Harry P.

The top irons in the kit are wrong... I'll have to scratchbuilt the whole thing. The way the kit parts attach to the seat shell is also wrong, so I had to fill in the indentations with strip styrene... And a little Bondo... One detail missing from all of these Aurora kits is the bolt heads on the fenders that attach the fender brackets. I drilled the fenders and inserted small brass nails to simulate them.

Oh, ok... I didn't scroll down. But how is it possible that so many bids were cancelled? Obviously something suspicious was going on here... right?

Instead of super glue or epoxy, both of which would be impossible to apply to such a thin area without making a mess, I'd use acrylic clear as the "glue." Use a fine brush to paint the acrylic along the kit piece where you want the chrome strip, then apply the strip carefully, using the tip of your brush to position it and smooth things out. Clear acrylic will give you plenty of time to position the strip before it sets up.

I'm suggesting that at the ripe old age of 17 you haven't spent enough time on the planet yet to be making wise guy commentaries about stuff you don't know.

Yeah, but you're 17...

Very nice work all the way around. The chassis detailing is beautifully done.

Beautiful!

Opening doors for sure. But no tufted interior on a woodie... way too fancy. I'm picturing a sporting country gentleman's hunting car... simple smooth leather upholstery, rubber floor that can be easily hosed down. The photo I posted is just an example... I have tons more to work from. I'm thinking something more along these lines...

Nobody? Nobody has this DVD? Alrighty, then... I'll go by the Amazon reviews. Gonna buy it regardless. My daughter gave me an Amazon gift card for Christmas... it's high time I used it!

Must have been a typo. I checked the bidding history... it was never at $200,000.

Probably several, if you sweet-talked them with manufacturing...

I admit I have put the Rolls on the back burner for too long. I just really got into the 1/16 scale models lately and bought a bunch of them. Really having fun throwing them together, no hassles like with a Pocher. When I do get back to my Pochers, I'll probably start turning the "Star of India" RR into a shooting brake... a project I have been planning and researching literally for years now. This is what I have in mind. Real wood, of course...

Danbury Mint made (in my opinion) some of the finest diecast models. But to me it seems like price gouging to suddenly jack up the price of their "last" model more than $100 over the "regular" price of most of their models. Obviously they're playing the "last one ever" game... but I'm not going to fall for it. I have a LOT of DM models... I've been a customer since the "dogleg" hinge days, and I'm really sorry to see it end. But no way am I forking over $250 for that last one. I have a feeling I'll find it for far less soon on ebay.

Ok... four pages of "intro." Enough yapping. Let's start seeing some photos!

Plenty of visible rust. Which means even more that you don't see. The bottom of the door is actually rusted through..

159 bids. Looks like quite a few people want it. Unless they're all shills.

One of the basic truisms of Pocher kits! No wonder so many of them go up on ebay partly built...

There's such a big difference between the two, that most of the detailing you can do on a 1/8 scale model is practically (and in many cases literally) impossible to do in 1/16 scale. I mean, you can use actual nuts and bolts in 1/8 scale... hardware that actually scales out pretty well. But imagine using 1/16 scale hardware!

By suggesting an easier way to do it instead of using aluminum.

Not much drag at 15 mph...

What about a Trabant with a big spoiler?

Wouldn't thin sheet styrene formed around circular bulkheads be a lot easier than working with sheet aluminum? I know it would be for me...

And those two are actually higher than any natural point in the whole state!