Ace-Garageguy

Useless for technical data. I know how to look something up. Did you actually read what I said above? Yes, there's links to all their products, including the silly "airbrush". There's NO TECHNICAL DATA other than MSDs. And the MSD/TDS link on the page you posted doesn't even work...other than a redirect to get an APP for a smartphone for data that's not there. Useless. THIS is the useless page for the useless "airbrush". NO DATA BUT MSDs. http://www.testors.com/product-catalog/testors-brands/testors/airbrush/external-mix/#tab-1 Useless.

As well as the Corvette GS range, AM also did a spectacular few McLaren M8B kits in different liveries...

It's not a functionality issue. My machine and browser are close to state-of-the-art. It's a content issue. For instance, there is no real technical data, like recommended procedures, for any of Testors products, far as I can tell. I was trying to find some info for a board member here, and went looking for info on their product 282357, also known as 4038, Easy Snap and Spray Airbrush. The ONLY data (and utterly useless to a modeler trying to USE the thing) is a copy of the government-required Material Safety Data sheets. Same thing for trying to find actual recommended procedures for their 2-coat lacquers, their basecoat-clear product range, etc. In the real world, I'm used to dealing with paint manufacturers who post what's called TDSs...technical data sheets...that have complete information on how you actually USE a product, as well as the MSDs. Mixing ratios, cure times, etc. Testors, far as I can tell, doesn't provide that kind of big-boy information. Their site appears to be a catalog, not much more. Of course, it may be that I'm just too stupid to navigate the site and find what I'm after. Always a possibility.

Testors totally and completely useless website.

This video looks like it may be the same thing you have... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cehsVEEef7o EDIT. He shows the setup, but no spraying, and claims youtube made him take the demo video down. Huh? EDIT 2: Testors product support pages for this thing appear to be down, so you may be SOL. Experiment to see what works. EDIT 3: This is Testors product #4038, and their typically useless website appears to have ZERO technical information other than the govt- required Material Safety Data sheet. Good luck. Edit 4: I really got curious about this thing and did a quick search around the net, found a couple of "review" videos that show nothing other than opening the box and looking at the parts...and a kid with a cold who sniffles a lot...so once again, good luck.

1) To determine what size tires you need to represent farm-tractor tires in 1/25 scale, you first need to know the diameter of the real ones. Divide that number by 25, and you will have the diameter of a model tire that will look right, height-wise, for a tractor. Compare that to the diameters of whatever tires you're looking at, and you have your answer. BUT...The ratio of the diameter of a tractor tire to the rim is entirely different from a car or truck tire, so they're not really going to look right. You might be able to find some monster-truck tires that will get you closer, but you'll have to make custom wheels, probably. ERTL made a couple of 1/25 tractor kits that are pretty pricey now, and there are also die-cast tractors out there in 1/24 and 1/25. You may be able to find a broken die-cast tractor on Ebay that has what you need. EDIT: Here's a 1/25 scale Kubota for $20, tires, wheels and all. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Yonezawa-Diapet-1-25-Scale-Diecast-Kubota-Tractor-Made-in-Japan-/111879057638?hash=item1a0c82f0e6:g:Q2sAAOSwGotWnZzb 2) Never experienced that. 3) If they still rattle (and it will probably take some extended shaking to get the mixing ball broken loose), and IF the propellant hasn't leaked out, they MAY spray. The dip-tube at the bottom of old cans tends to clog with age, and it's not always possible to clear it. Even if you can, you may get spitting and bits of hard trash coming out. If you get the ball rattling, you can always decant the paint and use it in your airbrush. IF the can hasn't leaked any solvents, the paint itself should still be just fine.

Ummm...what do the instructions say? I'd be surprised if it will spray un-reduced paint right from the bottle, but if it WILL, it's a pretty worthwhile tool to have.

It didn't start snowing here until about 8:30 last night, but this time everyone had the good sense to leave work very early. The streets were empty by rush hour, and even though the main roads never really got bad, it's smarter for people who can't drive in snow to just stay home. By dawn, there wasn't a soul out, no traffic whatsoever, and the street in front of my house was a sheet of ice. The sun's been in and out for a couple of hours, and the ice has sublimated...not thawed, because the temp is still sub-freezing. The main roads are clear and dry. The bugger of it, for me, is that I'm living in a house as I renovate it, my insulation is still incomplete, and I don't have the central heat operational again yet. The wind is gusting up to 30MPH, it's 270 F outside, and I can't get it any warmer than 520 F in the house with all the propane burners running. I thought I'd finally get some model-bench time, but it's just too miserable friggin' cold. EDIT: Never mind. I was being a whiny baby. Just went outside to tie down a couple of tarps, and now it feels like balmy Bahama weather in here. Everything is relative. Think I'll put an electric space heater under the model bench and get to buildin'.

If you REALLY want close-ups that are in focus, what you need to look for is a camera that will allow you to select the aperture and focus manually, but that's getting into REAL camera territory, and more complexity than most modelers are interested in.

