Ace-Garageguy

Then YOU pay for the website to be made compatible with IE...which is crapp. Any reasonably intelligent 8-year-old can install Firefox or Chrome.

This is the truth, and a very real and important truth that the knee-jerk electric-car-crowd seem to ignore. But the Tesla has also convincingly demonstrated that a very stylish, high-quality and high-performance vehicle is possible with electric power. Musk is definitely on the right track with his interlinking projects, like Solar City, that aim to take the generation of electricity and distribute it over many rooftops. Guess the Hellcat driver turned off his traction-control, and red-lighted to boot. Would have been an interesting race.

Pizza recipe sounds great. I've been tending to use more and more too, but not to the levels you have attained. I'll have to watch it. Don't need a toxic-garlic-reaction.

Good luck with your project Mickael, and keep us posted on your progress. Welcome to the forum, too.

Beautiful.

You have the right idea, but to get a square and symmetrical frame at the end, you need accurate cuts. To get accurate cuts you need accurate lines to follow. Here's a tutorial I did on the subject, and it's the same way I zee frames on the very expensive full-scale traditional rods I build in real life. http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=70728 Of course, if you zee a frame, it won't fit the rear floor any more. You'll have to modify the floor. You have the right idea on chopping the roof, but again...accuracy counts. Cut very carefully.

Couple more minor points...first to address Greg's original question: "Here's a thread... http://www.modelcars...showtopic=97788 using photos to enhance their answers... Why not include a picture to enhance your message and really get the point across?" It's very easy to upload photos here sourced on the web, to illustrate technical answers. Occasionally it can be a little sticky, but there is always a way. Also, photos uploaded from computers, phones etc. are very often not visible to visitors, or even members who aren't logged in. People thinking they're not getting a lot of feedback on their work may want to remember this.

Excellent. Here's another fossil.

Yeah, that $2.99 a month for almost unlimited P'bucket storage is pretty hefty. What can you buy for $3 these days? It's what, about half a six-pack?

I'm pleased I wasn't this sick a couple weeks ago when the temps were in the teens, and my WIP house-heating system couldn't get it more than about 50 degrees in here.

All this talk about cheating and balls... I've always just assumed that cheats have no balls.

You can put a "remote mounted" booster anywhere in the car it will fit. What you have is a straight mechanical / hydraulic master cylinder hooked to the brake pedal. From there, a hydraulic line runs to another hydraulic master cylinder which is attached to the booster. The second master cylinder on the remote booster simply transfers hydraulic pressure from the pedal. Like zo. There are several variations on this theme, and they were fairly common on British and US vehicles at one time. Here's one mounted sideways in the engine bay, in a place there's room for it, far from the pedal / primary master cylinder.

A real shame about this, as I've seen his products and was very impressed by the detail and what must be exceptional quality of the masters. Guess I should have bought some at the show in November. Health issues can be a very real drag on our abilities, especially as we age. I've had my share, and they've cost me a lot of business. Communication is key however. If clients are kept in the loop and continuously updated, with realistic projections as to when things might shake out, or refunds offered, there's often no long term damage done to one's credibility.

I was under the perhaps-mistaken impression that the blue ones were Goodyears, as Goodyear had a lock on the name "Blue Streak" for several of its lines.

Woke up at 4:00 this AM with the full-blown flu. Had been feeling unusually tired for a couple days, started getting a headache, body aches and a cough early yesterday afternoon, but worked through the end of the day. Just feel too horrible to work at all now. Think I'll go back to bed and try to sleep.

Agreed 100%.

All he needs is a 12-cylinder, dual-coil distributor in the same location as the stock distributor. Easy. Or, if he wants to be esoteric, he could put 2, six-cylinder distributors side-by-side, on a common oval gear housing, on top of a distributor driveshaft, again in the same location as stock. Think of the housing as a little transfer case. One gear in the middle on the top of the original distributor drive shaft, and two gears on either side of it, driving two short-shaft distributors on top. The gear arrangement spaces the distributors far enough apart, and makes them both turn in the original direction. Split-timing would be easy, as all you'd have to do to change the timing on one set of plugs would be to rotate an entire distributor. With a single distributor, you'd have to remove the cap, and rotate one point plate relative to the other one. Doable, but a little fiddly. Either way would work in 1:1. Something like this...but perched on top of the original distributor location and driven from the bottom, rather than being driven by a shaft from the timing chain, as this setup is. Porsche used two distributors on the 4-cam 4-cylinder engines, sometimes like this... '28 Chevy, with 2 distributors... The point is, come up with something that looks plausible, and there you go.

Really perfect lines.

Here's another old one. Hint: model cars are used as stand-ins for the real ones in one scene.

Kool!! I never noticed. Have a couple on the shelf and will definitely have to find a use for one. Thanks.

I'm more critical of my own work than anybody else is going to be, believe me. I usually point out the flaws myself first, just so I don't have to hear or read them. Simplifies everything. What I'm not too keen on is folks who'll start off on their particular taste in color, or some other purely personal-preference-style point. If you would have painted it red with purple seats, by all means, paint YOURS red with purple seats. Then there are the ones who tell me I did something wrong when the "wrong" was intentional and explained in the thread text, and if they had bothered to actually READ the thread instead of just looking at the pictures and mouthing off, they'd already have their answer. On the other hand, if someone has an idea as to how I can improve my model building, something they think might be appropriate to add or delete on a WIP, or catches a technical error, then, by all means, let me know.

I wouldn't paint a real car with a brush (I have slopped on some Rustoleum primer that way, to protect cars sitting outside) and I wouldn't paint a model with a brush. Back in the days of carriages, sure, they brush-painted stuff and rubbed it down. Yes, you CAN get a beautiful finish, but why bother? Kinda like using two cans and a string instead of the cellphone, you know?

Somewhere along the line, someone DID reverse-engineer the AMT kit to produce the Lindberg tooling (and as Casey says, the tale is it was Palmer). If you compare the parts VERY carefully, you'll see subtle differences that prove beyond doubt that the two kits do not come from the same molds. Very similar yes...identical, no.

There's a thread on here started a few weeks ago showing some dual-plug Ford flathead heads., and the plug placement is pretty obvious. Flatheads flow pretty poorly in general, and flame travel is poor. Dual-plugs could achieve more complete combustion, and add a little power. Porsche used a 12-plug-terminal cap for its dual-plug flat-six engines, with 2 coil inputs. This distributor cap is for a 12 cylinder '31 Caddy, and is also set up for 2 coil inputs. An old 12-cylinder distributor like this could be modified by a very competent hot-rodder to fire a dual-plug head on your Hudson.

Here's a simple schematic, for a real car. DC circuitry is DC circuitry, whether real or model. Delete the LS1 "dome light" and one of the switches. The "car battery" will of course be the AAA battery pack, or whatever you decide to use. L1, L2, L3 and L4 are LEDs wired in parallel. Your LEDs may require resistors, or may have them already attached.