Ace-Garageguy

Budget constraints and short time-to-posting don't allow, unfortunately, for posters to always do that. Editing a post for grammatical correctness and using spell-check take time, and everybody knows time is money. Spellig, gramor, sintax and other facets of Engligh should all be considered "close enough" if you can kinda get the point across.

Nice work. That body has some serious mold-registration issues, and it looks like you've done a fine job correcting them...far better than some folks who've been doing this a long time. Way to go.

Damm Miles...not many 'Merikuns woulda spotted the Dolomite. Well done.

Sometimes it'll work differently depending on the phase of the moon, your browser and browser settings, etc. I use the "img" option at the bottom of the "Photolinks" choices. Left click it and it turns yellow momentarily. That's the "copy" function. Or if it doesn't turn yellow, highlight it and do a manual "copy". Then go back to the page and post you're trying to put the picture on. Do "Ctrl v" which is also "paste". The "img" code will appear in the body of the post. When you enter "POST", the picture will be displayed.

Back in '13 I started doing a chopped, sectioned Caddy Kustom based on the Monogram '53 Chebby.

Man...I LIKE that old Eldo !

After doing much the same thing twice in about as many years, i started putting my bottle of liquid cement in a heavy old ceramic coffee mug that had the handle broken off. Took a while to train myself to always put the bottle back in the cup, but I haven't inadvertently knocked it over now for several years.

Another great looking model. On my gotta-have-several list too.

Another beautiful model from an era I never expected to see newly-tooled kits from again. Kudos to Moebius for making this happen, and for what looks to be a fine piece of work. Another one on my must-have-multiples list.

Absolutely stunning model. I'll be in line for several of every flavor, whether I ever build them or not. So great to see a model company doing such fine work bringing otherwise unobtainable subjects to market.

My deepest sympathy. No words are adequate.

You've answered your own question. I've been involved with various aspects of manufacturing, at various levels, throughout my 40+ year professional life. I've seen what happens to even the best intentions. ANY less-than-optimum product brought to market is so because of a combination of all the above, in varying degrees. And ONE large problem in today's business world is the mistaken belief that it's too "hard" for an individual or really REALLY small team to get a job done. The more fingers you have in a pie, the more "specialization" you have to rely on, the more "outsourcing" you choose to use...the more opportunities there are for problems to creep in and to fall through the cracks. There simply IS NO OTHER REASON than the ones you've listed above, and anyone who says otherwise is making excuses.

http://www.hemmings.com/classifieds/carsforsale/sprint/unspecified/1696771.html?refer=blog

I'll answer for him. '35 Duesenberg SJ Town Car by Bohman & Schwartz http://blog.hemmings.com/index.php/2014/12/04/1935-duesenberg-sj-town-cabriolet-reportedly-designed-for-mae-west-heads-to-auction/

After the 5-window, the 3-window may be a little disappointing. It's a fine kit, but has nowhere near the number of optional bits as the later kit.

And insanely overcomplicated for no particular reason. Seems like the Germans jumped off the unnecessary-complication cliff decades ago, and the rest of the car world has made the Lemming-like plunge right along after them. KISS is dead, along with any concept of functional design elegance.

Ummm...Photoshop?

This is another one-of-a-kind car that's instantly recognizable in some circles, and I've seen it before. Rolled the dice it hadn't been modeled (plus the panel fit and gloss on the paint just look too too good...) Only things I really don't like on this car are the landau irons, which have absolutely no place on a non-convertible (or at least a fake convertible), and the hiccup in the body line at the cockpit. Pretty stunning piece anyway though. Auburn-like nose...

Hmmm. I have a '92 Chevy truck with power windows, 280,000 miles, and they both work like new. So do the ones in the '89 Celica convertible with 180,000 miles. Geez...I DO wish I had a newer vehicle so I had to routinely replace all that "better designed" stuff. I feel SO left out.

Excellent.

When you reduce your color to spray, don't reduce ALL of it. Just do as much as you think you'll need for the job. If you over-thin it, just add a few drops of unreduced material to thicken it up a bit. You'll soon get the hang of how much reduction is necessary, and you will be able to do it by "feel" and what the reduced material sounds like as you stir it, and even how fast it drips off the mixing stick. Or, you can get specific "viscosity cups". Percentages are really easy to duplicate over and over if you take a little time to make yourself some graduated mixing sticks, too. I typically make them from Starbucks stir-sticks, when I'm mixing very small quantities of 1:1-intended materials for model use.

Semantics...word definitions, and understanding of word definitions. Once a candy reaches its ceiling color, it's not going to get "darker" any more than putting on more coats of bright red is going to make dark red. Excessive coats of candies simply become less and less transparent, (more "muddy") eventually hiding the reflective quality of the basecoat entirely. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ "Color holdout" is generally understood by paint manufacturers to be a quality of primers, surfacers, or sealers that go under the color, and is a measure of how well a particular undercoat keeps the topcoat from "dying-back" or losing it's gloss as it "shrinks into" the undercoat, or loses its solvents into the undercoat...which produces a "flattening" or loss-of-gloss of the surface. Paint "dieback" is prevented by using undercoats that are very resistant to the solvents contained in the topcoats. Color "dieback" (poor "color holdout" under this definition) can happen almost immediately or over a considerable period off time, depending on a variety of factors.

Building Model Cars 101: STEP ONE: Determine whether or not you're smarter than an inanimate collection of plastic bits. STEP TWO: If the answer is "yes, I'm smarter than plastic", build the model, doing what's necessary to put it together, fitting and correcting things as you go if required If the answer is "no, I'm not smarter than plastic", give up, declare the model unbuildable, and complain about it.