If you like cheap, it's hard to beat the old 4.1 megapixel Nikon Coolpix L4. It has a 3X (3-power) optical zoom and macro mode, plus a self-timer and flash. It will take an SD card, and runs on 2 AA batteries. Battery life is good, better than some cameras with higher resolution. New, it's around $245, but you can get them used for less than $20 on Ebay. I have one I bought years ago, new, and another one I bought recently that looks just like new, for about $25. You can easily load your photos into your computer through any USB port, but the best thing about it is the free web download of the Nikon ViewNX 2 photo-editing suite that's easy to use and very complete (and is compatible with Windows7 and later...which was an issue, because the PictureProject photo-editing software that comes with the camera only works up through XP) This is what it will do. (NOTE: Close work like this WILL require a tripod. I got the one I use for shooting models for $15 at a pawnshop. The nice thing about the timer and zoom is that you can compose the shot, then set the self-timer, and it will make the exposure without jiggling and ruining the focus)

It looks to me like 'metal-fatigue', which often manifests itself as a straight-line crack. I've seen it on full-frame vehicles, but not often. The most common cause is where a frame has been straightened after a collision. When a bend is pulled out without using correct procedures, the area 'work-hardens', and constant slight flexing from driving eventually leads to a crack. Another common cause (though this isn't at all common) is very stiff springs and/or shocks that are bottoming on their travel. WARNING: BEFORE DOING ANY WELDING, BE SURE THE BATTERY IS DISCONNECTED (TO PROTECT THE COMPUTER) AND THAT THE AIR-BAG IS DISCONNECTED. YES, IT CAN BE REPAIRED. Best thing to do is take the bed off to get good access to the frame rail, but a really competent body shop should be able to figure out a way to do it with the bed on, if cost is a real issue. The truck needs to be put on a frame machine and pulled / jacked back straight. WHILE IT'S ON THE FRAME MACHINE, HELD IN CORRECT POSITION, the area immediately adjacent to the crack needs to be ground off, free of any dirt or rust. The crack needs to be 'v-eed' out, and a clean, solid weld with good penetration run down it. Then, the weld gets ground flat. Finally, an area extending about 3" fore and aft of the crack needs to be cleaned off, and a plate of about 1/8" thickness welded over the area, wrapping at least under the lower part of the rail. YOU DO NOT WANT TO WELD A BIG OLD NASTY 1/4 INCH PLATE OVER IT. THAT MAKES THE REPAIRED AREA MUCH STIFFER THAN THE REST OF THE FRAME, AND IT WILL TEND TO CRACK AGAIN AT THE WELDS. A competent, correct repair should look like it's almost part of the original design, with no jagged edges or bubble-gum welds.

I did try acrylic gesso for whitewalls on vinyl tires (that inhibit drying of lacquer and enamel paints), and it worked. I'd think gesso, on plastic, might shrivel and alligator if topcoated with lacquer or enamel though. On the other hand, I HAVE used acrylic-urethane clear for cars as a final glosscoat over some of my paintings done with acrylic artists colors, and it worked beautifully. As suggested above, experiment.

All dem dead folks an' illegal aliens das votin', jus' makes me proud to be a Mericun.

Any luck at all, the entire city will cease to exist.

The IMC / Testors version really isn't too bad, and some guys on this forum have built exquisite models from it. The multi-part body is too challenging for some, and some of the details on the frame and elsewhere are kinda klunky. I've got a couple of IMC coupes in progress, one becoming a chopped '41 using the AMT woody nose. I'm definitely in for a couple of Revell's new one, and the hot-rod too. Probably have to spring for the Camaro too. I really like that year, and don't have any.

Click here: http://megadeluxe.com/interviews/interview-with-steve-moal-of-moal-coachbuilders

So...is the difference in wheelbase because of a difference in the 1:1 Bonneville and Ventura? There also appears to be a significant difference in the length of the decklids and quarter panels aft of the wheel-arch. Is this difference also on the 1:1 vehicles?

Here's Johnny... http://www.livescience.com/51664-stephen-hawking-elon-musk-ai-weapons.html But REALLY, robots just want to have fun... ...and drive cool cars...

There are also two headers on the board you may want to look at...pretty self-explanatory. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/forum/13-links-advertisers-and-web-sites/

I think the Phantom Corsair... would have been a better choice for the first Batmobile than this (which always made me think of a Barbie-goes-S&M kind of thing)...

Close but no cigar...

People in management positions who have poor management skills, and look for other people to blame when things don't go the way they'd WISH they would. Leaders should lead, and big boys should take their own whippings.

Hmmmm....Very interesting. How well does it conform to compound curves?

Just remember you DON'T want the 1930 Revell 1/24 kits. There are several releases and derivatives of the 1/24, 1930 coupe, woody and phaeton that have no Riley stuff. All the kits pictured above are 1/25, 1931.