Harry P.

mmmmmmmmmmm....beer............

Good idea. It's not too late to do that, either. It would dress up the trunk, that's for sure!

I don't think so. You guys would have noticed the panel lines and door handles right away! Nice model, though...

Better idea: RENT the movie for just a buck or two and do the same thing. Unless you want to own the movie, that is...

Since BMF isn't shipped in refrigerated trucks, and it's not displayed in the LHS's refrigerator case, I don't see how the people at BMF can tell the consumer that the product has to be refrigerated. Who's to say how long the stuff was on display at the hobby shop, unrefrigerated, before you bought it? If BMF must be refrigerated to keep it from cracking, what's the point of doing that after you've just bought a sheet that's been sitting somewhere at room temp. for who knows how long??? The damage has already been done! I wish the people at BMF would try and correct the problem that's inherent in their current product. The only way to get a good sheet of BMF these days is to order direct from the manufacturer. The stuff on display in the stores is iffy at best.

All you would of had to do is clearcoat it! Many people use paints that are flat or semi-gloss as the base color (sometimes, like you said, because the color is only available that way), and then just shoot clear gloss over the top. That's the way real cars are painted (base color coat and clear gloss topcoat). Works great on models too! Now you know, for your next one!

A satin finish on the paint???

I had mine removed years ago, and like others have said, I was put under first. Afterwards I took the painkillers the dentist prescribed, and basically the whole process/recovery was painless. I've had more pain from a sore throat... so wisdom teeth removal should be a piece of cake.

What do you say to this one? The answer: REAL!

Let your own eyes be the judge: http://www.tamiya.com/english/products/lis...ay/kit85001.htm

After 25 years I'd say you got your money's worth out of your Paasche... if it was me I'd get another one! Do a google search and you'll find dozens of AB suppliers. Buy it online (not at a hobby shop)... you'll pay way less! Most hobby shops charge retail, and only you-know-whats want to pay retail!

Lacquers dry quickly. No need to wait much longer than a day or so (It'll be dry sooner, but better safe than sorry). You can apply the foil over the paint and then clear the whole works, or clear the paint and apply the foil last... it's a matter of personal preference. I do the foil last, and don't clearcoat over it, because I feel it looks more realistic to leave the foil "bare". Most "chrome" trim on a car from the 50s, 60s and 70s that we foil, like windshield moldings, side spears, etc. is actually polished stainless steel on the real car, and it isn't really quite as shiny as true chrome plating, like you'd see on a bumper, for instance...so to my eye the "buried under clear" look of BMF is a little "modelish" looking most of the time. And in 30+ years, I've never ever had a piece of foil "fall off". But as mentioned, some people like to do the foil first and then top off with clear. It's really up to personal preference...whichever look you prefer. Either way works fine. But in some specific cases the "chrome" trim would be quite shiny (like the vacuum-plated plastic trim on late model cars), so burying the foil under clear in that specific instance would be a good idea. Look at photos of the real car as reference, and notice the different levels of shine the trim has, and alter your technique accordingly.

Kind of hard to see what's going on...your photos are WAY out of focus...

Get yourself a spiral binder and write down everything you know before you have them removed. That notebook will come in very handy afterwards...

Only if I can find a body...

Dave, your "rust" is just about the best I've seen. I'd say you have the technique down cold.

Bare Metal Foil has had a BIG problem lately...it's all too common for the sheet of foil to be totally criss-crossed with cracks, making it impossible to cut a large piece of foil. The reason for the cracking has been discussed here many times, but basically BMF these days is pretty much a "hit or miss" proposition as far as getting a useable sheet. If you can manage to find a good sheet of BMF, without the cracks, it's the best way to simulate "chrome" trim.

Good tip! The ink washes will settle down into all the grooves and recesses where you're most likely to have slightly wavy painted edges and "straighten out" your color division lines, while at the same time giving the chassis a realistic look. If you take your time detail painting, and then add black washes, you should wind up with a chassis that looks great...

Ditto on that. Nice to see something other than the "same old same old" under the hood! Very cool! BTW...ya might think about adding a master cylinder...you know, in case you ever want to stop!

That's it exactly. A fine brush and a steady hand. Masking would be tricky, with all the ins and outs you'd have to contend with. Liquid masking wouldn't be much help either, because you have to paint it on with a brush...so you'd still only get as straight a line as you could paint anyway! Best way to detail a chassis like this is to take your time, use a good brush, and don't worry about being too perfect. If you make a mistake, you can always go back and clean up the color separation line by touching up with the color you "over-ran". And remember...it's the bottom of the model. Nobody's going to see it unless you show it to them! Unless you're entering a contest, don't worry about a few imperfections.

Gotta be the jokes!

Try to keep up with the tour group, George.. I'll have to dig up a real good ROM for Monday...just for you!

Well, well...looks like I fooled a good chunk of you guys! It's REAL! The next ROM coming MONDAY! And until then, one last laff: A blonde, a brunette, and a redhead had entered a 100 meter breast-stroke swimming race. "Remember ladies...breast stroke only. Anything else will be considered cheating", the starter reminded them. "On your marks, get set...GO!" The starter shot his pistol and the three dove into the water and began swimming. A few minutes later, the brunette finished and jumped out of the water, followes a few seconds later by the redhead. About twenty minutes later, the blonde finally emerged. They awarded the gold medal to the brunette, the silver to the redhead, and the bronze to the blonde. As they placed the bronze medal around her neck, the blonde whispered, " I don't want to sound like a sore loser, but I think the other two used their arms."

Thanks for your responses, guys, but unfortunately "been there done that". What I want, specifically, is a Ford sedan body, early 30s. Similar to the "Orange Crate"...I have the urge to build a 1/8 version of something along these lines.. .

Anyone out there know of a source for 1/8 scale resin (or any other material, for that matter) early 30s Ford sedan bodies?