you've destroyed the object of your frustration. Some years ago, I had a lawn mower which gave me only one attempt to start it, and that was only after taking out the sparkplug and dipping it some powdered graphite. If it stalled, I'd never get it going again until the next day. One day it got me so mad, I took revenge on it with the log splitter. Had never felt so good for a long time. The first mrs warra knew about it when she saw me coming back home with the neighbour's borrowed mower. She's never let me live it down, and still happily regales the story.

I'm going with model. The panel and door lines don't look real to my eyes.

Thank you. much appreciated.

Lovely looking motor, great job. I've built a few of these. The engines have two distributors, and are twin plugs for each cylinder, should you ever wish to wire it up further. It looks really cool when you use different coloured plug leads from each distributor.

I can watch this live on local TV, but it bores the ###### out of me. Bathurst is a great track, very challenging, and probably worth watching for a while for the uninitiated just for that. However, our local V8 Supercar Race Series only allows 2 makes of cars, the local Ford Falcon, and the local Holden Commodore (GM product). The engines aren't local ones, and are imported US V8 units. It's a racing series designed for what we locals call Bogans (Trailer Park Trash, or K Mart people, just descriptive, without wanting to offend). Bogans are people who haven't learned to count past 2, thus only the two makes of cars allowed. We get quite a lot of Nascar here on TV, and I find that more interesting than our V8 Supercars.

Having built a few Porsche models over time, that's one detail I noticed which firmed up my best guess as a MODEL.

Model. That's my best guess.

Use a wad punch. It's a hollow punch, and comes in all sorts of sizes, and gives a perfect round disk. Here's a link to show you what I mean. http://www.hobbytools.com.au/prod347.htm I use sets in metric and imperial measurements for what I want.

Just for the heck of it, I voted "Real".

A 2004 Subaru Impreza RS. That's the one with the 2.5 litre normally aspirated engine from the Legacy, but with all the underpinnings and suspension from the WRX. I've done just short of 120,000 km, that's about 75,000 miles. I originally had it as my company vehicle when I still worked, but bought out the lease when I retired. My wife drives it a lot more than I do. I tend to do the 15 mile journey to and from golf twice a week in her car, a 2005 Hyundai Getz 1.5 litre, as it is a lot easier on the juice.It's only travelled 28,000 km or 17,500 miles since new.

I think it's real. Some of the details such as the thickness of the glass etc are too fine to be a model.

OK, I've done this on a few of my models. Same with cutting out the trunk (boot in Aus). You need to slowly and carefully score the gap with the back of a #11 blade. Go slowly, and eventually you will work your way all the way through the plastic, enabling you to take the door out. Then file/sand the edges smooth. It will likely leave a bit too much gap, but I glue a strip of thin Evergreen sheet styrene into the door aperture to fill the gap. Once it's dry, I file/sand it level with the surrounding body work. Test fit along the way to make sure you are happy with the result. I'm not aware of any way to cut out a door, and not leave too large a gap. In my experience, they all need filling by some means. Good luck, and it's not as hard as it sounds. Another thing, you will also need to cut the inner door panels and fix them to the inside of the cutout doors. Then there's the gaps between the outer and inner skins, which I fill with Evergreen sheet styrene shaped to size to fit the gap.

PM sent. I'm fairly sure I know what it is. Interesting find.

I'm going with "REAL" this time.

Let's go with model. It all looks too clean, and those shiny puny chains don't look anything like those I've ever seen as used by real truckies.

Nice cars. My father-in-law had a Quattro turbo, just like the gold one in the photo. It was a great car, with incredible acceleration, particularly at high speed, like 100 mph upwards.

I'll vote model. My first thought was there's not enough weight on the tyres.

Looks real to me, based on the quality of the gravel and the thinnes of the edge of the soft top. If it's a model, it's a beauty.

I agree with this method, and have used it several times moving house. My only suggestion is that instead of newspaper, you'll find toilet paper is actually much kinder on your models. It's soft and doesn't want to scratch the paint or rip off mirrors etc.

Lousy picture, and difficult to see the necessary details, but I say: MODEL

Very very nice work. Great looking engine. I have always loved those Fujimi Enthusiast kits, even though they are somewhat a labour of love to build. The fit of the parts is not always clear, so you need to be sure of what you are doing. The detail on them is fantastic, and seems to be accurate according to the research I did on the ones I built. I built the Daytona and the Dino, but my love is the Porsche 356. I've built 3 of those so far. Still one to go, the Speedster.

Great looking work. Lovely car. Please tell us how you did the panel lines?

I knew there had to be a good reason why my two main hobbies are: 1. Building models 2. Home brewing. Yes, I do have a brewery set up in my garage.