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Psychographic

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Everything posted by Psychographic

  1. Some more work on the engine. I added a fuel rail and electronic injectors to make the engine more streetable. I also made the curved stacks that lead to a finned aircleaner, I still need to make an element for it. I also think I've got things close enough to take a stab at running the header through the fender. The intake/aircleaner. The fender cutout. Some engine bay shots. I think the engine fits well and is definitely different than your average V8.
  2. A little more detailing on the engine. The plumbing is well on its way, both radiator lines are run along with one from the block to what I'm guessing is the water pump. I'd like to add an alternator but I have no idea where it would go or what would drive it, a gear or belt?
  3. Making the header. For now it will be just the primary tubes. I'll wait on the collector for when the body and frame are further along. The exhaust is going to exit out the front fender. Now to find some stacks for the injectors. The driveshaft has been shortened and we're getting closer to a rolling chassis.
  4. I wanted an unusual engine for this build and decided to go with an Offy. I found an old Monogram Midget on ebay for a couple of bucks, and to be safe I got one of the Revell Midget kits as i didn't have much faith in the Monogram version. With my love for dirt racing, I just couldn't ruin the Revell kit by stealing the engine, so I decided to see what I could do with the mess from the Monogram kit. It took a little work, but I think I've got something decent looking. I found pics of a model of the Offy online, I hope I interpreted them correctly. I've got a few more pieces to make yet. I mated the Offy to the 94 Mustang tranny.
  5. Bryan, I've got a few feelers out on info for a painting technique. If that falls through, I was thinking of trying these. Look about 2/3 down the page for the Woody. http://www.uschivdr.com/shop/
  6. Not from what I've seen of your work. If you have the patience and skill to do those wire wheels, you could easily tackle a job like this. Now go cut that Woody up!
  7. This is my downfall. I love cutting them up, reworking them and getting in the rough stages, then a new idea pops into my head and another creation is started. I really would like to start finishing most of these.
  8. How bout a '69 RS/SS G-10?
  9. Thanks. Your '41 Plymouth is looking good. The Wagon Rod does come with some neat stuff, airide suspension with tubular A arms up front and a 4 link in the back, LS5 (I think ) engine, some cool looking modern seats, it's definitely a good donor kit.
  10. Thanks guys. A little more work on the interior, swapped out the Wagon Rod seats for the Mustang ones. Made a steering column with turn signal and tilt controls for the PE wheel.
  11. A little more work on the interior. Reworked the tunnel and added the accent piece for the rear tunnel. I really didn't like the "Euro" look of the Wagon Rod dash, but the shape was something I thought I could work with. I made sides for the center section of the dash that flows back into a console out of .030 sheet and covered the top with .010. I'll laminate that with a second layer later. In place with the seats, everything fits well. I still can't believe how perfect a fit the dash is. I still have to cap the ends of the dash, but that will have to wait until the door panels are figured out.
  12. While I'm waiting on a motor, I decided to work on the interior. It's now cemented to the chassis floorpan, the start of the tunnel for the rear to tuck into, and a platform to mount the dash/console from a 39 Wagon Rod. The seats are also from the Wagon Rod. The dash fits the windshield contour perfectly. While I had the Wagon Rod open, I played around with it for about 20 minutes, this is what I came up with so far.
  13. Talk about a Silk Purse from a Sow's Ear! Great job.
  14. I dropped the body in place to check the stance.
  15. I decided to toss the coilovers and go with airbags. The bags. Rear Front I added some braces to the frame. It still needs a trans mount, but I'm waiting on an engine so I don't know where it needs to go. She sits pretty low!
  16. Yes, but you are talking about conventional rockets. These are Ira's SOOPERHITEKCARBONGRAPHITEAMMONIUMPOLYMERGOFAST rockets. I can assure you, they need intakes! Now for my good friend on the opposite coast. have you gone full circle in that you undealing a DW? I thought the idea was to put bigger wheels on a scale car, not smaller wheels on a DW. I'm curious to see where you are taking this. I know it will be crazy! Carry on buddy.
  17. I'm using the rear from a Mongram 94 Mustang. Before cementing the rear together I hollowed out the axle tubes enough for a 1/16" rod to go through the inside ends, then after the cement dried, I cut out the center housing. This needed to be done to get the pinion angle correct. The pieces ready for assembly along with a new crossmember for the rear to mount to.. You can see in this pic that I'm starting to narrow the rear just enough to tuck the tires. Again cut, drill and pin. The left side is done. The rear in place. You can also see the additions to the frame for the notches along with new beefier rear crossmembers.. It's starting to look like something!
  18. Time for suspension, let's start with the front crossmember. And some suspension arms. Mocking it together. Springs and shocks,
  19. The frame sitting in the body, I just need to cut the front of the body a bit and I'll have a perfect fit.
  20. Some cool stuff here. http://www.craftsmanshipmuseum.com/memuseum1.htm
  21. Thanks for the comments everyone. With the body back in one piece, it just seemed too sturdy. So lets weaken up by cutting the doors and tailgate/window out. As the stock frame was too long, and shortening it to fit would destroy that beautiful X support it has, I decided to make my own frame. I traced the profile of the stock frame onto some .040 sheet, then redrew it with the appropriate amount missing. Checking it against the body. I then cemented the rail to more .040 and cut it out, the process was repeated for the other rail. Some 1/16" rod was used to space the frame out .
  22. Time to start cementing the pieces back together. The first obstacle was lining the front of the newly extended door to the back. There are 3 rows of wood trim that no longer line up. I wound up lining up the bottom of the top "rail" as a starting point. The grooves lined up but the top didn't, a simply bit a sanding cured that. Next was the middle and bottom rails. I cut the back of the middle one out completely (it's under the tape). and cut through the top of the bottom rail the almost the entire length. I tapered a piece of .030 to uses as a filler on the bottom rail. With just a little filing, the back of the center rail is lined up and cemented in place. Everything lines up now. The body cemented back together. Shortening up the interior and headliner. The notch in the floor is to allow the seats to move back and match the longer doors.
  23. I haven't posted anything in a while. I can't stay focused on any builds, I get them pretty much mocked into shape, then get bored and move on. This isn't fair to anyone following any of the builds, so that is why I've been absent. This build is for an all ford contest, so I have a goal to finish it and will! On to the build. A Revell Monogram 48 Ford Woody. If you know me or are familiar with my work, nothing stays stock, so let the cutting begin. Two doors too many. Throw some wheels and tires on it for a look see. Even though it has a bit of a cartoony look, I like it. Note the body is just taped together at this point. As much as I did like the catoon look, I felt it needed to come back to "scale", so out came the razorsaw again. Now it's proportions are somewhat back to balanced, it takes a quick second to realize how short is is,
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