Ace-Garageguy

Dinosaurs they may be, but to those of us who love the sound of a V8 engine working up and down through the gears, there's nothing sweeter... (no, this isn't me)

What accounts for that great acceleration has to do with the fact that electric motors make peak torque at "stall", which simply means at zero RPM, when the vehicle is trying to accelerate from a dead stop. The motor doesn't have to "rev up" to get to its torque-peak like an IC engine does, so it's at maximum-power as soon as the throttle pedal is floored.The Tesla does away with the transmission, as it simply takes less power to maintain speed than it does to accelerate, and accelerating from standstill takes the most. The motor is capable of 14,000 RPM or so, and its speed increases as vehicle speed increases. In most cars, a correctly designed transmission will hold the engine or motor as close to peak-torque as possible as acceleration continues. This is why an "infinitely variable" gearbox could become a big plus (or not...I'm sure they've done the numbers to see if the added complication is worth a possible range increase) eliminating the "steps" as a normal trans changes gear ratios, and could possibly allow the Tesla motor to stay closer to its torque-peak at all speeds. Naturally though, rapid acceleration puts a massive drain on the charge in the batteries, and vastly reduces the range of the vehicle between charging cycles (just as flooring your big-inch gas-hog on every start can take your fuel mileage into low single digits). The point is that, as attractive as electric propulsion seems on the surface, there's no magic-bullet free lunch. PS. I'd like the see the same crew's reactions to a full-tilt launch of a 289 FIA Cobra. To this day, it's still the most "scary" thing I've ever had the pleasure to drive.

Big smile here. Love seeing an old kit built up simply, for no-stress fun, and looking so good. I think I may have to try doing one like this.

Yes, I believe the cat was the pet of the guy who built the copter, and it was hit by a car. Cat's name was apparently Orville...appropriate, eh?

I think you may be painting with a little too broad a brush there, Tom...

Thanks for the Weld-On #4 heads-up. Didn't think of trying Grainger. Last time I tried to get a small can from the local plastic sign fab guys, they wanted $30 haz-mat packing fee plus shipping. EDIT: I'm not finding it on Grainger yet, but Amazon has it for only $4.90 shipping.

Couple points about shooting the Testors Metalizers. 1) Lots of guys tend to shoot them too dry and orange-peely. That actually works very well if you want a rough-cast appearance, but not for polished. To get a good simulation of polished metal, you need to shoot the stuff wet, so it flows and self-levels. I find 3 coats gives me enough to polish on fairly aggressively without burning through edges. 2) You also want to give it plenty of time to dry, both between coats and before you polish. All day is usually about right, after the last coat. 3) I haven't shot it over resin parts, but on styrene, I really recommend a thorough scrubbing with Comet or other abrasive cleaner, a toothbrush, and hot water. This removes surface contaminants that can make the stuff fisheye, and also scuffs the surface nicely for better adhesion. 4) You want to use something soft to polish it. I've had the best results with the inside surface of old fleece like sweatshirts. 5) It's a very thin-bodied material, and doesn't fill imperfections at all. Any tiny flaw or pinhole or seam in your part will look worse when it's been Metalized.

Once you've established the correct forward voltage across whatever LEDs you are using, the practical solution to determining the amount of dimming-effect you'll get with a load resistor on the running light power supply side is experimentation. Too much drop across your resistor and your LEDs won't light up at all. Not enough drop and there won't be enough difference in intensity of the light output. I usually cut the prefboard with a cutoff wheel (full size or Dremel) and finish trim with right-angle die-grinders, etc. Makes nice clean edges. This circuit uses multiple 220 ohm, 1/4 watt resistors to maintain the correct forward voltage across the LEDs and one more to provide the dimming effect in the tail-light power supply. Unfortunately, the specifics of the LEDs aren't shown. As no two custom installations are going to be identical as far as number and type of LEDs, trial and error is going to be your best bet. Used to be a little easier to do this stuff when Radio Shack actually sold electronic components, but all of my local ones are just toy and phone stores now.

Well, I'd rather be stuffed and flown around as an old-man-copter than put in a hole in the ground to rot. Guess it's all in your particular point of view.

Please don't anybody get all outraged. I love animals, especially cats, but you have to admit this is just plain funny.

Here's a bizarro ride with another Allison, from 1954. The "Cramer Comet" was obviously influenced stylistically by Harley Earl's LeSabre concept car. I have black and white article on it in an old "little pages" mag.

Overall, I like it too...with reservations. The hood definitely works for me...but at the same time, the whole presentation screams "overwrought" and yes, somewhat "juvenile".

Based on the output of engines having similar technology (the Liberty 1650 cu.in. V12 from around 1918 made about 400HP), my guess is that the engine in this car would produce 200-250HP, tops.

Good one, Art ! The engine was apparently made by Wisconsin Airplane. Here's a shot of the intake side.

Thanks for the concern, guys. Didn't get a flu shot, never do, and usually don't get sick at all but for a little achy-tiredness and sniffles sometimes. This one is kicking my butt. I have a friend who gets pretty intense if she doesn't hear from me at least once a day, so the likelihood of being found during the spring melt, stinking up the place, is minimal. I'm running space-heaters where possible, but there are areas of the house that have virtually no insulation after finding and removing a mess of toxic-mold infested asbestos. The previous owner installed a heat-pump system, but it's not much good when the temps drop below freezing, and no good whatsoever since copper thieves stole all the wiring and lines.

Yup. Steve's right. And if you want a higher-polished look than you get with the Metalizer, try Alclad.

It's been maybe 3 years since I made the things, and all the info is in the shop notes, which are in the shop. Yes, they are combo tail / brake lights. Probably used white 20mA or 30mA 5mm leds...definitely white. I started by copying the circuit on a commercial set we had in stock for another car, modifying as I went. Probably kinda overkill, but I had custom PC boards (etched, really) made by a friend, rather than using perf-board. The whole mess went through several iterations until I was entirely happy with the look and brightness. I don't recall all the specs on the bits, but I do remember I used diodes to keep the tailights / brakelights from backfeeding through each other. Also used a clear diffuser that masks the individual LEDs and makes the old lenses glow evenly...and bright. The car owner was very insistent that he wanted lights as bright as LEDs that didn't look like LEDs.

Yes, that doesn't sound all that good. But the role of the Navy in wartime, and the place in it of particular vessels, has been changing and endlessly debated for decades. If she is indeed ultimately intended to be a platform for a rail-gun that can hammer shore positions while standing off 100 miles or so (the 16-inch guns of an Iowa-class battleship had an effective range of around 20 miles), she may yet prove to have a place in combat. Of course, 100 miles isn't really very far if the adversary has fighter-bombers capable of mach+ speeds...or missiles. Remember that fighting vessels of WW II rarely fought alone, and one ship wasn't expected to be able to do everything. I wonder who the theoretical enemy is here. More... http://thediplomat.com/2013/11/capt-kirk-takes-command-of-the-uss-zumwalt/

I made a set of LED taillights (using the OEM glass "Plymouth" lettered lenses) for the 354 Hemi-powered '33 Plymouth we're building. You're right about the skills developed during model building transferring over to detail work on the 1:1s. LEDs and resistors are assembled on a custom board, a red lucite inter-lens intensifies the color (the old red-glass Plymouth lenses are a little weak, color-wise).

Welcome to the forum, Dan. This topic has been discussed at length several times. Click this link to see a bunch of threads on it. https://www.google.com/search?q=site%3Amodelcarsmag.com+glue&oq=site%3Amodelcarsmag.com++glue&aqs=chrome..69i57j69i58.5745j0j8&sourceid=chrome&es_sm=93&ie=UTF-8 This particular thread has some excellent advice.... http://www.modelcarsmag.com/forums/?showtopic=53800

All that broad flat side does kinda make one wonder just how such a low claimed radar profile is achieved. Seems like a big ol' barn door would light up like a big ol' barn door. That must be the answer.

Yes, the Minilite-look suits the car well, especially in BRG. I put one together for a client back in the mid-'80s with 3 sidedraft 40mm Webers, a cam, headers and a 5-speed box. Also lowered, with urethane suspension bushings all around. Absolutely wonderful car.

I'm usually not much for complaining about health problems, but I've got the worst case of flu I can remember. I'm sicker than I've been since I've been an adult. Thought I was getting better this AM, but I'm slipping backwards again. Man, this bites. Deadlines looming, commitments, etc. Can't sleep for any length of time with the fever, and staying in bed puts my back out anyway. Can't get the indoor temperature above 55, have to haul water in from outside, and no hot shower (renovations ongoing but stalled). Really bites.

Collecting Beanie Babies would be good.