fitforbattle
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Posts posted by fitforbattle
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If you're using Tamiya TS-13 wait at least four weeks(preferably longer) before applying it over your base color.It has a different cure rate than the colors and WILL crack if applied too soon.
Those louver decals aren't as bad as they look.I did one of the older Skyline GT-R race cars with that same situation.I was prepared for difficulties and was pleasantly surprised when nothing bad happened-and I didn't even need any setting solution to make the pieces snuggle down!
Yes, I know about the ts-13 and I've waited 2 or 3 weeks now so I'm not rushing it.
Tamiya are kind enough to cut the decal over the vents into multiple pieces. So all and all no worries.
Thanks all for the kind comments!
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Magnificent.
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Have fun Robin, and those decals may take longer than you expect
Here's mine that I built some time ago:
Thanks you.
And now I have to live up to your Z. Yours looks spectacular.
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I recently bought a large foldable, and I was sceptical at first, but it turns out it was really practical. Now, I can have a small cutting mat for when I do small work with few parts, concentrating on a smaller area, but I can also double the size when needed.
Might seem like an unnecessary thing but it is crucial for me since I no longer have a workbench; all my building takes place on the dining table. And nothing can go on the dining table, so I have to fit everything more or less on my cutting mat.
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Now THIS is why I love reading the Q's and A's. The amount of knowledge, and experience, and willingness to help is amazing. The stuff you speak of and the way you guys do it, all for the sake of helping with accurate model building, blows my mind.
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Sooooon! My first model to make the move from Workbench to Under Glass. Just Semi-final assembly left.
Polished the body today and painted some detail. Left to do is P/E and some tedious decal work.
But I can feel the finish line.
Stay tuned!
/Robin -
I have also vaguely noticed that the caps dry to the jars, so I've started to gently wipe the brim with moist paper.
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The black grille and star looks amazing. Great job
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Go Fujimi, or the Revell re-issues of the Fujimi kits as Rob mentioned. The bodies are well proportioned, but there are differences in bodywork through the years, and several of the Fujimi kits reflect these differences. Do your homework if you have a particular "look" you're after, as the differences are subtle but obvious.
The IMC kits Rob mentioned have some odd proportions and are also more challenging because of all the extra detail and opening doors, but the extra detail and doors are NOT done particularly well. There's also AMT and Union reboxed IMC kits, and an old Aurora (reissued as Revell/Monogram) Ford GT with a drooping-pointy nose and wire wheels. The LS/Arii kit is so bad it's not even worth mentioning...proportions all wrong.
If you want to make a full-detail car from the Fujimi kits, trans-kits are available, or you can swap in smallblock or big-block Ford engines if you like modifications and some scratch-building.
Here's a recent thread on this exact topic. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=67630
Thanks for the input. Yes, I was thinking of going in the opposite direction first, taking the best kit (if there was one) and let that decide the model GT40 for me.
But now that I can choose it'll def. be a Gulf livery car.
Curbside... Doesn't matter really, I just want one of these beautiful cars on my shelf. However resin transkits are always dangerous ifyaknowhatimean.
And sorry I missed that previous thread.
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Thanks a lot. So if I want to build one, no matter year or livery, which one should I take? Or could you say that if I take a Fujimi I'll be okay?
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Not aware of any from Aoshima or Hasegawa. Fujimi made some very nice 1/24th ones (curbside) about 10-15 years ago. A couple of the Fujimi versions were reboxed as Revell kits about 25 years ago. There were others made by IMC (full detail, opening doors and engine compartment) and other companies (Aurora?) 40+ years ago, but the Fujimi versions are still easy enough to find (at least on eBay).
Yeah... Fujimi... That's the maker I meant.
So if I find a revell kit it's a Fujimi?
Is there any difference between the Fujimi kits?
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Wise words from Tommy, however I've lived my life after the words from the late Colin McRae: "When in doubt, flat out" which is the exact opposite.
On topic... This build is... Amazing. Speechless with every update. Can't wait for the next one.
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As topic reads, which is the best one? Like... Feels like aoshima and Hasegawa has 10 versions each.
I want both types of "best": most accurate vs. Best fit. Easiest to build etc. You get it.
Thanks.
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Yes, sure looks like a '69. Alltho I'm no expert, it looks exactly like my model.
Chadrob30: Nice. Not a fan of the vinyl tops though.
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Ehrm... This is Model Cars Mag... Not Real Cars Mag. Quit showing off.
Nah but really. Perfect! Both car and photos.
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Welcome back and paint looks great and shiny! Have fun!
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Geez Mark, that's an impressive list.
My mom got her drivers license last year so she's only ever owned one car: a '96 Opel Tigra. It's really a Ferrari for mothers.
My dad's owned more cars than I have fingers, he's the car enthusiast of the family and the one who got me into cars and model cars. Me myself? Never had the need for a car so I don't have a license. Now this summer, I'll get it though. I need to get out on the streets.
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I thought of doing that. Now that I know it works, I'll do it. Thanks!
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Any updates Mike? Been missing seeing you build.
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She's a beauty Shaun. Can't believe people would crush a car like that.
Got the chassis mocked up a couple of days ago. Still bummed out that it's crooked. No idea what to do... Finger burning hot water didn't work.
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A mixbreed of snakes, a cobra with a vipers head. Great job.
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Came to mind... Perfect for trying some new weathering.
revell 71 cuda
in WIP: Model Cars
Posted
Technically, it's on top of glass
She's beautiful. Well done.