Harry P.

You can't take shrinkwrapped to mean "new" or "never opened." You can always re-wrap a box that has already been opened.

I'd add a push bar up front.

I don't work for the government. They still take the money I make.

Very nice. The thin chrome trim around the side windows is nicely done.

I have been asked to intervene and settle trade disputes many times, and from experience I can say that the absolute NUMBER ONE rule to keep in mind when you trade is this: There are NO GUARANTEES that your trade will go as expected.

Even though I only had one ladder to work off of, careful measurement allowed me to build all three ladders with the accuracy necessary to allow them to nest and slide without binding. Here are the ladders in the retracted position (minus the cables to raise/lower them yet to be installed): I'm very happy with how this assembly turned out. The fact that the ladders are made of real wood adds so much to the look of realism.

Outstanding. And ditto on the color, it looks right at home on that car. Beautiful work,

Tim does a lot of work for SA, but we're lucky to also have him as part of our "family." And the cool thing is that we will run a Tim Boyd article about a subject that SA probably wouldn't touch. So everyone wins.

It looks like some sort of bug to me.

Please post questions in the questions area.

Please post questions in the area for questions.

Please post model building questions in the Question section.

This week's car is a Caparo T1, built from 2007-12. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caparo_T1 Many of you answered 2006 Freestream, which was the concept car, but since it looked just like the production car, you got credit, too. Who got it right: Foxer otherunicorn Erik Smith maltsr DonW slusher Gee Bee Badluck 13 wisdonm mr chips Matt Bacon Chris R mr moto customsrus Thom Tim J MikeMc trogdor KingSix patami George53 matthijgrit

Subscribing is cheaper than buying individual issues. And they come right to your door.

Is the CHRYSLER lettering on the hood and the rear fenders a decal?

Cool! Carl, you're always finding nice videos!

I've heard of them, never heard them. I'll check them out on youtube. A good looking blonde is always a good selling point...

One of my basic modeling philosophies is to scratchbuild instead of relying on aftermarket parts. In some cases, you can't avoid using aftermarket parts... for example, on my Pocher Mercedes that I have posted in the past, I used aftermarket headlights, (among other things), because I have no way of scratchbuilding chrome-plated headlight buckets. But if I can scratchbuild a part, I do. Here is a perfect example. There are no sources of 1/16 scale turnbuckles that I know of, but looking at what a turnbuckle is, I figured I could scratchbuild one pretty easily. The kit supplies a length of chain for this application, but my reference photos all show that these braces were actually steel cable, not chain. The turnbuckles are made of various bits and pieces of styrene, sheet aluminum, and aluminum tubing and rod. The "steel" cable is plain old heavy-duty gray sewing thread. Once I had the turnbuckles built, I sprayed them silver, then transparent window tint (my favorite detailing "secret weapon!") to darken and define them. Then I attached the cables and turnbuckles, painted the thread with a metallic steel color acrylic craft paint, and finally added a black wash (my "secret formula" of water, Future and black acrylic craft paint). Here's the result:

Any kit can be built into an accurate representation of the subject. The question is, how much work are you willing (and able) to put into fixing the problems with the kit? Some kits may require only minor tweaks, some kits require major "remanufacturing" of parts or scratchbuilding of missing and/or inaccurate parts. I have a slightly different take on things. If you're new to Indy/F1 cars, I'd actually suggest you start with a better kit (Tamiya)... a kit that is more accurate, with better engineering and better parts fit, right out of the box. While it may have more parts than a simplified Monogram kit, it would actually wind up being easier for you to build an accurate, well detailed kit vs. taking a sub-par kit and trying to "fix" it as you go. I guess it depends on how important accuracy is to you, but if it was me, I'd want to start with the highest quality kit that I can get my hands on.

I know that the magazine arrives "late" if you go by the cover month. I won't excuse that, it's an issue that's "above my pay grade," as they say. But the bottom line is, if you paid for a 9 issue subscription (a year's worth of magazines), you will get 9 issues. Isn't that really the point?

They're extinct, because today's cars have to meet ever more stringent federal government MPG standards... which means cut as much weight as possible... which means if thinner sheetmetal will save a few pounds per car, then thinner sheetmetal it is.

I have never seen a better example of this model. Very nice.

Just saw this today for the first time. Absolutely beautiful work. First class all the way. That underhood shot is especially impressive.

Wow, Rich, that is a beauty! I absolutely love your interior work, what a great addition to this model. Not bad for a $10 model!

Beautiful! You are definitely the "Gluebomb King!"