Zoom Zoom

Y'know, that looks very similar to the color scheme on my Mom's 1957 Dodge station wagon, a car which she loved. Nice work 8)

Yellow is the most difficult color to deal with IMHO, so prep work is most important when painting yellow. I had so much trouble w/panel line washes in white/yellow cars that I started using a .005 black pigment liner pen (disposable technical pen) on the panel lines between color coats, but scribing the panel lines deeper is another solution, whether or not the panel lines are detailed any further. I'm surprised how weak some of the engraving is on the Cayman. Ismael, have you noticed the odd placement of the corner lamps on the Cayman? For some reason they've offset the lamps which should line up w/panel lines, but they don't. The taillights are also dangerously close to not lining up w/the panel lines. From experience, it's important to fit all headlight/taillight lenses to any Fujimi body before painting and before final assembly, often they require a good amount of tweaking to fit properly :roll:

Absolutely stunning 8) Nice work, and a fantastic way to rejoin the hobby.

Fujimi may be our saving grace; they're doing a lot of Ferraris these days, from modern cars such as the Fiorano, Superamerica, F430, and vintage stuff such as the Boxers. They have just announced they're going to do Gilles Villeneuve's Ferrari 126C2 in 1/20 scale. Here's hoping/dreaming that the Testa Rossa, Lusso, and perhaps other vintage Ferraris might be in their future pipeline-I think they're finding the Ferrari license to be worth it, as they're bringing more and more of them out. And if they say they're going to do it, it won't be 3 years of nada while we twiddle our thumbs waiting for...nada :wink:

No kidding, I'm over model companies getting people's hopes up by announcing stuff that never sees the light of day. They created the monster that makes people not believe anything unless they see a test shot. Until then, it's all hot air.

19" BBS RE's issued in Japan on April 17. Box illustration is a bit deceptive, the RE's on a Ferrari have a thinner rim and look better. http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10057042

That's a good story. I also thought they were doing great things when I talked w/them a few years ago, but at this point I'm ready to see product, and not hear any more rumors or stories. I'll believe it when I see it. We've waited years now for AM's 289 Cobras and Corvette Grand Sport roadster, where are they? I'm skeptical, at best.

I'll have to test the Testors clear to see how it works, also need to test Future as a sealer. Most new kits, even molded in color, don't seem to have a color bleed issue, but they often have ghosting/crazing issues if there's any bodywork and the top coats are automotive paint. Zinsser B-I-N is a white shellac based primer/sealer that you get at Home Depot or Lowes, comes in cans for brush/airbrush, or tall spray cans (lousy nozzles) that you can replace the nozzle or transfer to airbrush. I know from experience that it's a great sealer. If you have doubts whether you'll have any problem with using a hot automotive paint on your model, you really need to use a sealer like this. Just apply a quick coat of regular primer first (whatever you like, Tamiya, Duplicolor, Plastikote). Then apply the B-I-N after it's dry. You can then paint anything over the B-I-N, it's a great primer that you can shoot color over, or more of your regular primer. B-I-N is thinned w/alcohol. It sands to a fine powder. Some people swear by Variprime as a sealer. I swear at it :wink: . It did not work for me as I had hoped, it's incredibly hard to mix (as are other sealers from MCW and B-I-N in pint/quart cans), and it's incredibly toxic to breathe. It's expensive when you buy it and the reducer. People who use Variprime and like it don't want to hear that cheaper/less toxic sealers actually work better for a loudmouth like me . My point is if you are in the market for a sealer, start with something like Future or B-I-N or Glosscote and see for yourself if that works before going nuclear.

Great! Glad I was able to help.

Actually I have used clear vinyl repair glue very recently. My comments still apply, at least for me. One would need athroscopic surgical skills to apply any kind of glue to those emblems without making a mess. To me it would be like using a paint roller to repair a rock chip on my car. I've used many of these kinds of transfers (they're in many of the Tamiya models that I've built), believe me, if there was an easier way I'd let everyone know in this thread. I would expect over time that input from consumers getting through to the manufacturer might yield a better underlying adhesive used for these emblems. They're already improved over what was out there 10-12 years ago.

If one has microscopes for eyes and tools fit for the hands of a mouse, it might work. The emblems are tiny and I know for certain I'd make a terrible mess if I used anything as thick and unwieldy as rubber cement for them :wink:

Looks killer so far 8) I'm waiting for Revell's Uptown 300C SRT-8 for the same kind of conversion. I'm hoping Revell's front end is a better fit than AMT's, and it has the SRT-8 chin spoiler.

