Zoom Zoom

Go to the drugstore/Wally World, get a few pints of 91% isopropyl rubbing alcohol, put it in a sealed-lid container, immerse the body and it should strip the paint quite effectively. If the paint doesn't soften and come off quickly, take a scrunge pad to it to get the surface roughed up. Relatively fresh Tamiya comes off well w/this. Otherwise your best bet is Polly S Easy Lift Off paint remover; wipe it on and put the body in a ziplock bag and let it do it's stuff. Don't even think "Castrol Super Clean". It won't work.

I've only watched the process, but you de-air the silicone after mixing it and before pouring the mold. The silicone expands a tremendous amount, the mold box would be an utter mess if you poured the mold and then vacuumed it. The vacuum chamber my friend was using was clear-the silicone grows like bread dough when it's rising, but to a much higher degree. You'll never believe how much air is in the silicone until you see the vacuum chamber in action.

The more I think about it, the more disastrous this model appears. You guys could go through all that work (unnecessary if Revell would quit sleeping during class) and have the body look better; but what if you do that and Revell's decals are sized/shaped for the terribly wrong rear fender profile? The problems w/this kit create a domino effect. This effort by Revell is so...wrong. I really hope they get it right, but I'm not holding my breath.

Great model! Looks pretty sinister 8)

Great Camaro-the color/graphics are killer 8)

I just don't get it. It would have cost them no more to do it right, yet they settle for this? The wheelbase issue isn't a good excuse, they could easily shorten it w/the rear suspension and just move the axle forward a bit. I think it's a case of someone not looking over someone else's shoulder, I'm not putting blame on anyone in particular, but seriously-this is 2007 and Revell knows how to do a good looking kit; I know using the 1/24 scale model hinders it in the first place, but any one of us could massage that beast into submission, so why couldn't the tooling and design guys do that???

The last word on this subject: 'nuf said :wink:

Wow, that story is quite disappointing. There is plenty of reference for the car and they're spending a good amount of $$ to "fix" something incorrectly. I don't eat, sleep, and breathe those cars, but in that first picture from the side I could tell the C pillar wasn't long enough, and that the upper fender line was arced all wrong. Dave's picture made it even more evident. I honestly don't think this one is any better. The rear fender is just as weird looking as the elongated roof in ther first attempt. If they can't or won't do any better then I'm glad I have MPC based Barracudas. I'm at the point I think they'd be better to bury this beast; these 1/24 Mopars have never been proportioned quite right. They should have done a new one in 1/25 like the '69 Camaro, but now I doubt we'll ever see a good modern kit of a Barracuda. If this kit looks the same as what we've seen, I am not inspired whatsoever to buy it. I know how to fix it, but I choose not to. It's unnecessary.

AMT Taurus SHO, Revell Pontiac Grand Prix, AMT Ford Probe, MPC Dodge Daytona (had an optional V8)...those are the ones that come to mind easiest.

Something looks all wrong in the roof and top half of the rear fenders. Maybe it looks better in person. The Camaro looks dead-on to my eyes. 8) I imagine they'll have a Challenger at some point too.

I do believe Andy and Barney are lookin' to put someone in the tank overnight to sleep it off :roll: Talk about embarrassing... :oops:

Looks to me like they missed it again.

Looks great, the weathering is perfect 8)

Great pics 8) Tamiya GT1 wheels not quite right, not sure about others, most kit BBS rims have spokes that are much smaller than Challenge rims. Scale Auto Style did a set of large Challenge rims; he may have used a "white gas" treatment on one of his molds to enlarge it from a smaller size, as they're identical to some 18" Challenge rims, just larger.

Sorry, it's still not finished. I still have 2 or 3 parts to design for machining, then I can get back on the body. It's not that far from being ready, but the whole project keeps getting pushed further and further behind (we're already nearly a decade behind), and w/the sliding due date I don't get enough "shove" to get it back on the front burner, and w/my modelers ADD I'm always off in another direction. I work better with strict deadlines 8)

What, no martinis? :wink: Fun tack is available everywhere; it's for holding up posters on a wall w/o tacks. Michael's, Hobby Lobby, Ace Hardware, Wally World...it's everywhere.

I'm glad I can get the Revell AG kit for about what the Revell US kit will retail for I'll get another one next year in white plastic :wink: I actually think I'm going to pass on the Fujimi version, unless they do one w/the Challenge rims.

