Harry P.

Tim Ahlborn, who writes the Trucks column for the magazine, is a master at shooting his models to look like the real thing. If you've ever seen his column in MCM, you know what I'm talking about.

I would love to have seen the look on the face of the McD employee when you pulled up to the window!

Thanks, Bruce. I am totally pumped to do the 1/8 scale version. Getting it done in 1/16 convinced me that I can do it in 1/8.

Thanks, Gary! Always nice to get an "OK" on a RR model from an actual Englishman!

Bill, thanks for your insight.

Nope. Never even heard of it.

I'm a big fan of "Detailing Without Dollars." I do it all the time. With a little ingenuity and some "out of the box" thinking, all sorts of common household items can be used to detail model cars. Your Mustang looks great, BTW.

If you know the source of the photo don't post that info here! It ruins the game for everyone else. So what do you think? Real or model? The answer: REAL!

That's Photoshopped.

Nicely done.

Scroll down, click on any of the album titles, then scroll down to see the track listing and who wrote what. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hole_discography

World's shortest driveshaft! That's really neat! Nicely done, and the skeleton guy looks very cool. I love the gun belt on his "hips!" Nice job!

So "regular" epoxy consists of resin and hardener, while JB Weld consists of resin, hardener, and powdered steel, I believe? That would explain how cured JB Weld is substantially harder than "regular" epoxy when cured, and can actually be drilled and tapped. The suspended steel particles give it the hardness that regular epoxy doesn't have. JB Weld is not significantly "stickier" than regular epoxy as an adhesive, but harder when cured. Correct?

I agree the craftsmanship and workmanship is outstanding. Just questioning the engineering details. But as far as sheer model building talent, this man has it!

Where in the world did you hear that???? Not true.

Now that's cool!

Is JB Weld a form of epoxy? I'm talking about the old-fashioned "original" stuff that's silvery gray in color. Is it stronger than "regular" 5-minute epoxy? I mean stronger as in harder when cured, not necessarily better stick.

I've never tried it that way. Maybe I should, just to see which way gives better results. But either way I'm a big fan of the stuff. It may not be the equal of kit plating, but I'd say it's 90-95%. If I didn't say otherwise, I'd bet nobody would suspect that the "chrome" on my Rolls is actually spray paint!

Not really. Maybe I'm just lucky, but I spray it on like any other paint... maybe a touch less, though. I seem to get the best "chrome" effect using less of it... seems like if you lay it on too thick the "chrome" effect isn't as strong. Here's that same model earlier in the building process... '

Thanks! There's a link in that first post to the step-by-step WIP if you're interested.

I don't mean to bash the model either. It's just that the guy is so obviously talented and an apparent stickler for detail... so I wondered just how true-to-life this thing really is.

It's very simple. I used real wood. The grain is built in!

If we're going to go into the engineering of it (and why not?)... I wonder if this is a model of a "real" Salt Flats racer... or at least if the engineering is true to life. Specifically I wonder about coilovers and leaf springs? Is that how it's done on these cars? And if so... why?

I've had good results with Spaz Stix. All the chrome on this model is done with it.

That is some very impressive work. And this builder is an "unknown!" Makes you wonder how much talent is out there, building incredible models that are never entered in contests or ever seen by the public.