I'm digging this car in the new paint scheme 8)

Great model of a funky/cool car, fantastic restoration 8)

The backs of the emblems aren't terribly sticky; that's a common complaint. Sometimes it seems like the adhesive on the clear backing sheet is stronger. Seems the Danbury Mint is using similar transfer emblems on their models, some of the collectors are going nuts because when they clean their models the emblems may come off. You might want to seal the emblems once applied w/some clear paint or Future. I wish they had a bit more stick, but they are the most authentic looking chrome emblems by a long shot. The diecast guys want their tampo printed emblems or decals back :roll:

How are you applying them? You have to lay the clear film w/the PE part over the area to be applied, then use some sort of burnishing tool to press the part into place, then gently peel back the clear. You can use the rounded end of a paintbrush handle or a ballpoint pen. I have an old burnishing tool for dry transfer lettering that I use. When you begin to peel the clear, you'll see if the part actually stuck. If not, press the backing onto the surface again and reburnish. A little practice goes a long way, these transfers work well once you get the hang of it; first time results are usually disappointing. Good thing that Crazy Modeler gives you extras, unlike kit makers that give you one set and only one chance to get them right.

That's too cool! 8) Did you put Jose's "NO WAY" license plate on it?

I'm looking forward to seeing more of this one! Great tip on rescribing the body; I'm sure you noticed the strangeness around the rear quarter glass where you remove the mold line. I haven't worked on my kit yet, but I stripped and reshot a silver Hot Wheels Cayman S into white & gave it to Wayne on Sunday. I used a trick to get it out and back into the package so it looks like it came this way:

The parts-pack RE's aren't out until the end of April according to Hobbylink, they're from the already-available F430 Optional Parts Version (wheels and sport seats are the difference). http://www.hlj.com/product/FUJ12256 http://www.hlj.com/product/FUJ12269 Z06 w/RE's from my F430 kit: These wheels would be great for the Fiorano if they were just one scale inch larger in diameter.

Pictures are worth a thousand words. Here is the Revell Fiorano w/wheels we've discussed. With Museum Collection 18's; so small the car doesn't look like a Ferrari: With 19" Fujimi F430 Challenge centerlock wheels; looks better in the photo than in real life: With Maisto stock F430 wheels (they trounce the Fujimi ones) looks kinda like a Z06 :shock: : With a couple home-brew wheels. The rims are Pegasus plastic Vanquish/Vantage w/o the centers, the fronts have Lamborghini Sportec 19's and the rears have resin repops of the Museum Collection 18" Challenge wheels. I'm going to slice up some BBS RE's and put them in these rims for my 599 as they're closer to the real design and fit the rim better, and I'll use a smaller diameter front tire:

Is BBS in that big of trouble? I knew it was bad but hadn't heard anything lately. You're on your own for Daytona inserts, no current kit from anyone seems to have quite what you're looking for. Fujimi Maranello seats are hideous, Revell's have better shape but the inserts have offset "fingers", definitely not Daytona inserts. Expensive? Those Museum Collection metal wheels are awfully expensive compared to Fujimi wheels, considering they're two sizes too small for a Fiorano. But we all know outfitting a Ferrari properly isn't for the weak :wink: I tried some Maisto F430 wheels under the Fiorano, the size fits great and they look great on the car, if not for the fact it suddenly looks like a Z06 that way. Probably why the satan wheels are standard, and not twin-spoke wheels like the F430 and Enzo.

Before anyone makes any expensive mistakes, please read the following. I have all the aforementioned wheels. The Museum Collection wheels are 18's, they're the exact same diameter and width as stock 5 spoke Tamiya 360 Modena wheels. They're so small on the Fiorano they get lost under there. The Fujimi BBS RE's are the closest in design, but they're 19's, the F430 Challenge wheels are centerlocks and have a slightly different shape of spoke and are the identical diameter as the BBS RE's. Unfortunately both of these Fujimi wheels also get lost under the large wheel openings of the Fiorano. So far nobody makes correct BBS wheels for a Fiorano. I'm picky enough that I'd not be satisfied w/undersized Challenge wheels on the model. If anything kit wheels need to be +1 to look correct visually in scale. I'm planning to take a set of Pegasus Vanquish 2-piece wheels, remove the centers (they're separate), and cut/fit Fujimi RE's in their place. This makes for a very good look, though not as nice as stock Challenge wheels because the rim portion is a bit thicker. But it's a better choice than all the undersized options so far. Unless someone takes some RE's and does the Coleman stove white gas trick to expand an RTV mold to the right size to make one master of larger than stock diameter. If you have some .020" plastic sheet, you can wrap the RE wheel in one thickness to get it to just about the perfect diameter, and stretch the tire over it. I've seen modelers use this trick to make some traditionally undersized Fujimi wheels look much better visually.

Turned out fantastic Izzy! 8)

Here's a sneak peak at the box, contents, instructions. Somewhat different construction and parts breakdown vs. Revell. If Fujimi kits a variant w/Challenge wheels I'll get one then. I am looking forward to comparing the two side by side. The Fiorano looks 1000% better w/factory 20" Challenge wheels but of course the kits have the ugly pentagram wheels :roll: http://www.1999.co.jp/eng/10055803 I may have to make mine look like this: Grigio Titanio w/factory 20" Challenge wheels. MSRP $328K :shock:

Jairus, you are referring to a different resin caster. Resilient Resins is not the subject at hand! And I agree; I've seen a Resilient Resin body, and was not impressed. It was definitely not up to JF standards.