Kit Basher

Here is the perfect example of the "Snowball Effect". Since I used the Bronco front axle, I had to use the Bronco wheel mounting system, which consists of the wheel back and a bushing that glues to a stub on the axle. No problem, that will work fine on the back axle too. BUT, the F250 has the best wheels, and the Lindberg has the best tires. To use the Lindberg tires, I have to use the Lindberg wheel backs. Also, the Lindberg has brake backs, instead of just plastic model wheel backs. SO, I had to open up the centers of the Lindberg wheel backs to fit the Bronco bushings, and open up the brake backs the same way. Then I had to sand down the backs of the F250 wheels so the whole package would fit in the tire. Sanded down the bushings to adjust the track, here's the wheel backs ready for paint and mounting. Sometimes the simplest things... Advice and comments always welcome. nuff for now, more later.

Don't make it too hard on yourself Andrew. Even if it's not Kleen Strip, if it says lacquer thinner on the can, it's probably OK.

If I were to disregard all the environmental problems with a battery powered car, and there's a bunch, I would be the perfect candidate for a plug-in electric. I bet 90% or more of my trips are 30 miles or less. But I'll be dipped if I would spend 40K on one, especially when I have a car that gets 35 mpg that's paid for. Plus nobody's even speculated about what it would cost to charge that mug.

I have to agree. After I used up my bottle of Testors, I refilled it from a gallon of mineral spirits. I can't tell any difference.

I have no evidence to back this up, it's just an impression, but it seems like the airbrush thinner does work better for spraying. The brush cleaner will work, but doesn't seem to dissolve the paint as well. Then again, they could both be the same stuff with different labels. If you end up trying both, I'd be curious what your take was. As mentioned in your other thread, the pros don't bother, they use lacquer thinner to thin enamel. I haven't tried that yet.

Whatever you choose, consider putting it in another room if you can. You can pipe air to your work area (black steel pipe works well), and add a regulator and quick connect right where you paint. I always jump half out of my skin when a compressor kicks on, not helpful when trying to get a nice paint job.

I see your point, Dave. I wasn't thinking in terms of a show model. I did put a fair amount of work into the interior, although most of it was to downgrade it from an XLT to a base model. The more I think about it, the more I like the idea of having one window partially down, maybe with the wing open.

I'm just guessing, but could you use a dark metallizer and spray over it with transparent blue?

Yeah, I think I might do that, maybe make one part way open. It does have the quarter windows, and the wing vents. Why can't they at least make the windows optional? It just seems wierd to me.

Type in the right numbers and it would be!

I'm building the Monogram F250 Super Duty, and I just noticed it does not include side windows. I checked a couple of different kits, they don't have side windows either. What's up with that? Is that the standard way to make kits these days?

Somewhere on this forum I found the idea of putting solder inside the tubing before bending it. It has to fit pretty good. I bent an exhaust pipe that way, lots of sharp bends, with no breaks or kinks. When I was done bending, I held it over a torch for a few seconds, gave it a flip, and most of the solder came out.

If you know any of the dimensions of your arc, This may be helpful. If not, do your thing with that string.

Thanks, eelco. Yes, I did miss one tiny little step, didn't I? I think I will take your advice on multiple shades. Easy to do at the time, not so easy to come back to. Thanks again.

Ah hah! Boy I'm glad I ask you guys questions! That makes perfect sense, plus it makes life easy. I pick the color I want, print on clear, apply on white, done deal. Thanks, eelco, and thanks all.

Thanks Longbox, I will try to go easy on the clear. Also, if I apply clear decals over white, I'm guessing I need to print the decals a darker shade of color, to compensate for the translucency? In other words, putting a blue decal over white is kinda like mixing blue paint with white paint, you end up with light blue. Does that make sense?

I guess I should be clearer. It's not the paper itself, it's the finished decal when it's applied to the model that seems thick to me. Thanks for the help so far!

Casey, are you talking about the chisels for a hollow chisel mortiser? They would work with some re-grinding, but the smallest size I know of is 1/4". Also they would be good for making square holes, but not for cutting out square pieces. Seems like what Aaron wants should be available, but I guess you never know.

I made some decals with the Testors kit. They're fine, except they seem a little thick. Are there thinner papers than Testors, or is this just the nature of the inkjet/clearcoat process? (I used the white paper, haven't tried the clear yet.)Thanks P.S. The Testors sealer made the black ink run, Painter's Touch clear worked fine.

Thanks Charlie, I'll keep doin' the best I can.

Every time I look at this thing I think: "That is totally spectacular, but he's about done now." And then you do something even more outrageous! I couldn't believe it when you did the panelled front, and now the red! Just amazing.

Thanks, Toby. I'm a'gettin there.

Yeah, that.

The rear driveshaft from the F250 works fine with a little alteration. The rear driveshaft from the Lindberg makes a perfect front driveshaft. The last is the steering shaft with a u-joint from the Lindberg. Here's the exhaust system. The F250 converter is a cylinder, I "sectioned" it to make it an oval. The muffler is from one of the pens I destroyed for front springs. Here is the "go" for this show. 4.9L EFI from Kitchen Table resins. This thing is a total mish mash. Tranny, transfer case, starter, and oil filler from Lindberg, alternator from the Bronco. I cut the resin intake runners apart to make them wider. Not wide enough, but the best I could do. Had to make the distributor, coil, air pump, and p/s pump, and the brackets for the alternator and p/s pump. The pulleys are from all three kits. The belt is cloth tape. The 2 bbl. lookin' doohickey attached to the big box on top of the engine (don't you just love technical talk?) is from the F250. Advice and comments always welcome. nuff for now, more later.

That is the best idea for wood grain I have heard yet! For pictures of all kinds of wood,Look Here