This was a bendy straw, I just cut it into several pieces. I hear McDonald's straws fit really tight w/o the need for fun tack. But since I don't eat there, I guess I'll stick w/the grocery store bendy straws.

Hi Chuck! These are pics I can use! Seems to be a staggering amount options as to how the interior can be equipped and detailed. I'll finally grok a Revell kit this Saturday. Saw the 1:1 599 at the auto show a couple weeks ago. I must say it was far better in person than in pics. Even in red, even w/pentagram wheels. My model will be customized not unlike my 612 Scaglietti. I certainly hope I figure out how to paint before then, considering the myriad of paint issues I had w/my Scag :roll: I've seen some other 599 GTB seats, some custom-ordered ones w/Daytona inserts, that looked really sharp 8) Speaking of Ferrari models, if I ever get an F430 GT I'd like to build one in blue like the one at Sebring, even if it wasn't the car involved in one of the finest laps of racing ever seen in this country.

Nice work. I can attest to the amount of time it takes to get 'em to look this good. I have to do a similar setup on my AMT Astro 1 (Corvair) showcar, now that I'm armed w/ pics of the 1:1 from Amelia I'm ready to do a double-dawg-dare build of my original kit. The kit only has lap belts, but the real car has a full harness. While time-consuming, I really love making these racing harnesses in models-I'd do this all day long before doing another BMF job!

The really fun way to do it, from my perspective at least, would be to recreate your demo and document it with photos, as I have done with my boring method :wink:

After reading about disasters associated w/decanting (poking holes into a pressurized cans :shock: ), and also reading about some convoluted and expensive (and unnecessary) ways to solve the problem, I discovered this solution. Recently someone somewhere turned me onto the simplest solution I've heard of yet to decant spray paint. It costs nearly nothing, it does not make a mess, and no tools beyond a pair of scissors or your X Acto knife are needed. No need to go the hardware store or clean up a disaster. Captions below photos. Ingredients: Spray Can Length of drinking straw Small piece of Fun Tack (poster tack) Suitable container Make an O-ring from the fun tack and surround the nozzle with it. Attach the straw to the fun-tack O-ring, adjust as necessary to make a good seal. Simply spray the paint into a container. The paint mostly runs into the container, splashing/mess is almost non-existant. Remove straw & fun tack, wipe nozzle clean, and the spray can is able to be used again. No need to poke holes into a spray can! Fun tack removed, nozzle wiped clean w/a paper towel. Fast, clean, easy; spray can is still usable. Decanted paint is ready to run through an airbrush. Let decanted paint sit open before covering the container, unless you immediately spray it through an airbrush. The propellant from the decanted paint is still there, if you cover the container it will pressurize and make a mess when you open it later. I have had zero problems w/immediately spraying the decanted paint through my airbrush, the propellant atomizes completely before hitting the model's surface. This is one of my all-time favorite KISS methods.

Okay, now that we've all laughed this off, I have some helpful input :wink: Why model builders come up with such crazy ideas like poking holes into pressurized spray cans is beyond me. I think a lot of modelers are hard-wired to do things the hardest way possible Bob's example is a very funny look into what will happen when things go horribly wrong. Which is something that is bound to happen when one does something so dangerous. Recently someone turned me onto the simplest solution I've heard of yet to decant spray paint. It costs nearly nothing, it does not make a mess, and no tools beyond a pair of scissors or your X Acto knife are needed. No need to go the hardware store or clean up a disaster. Captions below photos. Ingredients: Spray Can Length of drinking straw Small piece of Fun Tack (poster tack) Suitable container Make an O-ring from the fun tack and surround the nozzle with it. Attach the straw to the fun-tack O-ring, adjust as necessary to make a good seal. Simply spray the paint into a container. The paint mostly runs into the container, splashing/mess is almost non-existant. Remove straw & fun tack, wipe nozzle clean, and the spray can is able to be used again. No need to poke holes into a spray can! Fun tack removed, nozzle wiped clean w/a paper towel. Fast, clean, easy; spray can is still usable. Decanted paint is ready to run through an airbrush. Let decanted paint sit open before covering the container, unless you immediately spray it through an airbrush. The propellant from the decanted paint is still there, if you cover the container it will pressurize and make a mess when you open it later. I have had zero problems w/immediately spraying the decanted paint through my airbrush, the propellant atomizes completely before hitting the model's surface. This is one of my all-time favorite KISS methods.

Beautiful 8) I'm so glad to see MK kits evolve from amateur to amazing boxart. I almost cry when I see Revell boxart these days :roll: